Going with Air

[MikeT49]

One more thing that I noticed in the picture was the bottle of husky compressor oil. These low pressure compressor oils are known to have a low flash point and can detonate in the second stage of the high pressure compressor. Detonation from oil vapors getting into second stage cylinder of these compressors is one of the reasons these compressors fail. There is a lot of information out there on using the proper high pressure compressor oils. (https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/compressor-oil-which-is-the-correct-one.1211334/).

What is this Husky oil of which you speak? I use the Kobalt oil that is pictured. Why do I use that oil? Well, I sure as hell didn't rely on internet gurus. For background info: I'm a retired nuc engineering tech, my bud is a retired nuclear engineer. We had been looking for reasonably priced HP compressors for quite a while. Not interested in the "Shoe box" compressors that were available then. Way too much hassle and constant maintenance. About 3 years ago, I noticed the Yong Hengs on eBay. $240 at that time. At that price we were both willing to get one. Early in 2020 my bud got his compressor in. He then commenced to research what oil to use. He did not refer to any internet gurus. He actually did the research. What he came up with is the Kobalt. Did I mention my bud is a very competent engineer? Fast forward to today. I have run my compressor hard for over 2 years. I've got four tanks and I fill my neighbors tank. I've done at least 150 tank fills. The oil in my crankcase stays clear (ie no combustion products). It stays so clear, it's very hard to see in the viewing window. I ran it for a year and a half, before I noticed the oil start to discolor. Over that time the oil level only dropped about 1/16". When I run equipment, I pay attention. The manufacturer calls for a max temp of 75C. I run my unit to never exceed 60C. I recently cleaned the dinker filter that I use on the outlet of my tanks to fill guns. After thousands of gun fills it was remarkably clean. The first cotton wafer was discolored a yellowish brown. The next one was slightly discolored on the side abutting the first wafer. The rest were white and all were dry. I build airguns. I have taken guns apart that I have been filling using my methods. After I get the components out of the main tube, I roll a paper towel into a cylinder and push it thru the main tube and check for contamination from oil or rust from water. I have not seen anything yet that worries me.

 

[Mikemontminy]

Sorry if I offended you. I did mislabel the Kobalt oil as Husky oil but still consider them in the same category. They were both designed for lubrication in the crankcase of a single stage compressor. Sounds like your on top of your game as far as building guns from parts and getting to shoot them more then I can find time to. I did try to research the Kobalt oil but didn’t come up with much. Was actually looking for flash point of the oil. I would like to add a little info that I found about 2 stage HPA compressors that may help others In making a devision on which oils to use.

A 2 stage hpa compressor has to have a very high compression ratio in order to produce 4500 psi. Where a 3 or 4 stage compressor can cut the compression ratio drastically,while still producing 4500psi.

All high compression 2 stage compressors (like a YH) are very prone to detonation of the oil blow-by. All from the very high heat of compression developed by the very high compression ratio. This heat of compression, in the compression chamber/valves can not be controlled by the water cooling jackets/circuits currently being used in this type compressor. Realistically, no amount of external cooling can change the physics of a 2 stage hpa compressor compression ratio. Or the problems created by the deto/carbon build up.

This detonated oil blow by causes a carbon build up under the valves, eventually causing the valves to be held slightly open by the carbon deposits from the combustion/detonation of this oil blow by. This carbon build up/valve leak problem ,will develop slowly over time and eventually cause slow fill times till compressor won't reach high pressure...

This makes it even more important to use a high flash point/low detonation hpa oil in a 2 stage HPA compressor. And even with the best HPA comp oils, a 2 stage compressor will eventually have carbon build up. but a proper oil will slow this way down...

All continuous duty HPA compressor oil has a very high flash point, creating low carbon build up. The correct HPA compressor oil has a very high detonation threshold.

Bauer HPA compressor oil has the correct properties. When used in its compressors, does not usually allow detonation from its blow-by, as do most all quality continuous duty HPA compressor oils. Low pressure air compressor oils do not have or need this quality.

Also very important to not over fill the sump of a Hpa compressor, especially 1 that holds very little oil, better to be slightly low than high. Over filling causes excess blow-by. Bad enough blow-by detonation can cause rod/bearing failure, and make oil dark/dirty way before its time. If you have lots of oil residue in your filters/driers, might want to check your oil level and compressor internals for wear, allowing excess blow-by...

 

[Ledd Slinger]

The compressor I got is air cooled and doesn’t require any oil. Decided to keep it simple. Good so far!

 

[MikeT49]

Please read what I said about monitoring oil level and coloration, etc.

 

[dantiff2]

I have run my compressor hard for over 2 years. I've got four tanks and I fill my neighbors tank. I've done at least 150 tank fills. The oil in my crankcase stays clear (ie no combustion products). It stays so clear, it's very hard to see in the viewing window. I ran it for a year and a half, before I noticed the oil start to discolor. Over that time the oil level only dropped about 1/16".

Mike, have you had any issues at all with these units? Are there any orings or valve seats that need maintenance?
Dan

 

[MikeT49]

Mike, have you had any issues at all with these units? Are there any orings or valve seats that need maintenance?
Dan

I've had a pressure gauge puke. Probably operator error, the dog won't fess up, so maybe me. Not a lot to maintain. Use a high quality ISO VG46 or AW46 (or equal) oil as recommended by the manufacturer. Monitor oil level and color. The compressor is splash lubricated, oil level should be in the middle of the viewing glass Both high and low are bad news. Change oil every 50 hours or sooner if it starts to darken. I change the inlet air filter when I change the oil. Check the crankcase plastic PCV fitting to make sure it is not plugged every oil change. Keep a close eye on the temperature. I keep it under 60C, manufacturer says 60C to 70C is preferred range. Shut it off it it gets to 75C.
For all PCP airgun users:. High pressure air is DANGEROUS chit. Pay attention at all times. Having a knick name of Nine Fingers or One Eye is not where you want to be. Mike

 

[dantiff2]

I've had a pressure gauge puke. Probably operator error, the dog won't fess up, so maybe me. Not a lot to maintain. Use a high quality ISO VG46 or AW46 (or equal) oil as recommended by the manufacturer. Monitor oil level and color. The compressor is splash lubricated, oil level should be in the middle of the viewing glass Both high and low are bad news. Change oil every 50 hours or sooner if it starts to darken. I change the inlet air filter when I change the oil. Check the crankcase plastic PCV fitting to make sure it is not plugged every oil change. Keep a close eye on the temperature. I keep it under 60C, manufacturer says 60C to 70C is preferred range. Shut it off it it gets to 75C.
For all PCP airgun users:. High pressure air is DANGEROUS chit. Pay attention at all times. Having a knick name of Nine Fingers or One Eye is not where you want to be. Mike

Thank you for input. I think this is the path I might end up on. I've been looking at cassette/ briefcase style compressors for months and can't get two good reviews in a row. I like the idea of an oil lubricated and water cooled unti vs. air cooled and sealed bearings. I have a few PCP's to fill (when my boys and I decide to get them out) so I may also include a carbon tank to to my wish list. I like the idea of filling the tank and topping off the guns, then I can take the tank along to the bench.

Dan

 

[Pareto]

I saw JSB is one of the best pellets and they are made in the Czech Republic. Does the Czech Republic make anything that’s bad? Seems like everything that comes out of the Czech Republic is amazing quality. CZ firearms, Meopta Optics, JSB pellets, and probably a bunch of other high quality items I’m forgetting. If I see a “made in Czech Republic” sticker or emblem on a product anymore, I won’t hesitate to buy it.

My late father said that in the 1930s, the term "Czech quality" was widely used in the UK and Asia.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I have an omega trail charger and the large daystate compressor. The trail charger is a real good buy and works as good as any. It even comes with a rebuild kit. Only issue is its 12v so you have to hook it up to the included power supply, or use a battery

Omega Trail Charger 4500psi Portable 12V Air Compressor: Airguns of Arizona | Premier Airgun Store

 

[243winxb]

No pump air would be nice.
In 1970s, shot a FWB 65 when i was a Beeman dealer for a short time. Very accurate .177 gun. Recoiless too.

To beat the heat, shooting these in my cool basement, just yesterday.

 

[MikeT49]

I saw JSB is one of the best pellets and they are made in the Czech Republic. Does the Czech Republic make anything that’s bad? Seems like everything that comes out of the Czech Republic is amazing quality. CZ firearms, Meopta Optics, JSB pellets, and probably a bunch of other high quality items I’m forgetting. If I see a “made in Czech Republic” sticker or emblem on a product anymore, I won’t hesitate to buy it.

Earlier in this thread, @Schutzen2 posted about a Czech company called Altaros that makes slugs for air guns. They make a lot of cool airgun chit up to and including complete PCP airguns. They make sweet aftermarket PCP airgun pressure regulators. Most manufacturers today offer models with integrated pressure regulators. Perhaps, because they shoot better with regulators? Most decent airguns w/o regulators can shoot a fairly low ES on the flat region of the curve just on account of the valve design and system dynamics. Will a regulator help? For those of you that have PCPs without regulators, and if you like to tinker, look into Altaros PCP regulators. They work great if you like single digit ES. They do make regulators for a lot of existing airgun makes and models. They have excellent customer service.
They are available from eBay or direct from Altaros. Altaros takes PayPal.

 

[Cbashooter]

I see an 18v cordless portable compressor now available on Amazon .anyone have input?

https://www.amazon.com/GX-Portable-Compressor-Lithium-Ion-Paintball/dp/B0974PBNL3

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Been playing around a bit more now.

Currently I have the regulator set at 1800 psi. While it is very accurate and shot count on the tank filled to 4300 psi is impressive, the amount of wind drift and elevation drop is significantly more compared to the 2600 psi setting on the regulator that I started with. Haven’t chronographed anything with my Labradar yet because I really don’t care about anything other than my group size in paper but the pellets drop about 4 times as much at 100 yards from 2600 psi to 1800 psi on the regulator. However, 1800 psi still kills extremely well. Had to do a little bird and rodent control for the garden and everything is one shot instant death at 1800 psi setting

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I’ve tested quite a few did pellets in my Air Venturi now and nothing has shot bad. Even the worst groups are far better than the best groups my Gamo break barrel will do.

That being said...

I was in Walmart and saw the Ruger Superpoint pellets. They were only $7.50 per 200 and looked decent so figured I’d try a tin. Holy cow what a mistake that was!!! I couldn’t even keep them on the paper. I’d miss the whole target board to the right, then I’d hit towards the middle, then two would string off to the left at 4” then 6”, then off the target to the left altogether. Shot my Baracuda Match pellets just to make sure something wasn’t wrong and posted a 0.3” 3 shot group at 53 yards. So I shot another Ruger Superpoint and missed the target board completely to the right.

The first sign that these might not be good quality was when they would load in my single shot tray. Had to raise the tray up to get them better centered on the chamber. Never had that issue with any other pellet.

I’ve had some groups I wasn’t thrilled with so far using good quality name brand pellets from JSB and H&N but Good Lord these Ruger Superpoints are junk! They are goin straight in the trash!!!

 

[Grey Kiwi]

I’ve tested quite a few did pellets in my Air Venturi now and nothing has shot bad. Even the worst groups are far better than the best groups my Gamo break barrel will do.

That being said...

I was in Walmart and saw the Ruger Superpoint pellets. They were only $7.50 per 200 and looked decent so figured I’d try a tin. Holy cow what a mistake that was!!! I couldn’t even keep them on the paper. I’d miss the whole target board to the right, then I’d hit towards the middle, then two would string off to the left at 4” then 6”, then off the target to the left altogether. Shot my Baracuda Match pellets just to make sure something wasn’t wrong and posted a 0.3” 3 shot group at 53 yards. So I shot another Ruger Superpoint and missed the target board completely to the right.

The first sign that these might not be good quality was when they would load in my single shot tray. Had to raise the tray up to get them better centered on the chamber. Never had that issue with any other pellet.

I’ve had some groups I wasn’t thrilled with so far using good quality name brand pellets from JSB and H&N but Good Lord these Ruger Superpoints are junk! They are goin straight in the trash!!!

View attachment 1357615

Many thanks.
I am considering buying a decent air rifle for Benchrest (mainly).
Our local indoor club is looking at going with air as .22 ammo is now so dear here in NZ (well we are pretty much down under towards the bottom of planet Earth...next stop Antarctica).
Always good to see what is good, what is rubbish.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I’ve tested quite a few did pellets in my Air Venturi now and nothing has shot bad. Even the worst groups are far better than the best groups my Gamo break barrel will do.

That being said...

I was in Walmart and saw the Ruger Superpoint pellets. They were only $7.50 per 200 and looked decent so figured I’d try a tin. Holy cow what a mistake that was!!! I couldn’t even keep them on the paper. I’d miss the whole target board to the right, then I’d hit towards the middle, then two would string off to the left at 4” then 6”, then off the target to the left altogether. Shot my Baracuda Match pellets just to make sure something wasn’t wrong and posted a 0.3” 3 shot group at 53 yards. So I shot another Ruger Superpoint and missed the target board completely to the right.

The first sign that these might not be good quality was when they would load in my single shot tray. Had to raise the tray up to get them better centered on the chamber. Never had that issue with any other pellet.

I’ve had some groups I wasn’t thrilled with so far using good quality name brand pellets from JSB and H&N but Good Lord these Ruger Superpoints are junk! They are goin straight in the trash!!!

View attachment 1357615

Have you ever tried a good pellet that was that light? None of my rifles will shoot anything under 22gr or so in a 22cal. They are all very high power 250bar guns though. I hear those light pellets like the english style 15fpe or so- not sure what your gun is running

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Have you ever tried a good pellet that was that light? None of my rifles will shoot anything under 22gr or so in a 22cal. They are all very high power 250bar guns though. I hear those light pellets like the english style 15fpe or so- not sure what your gun is running

Yeah it shot the H&N Baracuda ‘Green’ pellets really well and those are only 12.96gr. Also shot a couple other H&N 18-ish gr pellets really well. But nothing shoots quite as good as the 21gr Baracuda Match in my rifle. The Avenger has a 300 bar tank but of course I don’t shoot pellets at that pressure

 

[dantiff2]

Yeah it shot the H&N Baracuda ‘Green’ pellets really well and those are only 12.96gr. Also shot a couple other H&N 18-ish gr pellets really well. But nothing shoots quite as good as the 21gr Baracuda Match in my rifle. The Avenger has a 300 bar tank but of course I don’t shoot pellets at that pressure

The Barracuda match are awesome pellets! Not sure if you are aware or not but they make those in different head diameters. Try them all out in each gun. My guns like the 5.51 pretty good but the 5.52mm shoot GREAT! with no fliers. The standard 5.50mm are half as accurate as the larger ones. My boys gun shoots the 5.50's just fine.
Dan

 

[tmwinds]

The Barracuda match are awesome pellets! Not sure if you are aware or not but they make those in different head diameters. Try them all out in each gun. My guns like the 5.51 pretty good but the 5.52mm shoot GREAT! with no fliers. The standard 5.50mm are half as accurate as the larger ones. My boys gun shoots the 5.50's just fine.
Dan

You’re exactly right about head size. It makes a world of difference. It’s like finding the right ammo for a rimfire. It requires perseverance and testing. Fortunately you can purchase test packs with various weights and head size to test. I do my testing indoors at 15-20 yards. Nothing less than a one hole 10 shot group is acceptable for a quality pellet rifle. I have a high dollar PCP but springers are my obsession, all Weinrauchs.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

The Barracuda match are awesome pellets! Not sure if you are aware or not but they make those in different head diameters. Try them all out in each gun. My guns like the 5.51 pretty good but the 5.52mm shoot GREAT! with no fliers. The standard 5.50mm are half as accurate as the larger ones. My boys gun shoots the 5.50's just fine.
Dan

Yeah I have both 5.51 and 5.52. My gun is the same way. Shoots really good with 5.51 but is crazy accurate with 5.52. The 5.52 out shoots anything else I’ve tested so far and they are extremely consistent. The are also devastating on varmints. I have a couple thousand of the 5.52 on hand now.

Nice thing is my point of impact remains exactly the same with the 5.51 or 5.52 so really doesn’t matter which one I grab. Although 5.52 is a little more accurate, the 5.51 will still punch a dime size bullseye on my 53 yard target board with every shot.