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Good for a laugh

Shoebox, your gun plumber is obviously covering for his lack of skill:) I personally like the 36" pipe length myself. After all, if you're going to be out shooting all day you don't want to wear yourself out!!!

I'm with you on flat primers on the boltface. The secret is to keep cramming enuf go juice in the brass until the primers just fall out when you pound the bolt open with your hammer to eject the case. And Wallah! You've just eliminated the tedium of having to remove those pesky primers. The brass manufacturers have been making & selling me some really defective stuff. The darn things don't want to keep the primers in after the first load. Luckily I one upped em. See you start with a small primer case & when it stretches out after the first firing, you can pound in the large one for the next reload thereby doubling your brass life.

Always happy to share my super duper long-range secrets.
Stork
 
Shoebox, your gun plumber is obviously covering for his lack of skill:) I personally like the 36" pipe length myself. After all, if you're going to be out shooting all day you don't want to wear yourself out!!!

I'm with you on flat primers on the boltface. The secret is to keep cramming enuf go juice in the brass until the primers just fall out when you pound the bolt open with your hammer to eject the case. And Wallah! You've just eliminated the tedium of having to remove those pesky primers. The brass manufacturers have been making & selling me some really defective stuff. The darn things don't want to keep the primers in after the first load. Luckily I one upped em. See you start with a small primer case & when it stretches out after the first firing, you can pound in the large one for the next reload thereby doubling your brass life.

Always happy to share my super duper long-range secrets.
Stork
Small pockets, man so obvious, just goes to show that someone can always point you in the right direction !!
How did you get around the rim separation problem, I'm still pushing the shell out with heavy gauge wire,
The more I think about it, that smith didn't have a clue, I should go in competition with, I mean I've got a grinder and a file and tape measure, I mean how hard can it be?
Talking to you has really given me some insight !! It won't take long for the word to get around, about the quality of workmanship !!!
Stork I don't know how to thank you !
Tell you what send me your favorite rifle
And I'll do a real job on it, I'll use it as a statement project, and you will have the distinction of owning the first every SHOEBOX special system
No no don't thank now wait till you get your rifle back
Think I'll do a job on snert & Mr majestic favorites too,
I'll sent postal address soon !!
 
How did you get around the rim separation problem, I'm still pushing the shell out with heavy gauge wire,

I've found you have to use the GOOD Duct Tape. You know, the 4 rolls for a dollar quality, not the cheap chinsey 10 rolls for a dollar stuff. don't feel discouraged, we're all here to learn more gooder.

I'll be sure to send you my best shooting rifle, so you can make it even better. Do you want me to include some of my custom ammo too?
Stork
 
I've found you have to use the GOOD Duct Tape. You know, the 4 rolls for a dollar quality, not the cheap chinsey 10 rolls for a dollar stuff. don't feel discouraged, we're all here to learn more gooder.

I'll be sure to send you my best shooting rifle, so you can make it even better. Do you want me to include some of my custom ammo too?
Stork
Don't worry about ammo I'll make up some sweet loads so you can compare !
 
So I've been learning a lot from you guys. After a couple shots I found duck tape wouldn't hold my primers in my Hornet Lott 460 so low and behold I found large magnums to fit perfect after a coupe shots. Some needed a little super glue, the thick kind, but it works well. Or have I been using the wrong duck tape?
 
So I've been learning a lot from you guys. After a couple shots I found duck tape wouldn't hold my primers in my Hornet Lott 460 so low and behold I found large magnums to fit perfect after a coupe shots. Some needed a little super glue, the thick kind, but it works well. Or have I been using the wrong duck tape?
Be careful with the super glue it can cause pressure spikes
In a pinch I use devcon 10110 steel putty a little bit goes a long way
I'll have to check my duck tape I'm not shore what grade it is ,thanks for the heads up
 
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Be careful with the super glue it can cause pressure spikes
In a pinch I use devcon 10110 steel putty a little bit goes a long way
I'll have to check my duck tape I'm not shore what grade it is ,thanks for the heads up
I tried some of that steel epoxy stuff. Must have been on sale, it came with 2 containers. After I finished off 1 container I tried the other. Neither worked very well, that stuff is over rated.
 
Yea and until you get the super glue problem taken care of, don't go to the corner market to get some beers. I threw on my long over coat to try and keep it hid but they still noticed. Let's just say it was a rough day and leave it at that...
 
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I do Need to warn you guys about using the super glue on your primers. Don't go pee if you get it on your hands. Don't ask. It should come with a warning on that.
I had a similar problem. However, I must be slower than you on the run to the bath. By the time I got there my fingers were stuck in a clump. I went, but it was a damp day thereafter.
 
So I've been learning a lot from you guys. After a couple shots I found duck tape wouldn't hold my primers in my Hornet Lott 460 so low and behold I found large magnums to fit perfect after a coupe shots. Some needed a little super glue, the thick kind, but it works well. Or have I been using the wrong duck tape?
Welcome to the best expurt thread on the entire web SWD! Glad to have you. we are going viral!
 
Welcome to the best expurt thread on the entire web SWD! Glad to have you. we are going viral!
This is great. Really cutting edge stuff, here.

Hey, Snert - try musket caps. They'll fit even tighter and those wingy things pick right out of the way.
 
On a different note, can anyone tell me why these guys in the for sale forum keep trying to sell barrels that shoot blanks? Really, who the heck would buy a Bartlein blank barrel when a piece of conduit will fire a blank just fine? Must be a bunch of guys from California or something, where they can't have a real gun. Sheesh...
 
Small pockets, man so obvious, just goes to show that someone can always point you in the right direction !!
How did you get around the rim separation problem, I'm still pushing the shell out with heavy gauge wire,
The more I think about it, that smith didn't have a clue, I should go in competition with, I mean I've got a grinder and a file and tape measure, I mean how hard can it be?
Talking to you has really given me some insight !! It won't take long for the word to get around, about the quality of workmanship !!!
Stork I don't know how to thank you !
Tell you what send me your favorite rifle
And I'll do a real job on it, I'll use it as a statement project, and you will have the distinction of owning the first every SHOEBOX special system
No no don't thank now wait till you get your rifle back
Think I'll do a job on snert & Mr majestic favorites too,
I'll sent postal address soon !!
Pure genius. I think Lapua is ahead of it by making that small pocket brass. that way you start small, fire it once, use LR primer next time, then a percussion cap then a musket cap and you may see 4-5 firings before it is toast. Now I can see the sense in paying all that money for brass. I have found it thicker in the web too. More surface area to have the JB weld adhere to when putting them together after seperation. Darn good stuff that Lapua.
 
See, this is why these threads are so valuable! Not being a black powder shooter, I would never have thought of percussion and musket caps. Such a wealth of data. I have to get a paper clip so I can mark this thread.
Stork
 
Weigh loads I'm a little confused , do you mean weigh the round after you compress as much powder as possible,
Or am i missing something ?
I've never found a primer flat on the boltface, so I know it's not over loaded!
Most of the time I can't Even find the primer's which is further evidence of good clean load development

Bolt lugs
That something I would like to learn more about, I don't think I had a very good smith every time I fire a shot the bolt gets jammed, so I took it back to my smith, he said something about being "compression welded " but I knew he was covering up, so now I just carry 18" 3/4 pipe slide over bolt handle, some times it still really hard to open,
Any ideas ?
Maybe i need a better lube ?
Remember I don't want to do anything that could be considered unsafe !!

Well I have often used a Harry's powder thrower. But I got tired of picking up flakes from the table so now I just use a spoon. And I weigh my powder before using it. You would be surprised how many times there is less than a pound in one of those new cans they sell. I caught on when the can said 1 pound but was not full. After weighing it, you can determine if it is from the same lot as the others. Almost all lots will weigh the same. i try to stick with same lots. I try not to compress my powder since using a hammer tends to flatten my thumb too often, but Shoebox is working on a work-around. And yes, i weigh before I get it all crammed in there, on a balance beam. When loading 224 calibers I just offset my scale on one side with several 224 bullets...and if you mix 35, 40, 45, 48 (hard to get) 50, 52, 53 and 55 grain bullets, you can weigh a similar amount of powder on the other side of the beam. Now I know most 223 loads in the manual call for about 23 grains.( I hate the 223 for the record, but this is just an example) I start at 25. That makes it easier math. Just put two 50 grainer bullets on one side, fill the other side with powder till it balances, then use the spoon to divide that powder into four parts and you have enough for four loads of 25 each. Simple, and the averaging works out to more accurate throws.

In regard to bolt lugs, I am somewhat disconcerted about the number of lugs I am seeing on bolts. Two on the 700, Savages, etc, three on the Wetherbys, six on the old 788, nine on the 581 converted to 460 Hornet Lott Improved...where does it end? what ever happened to one simple lug like the first and best bolt guns? Then there was no issue of getting them even. One is even in my math. I think a lot of our problems can be solved by going back to one lug and a feeler gauge, just like FGuffy has so often suggested.
In regard to lube,I use one beaten egg and some tabasco...seems to lube up everything well for me. Sure moves things in a hurry, especially when followed by black coffee before 530AM. But that is moving toward medical advice, and this is a shooting forum, so Shoe, lets keep it to stuff shooting related huh? (but fear not, eggs, coffee and tabasco are not dangerous, just effective for when things are jammed up...pure natural and organic) Not sure why you tossed in that question, but must have been a pressing matter.
 
I went down in the shop and tried the musket cap idea. It works real well. I only had 2 caps so I cut the center out of my kids toy cap gun caps to reload them. They're hard to pick up with all this damn super glue residue all over my fingers. Think I'll try match heads next time.

I think your on to sumpthin with 1 lug but be careful if you super glue them feeler gauges to the lug, that stuff is dangerous. Don't ask.
 
I went down in the shop and tried the musket cap idea. It works real well. I only had 2 caps so I cut the center out of my kids toy cap gun caps to reload them. They're hard to pick up with all this damn super glue residue all over my fingers. Think I'll try match heads next time.

I think your on to sumpthin with 1 lug but be careful if you super glue them feeler gauges to the lug, that stuff is dangerous. Don't ask.

whoa whoa whaoa!!! Matchheads are dangerous! Stop and think a bit my friend! First there is sulphur in them and that is corrosive. Secondly, there is not nearly enough quality control. One head is bigger than the others, and half the time the dang things don't light, or they burn fast right down to the fingers, or they frizzle out. We are looking for concentration here, and reliability. Some experiments are worth trying but you have to consider the materials! I strongly advise against using matchheads, because getting the sandpaper grit to adhere to the end of the firing pin with superglue will result in having a bolt and a matchhead attached to your thumb. Stick with the tried and true cap gun cap. We all know from experience those work in a pinch. After all, who ever failed to have one fire when the robber escaped from jail when your little sister (jailer) was playing Barbie and looked the other way? Never! So there.

sorry about the rant, but sometimes some things should just not be tried. We have to think of those who are less nuanced in the art of reloading.

BUT, I do have to say your musket cap idea is bordering on innovative and downright genius. Until I tried it, I would never have recognized the conveneience of having those little wings left over to grab hold of when plucking the remains of the cap out of the action. On that one SWD, you hit the nail on the head, or in this case, the cap in the nipple!
 

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