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Going with Air

MikeT49 said:
For those of you running a SCBA tank with a Scott CGA347 valve and don't like the push in the valve handle to operate deal, easy to fix. Take a 7/16" or 11mm socket and tighten the valve handle nut to eliminate the "push to operate" crap. You will have much better control of your fill.
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Wish I would have known that. I put a valve in my fill setup so I would have better control on flow. Good info!
 
JEFFPPC said:
I am seeing a lot of incorrect information. I personally called both Sightron and Leupold and was told all their scopes are springer rated. I have a Hawke , China made, 6x24x56 on my Tx200. Since January I have over 5000 shots out of it. Was shooting outdoors last week and had the elevation from one end to the other. Went back to my original settings and was dead nuts at my normal 25 yards. I cleaned yesterday for the first time. First several patches with Goo Gone were pretty dirty . Couple of dry patches and 3 foulers, first 5 shots at 25 yards under .2. The cleaning seemed to sharpen up the accuracy a bit. I have not washed or lubed. I shoot 98 percent AA pellets. Watched a video with a top European shooter comparing the value of wash and lube. His take was if shooting good pellets it's a waste of time. I will go with that....no not lazy, I weigh primers. I can show tangible proof it works. PCP is not doubt effective but also no challenge to shoot. I am happy with my springer and a tin of pellets, actually many tins of pellets,lol.
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There are a whole bunch of scopes that are not springer rated, and thousands have found out the hard way. As far as washing pellets, if you use JSB's you probably won't see anything. "IF" you use H&N or cheaper pellets, there is a good chance you will. For lube, all it takes is a couple of drops of synthetic oil. I spray in the can with a dry lube and it works well, and stays clean longer. I shoot mostly Marauders in .177, .22 and .25, along with a couple of Hatsans and a Gamo Urban, which are made by BSA. When I started out there was not much to choose from, but now, it's a buyers market. Don't skip NSA when you are looking at slugs. They do an excellent job.
 
My oldest son took my wife's PCP rifle and her high pressure hand pump. I am now left with a scuba tank and a new never used Air Venturi 3000psi adaptor and hose to fill the rifle tank from the scuba tank. $100 for both and I will not ship.
 
butchlambert said:
My oldest son took my wife's PCP rifle and her high pressure hand pump. I am now left with a scuba tank and a new never used Air Venturi 3000psi adaptor and hose to fill the rifle tank from the scuba tank. $100 for both and I will not ship.
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It now belongs to a friend.
 
Schutzen2 said:
It's a lot of fun and they're very accurate. I did the same thing about a year and a half ago because of the .22 ammo situation. I bought a RAW chassis model in .25 cal. I did not get a compressor yet because of all the issues I've seen with the cheap chinese models. Instead, I found two 60 min. SCBA tanks and will get by with those until I figure out what compressor I want. I think you will enjoy it. Great for pest control too !!
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I get my SCBA filled at my local fire station.
 
Here's some info on PCP fill equipment: I was using a single 2L frozen H2O pop bottle in my 5 gallon bucket of H2O for keeping my compressor cool while filling SCUBA or SCBA tanks, good for 20 minutes or so. This kept my compressor below 60C (140F). Recently, I picked up a couple of 6.8 L SCBA tanks and had to fill from ground zero to 300 bar (~4300 psi). Takes about 45 minutes. One 2L froze H2O didn't cut it. I tried two frozen bottles. Works great, compressor did not get above 58C after 50 minutes of run time. It also makes handling the cooling H2O 5 gallon bucket a lot easier. Pull out the two frozen bottles and you only have 2/3 of a 5 gallon bucket of H2O left to lift & carry for changeout. I use a much larger oil/H2O separator than came with the compressor. I use the dinker separator that came with the compressor on my fill hose from tank to gun. See pic.
There's a couple of fittings you might find useful. A male/male foster fitiing (double dildo) for connecting your tank hose to the compressor outlet, etc. See pic. Also very useful is a dead head (dust cap/plug) fitting. See pic You can use it to check the remaining air in your tank. Also useful for doing leak tests on your fill equipment.
Always leave the compressor running for a few minutes after filling to equalize temps. After you shut the compressor off, keep the cooling water running for 10 minutes or so.
I have been running my Yong Heng to fill SCUBA/SCBA tanks at least once a week for over two years. Still going strong. My only issue so far is a puked pressure gage. Easy replacement. Mike

IMG_20220709_122115.jpgIMG_20220709_122138.jpgIMG_20220709_122222.jpgIMG_20220709_122250.jpg
 
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MikeT49 said:
Here's some info on PCP fill equipment: I was using a single 2L frozen H2O pop bottle in my 5 gallon bucket of H2O for keeping my compressor cool while filling SCUBA or SCBA tanks, good for 20 minutes or so. This kept my compressor below 60C (140F). Recently, I picked up a couple of 6.8 L SCBA tanks and had to fill from ground zero to 300 bar (~4300 psi). Takes about 45 minutes. One 2L froze H2O didn't cut it. I tried two frozen bottles. Works great, compressor did not get above 58C after 50 minutes of run time. It also makes handling the cooling H2O 5 gallon bucket a lot easier. Pull out the two frozen bottles and you only have 2/3 of a 5 gallon bucket of H2O left to lift & carry for changeout. I use a much larger oil/H2O separator than came with the compressor. I use the dinker separator that came with the compressor on my fill hose from tank to gun. See pic.
There's a couple of fittings you might find useful. A male/male foster fitiing (double dildo) for connecting your tank hose to the compressor outlet, etc. See pic. Also very useful is a dead head (dust cap/plug) fitting. See pic You can use it to check the remaining air in your tank. Also useful for doing leak tests on your fill equipment.
Always leave the compressor running for a few minutes after filling to equalize temps. After you shut the compressor off, keep the cooling water running for 10 minutes or so.
I have been running my Yong Heng to fill SCUBA/SCBA tanks at least once a week for over two years. Still going strong. My only issue so far is a puked pressure gage. Easy replacement. Mike

View attachment 1353306View attachment 1353307View attachment 1353308View attachment 1353309
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What brand is the large separator and where did you get it ?
 
MikeT49 said:
Here's some info on PCP fill equipment: I was using a single 2L frozen H2O pop bottle in my 5 gallon bucket of H2O for keeping my compressor cool while filling SCUBA or SCBA tanks, good for 20 minutes or so. This kept my compressor below 60C (140F). Recently, I picked up a couple of 6.8 L SCBA tanks and had to fill from ground zero to 300 bar (~4300 psi). Takes about 45 minutes. One 2L froze H2O didn't cut it. I tried two frozen bottles. Works great, compressor did not get above 58C after 50 minutes of run time. It also makes handling the cooling H2O 5 gallon bucket a lot easier. Pull out the two frozen bottles and you only have 2/3 of a 5 gallon bucket of H2O left to lift & carry for changeout. I use a much larger oil/H2O separator than came with the compressor. I use the dinker separator that came with the compressor on my fill hose from tank to gun. See pic.
There's a couple of fittings you might find useful. A male/male foster fitiing (double dildo) for connecting your tank hose to the compressor outlet, etc. See pic. Also very useful is a dead head (dust cap/plug) fitting. See pic You can use it to check the remaining air in your tank. Also useful for doing leak tests on your fill equipment.
Always leave the compressor running for a few minutes after filling to equalize temps. After you shut the compressor off, keep the cooling water running for 10 minutes or so.
I have been running my Yong Heng to fill SCUBA/SCBA tanks at least once a week for over two years. Still going strong. My only issue so far is a puked pressure gage. Easy replacement. Mike

View attachment 1353306View attachment 1353307View attachment 1353308View attachment 1353309
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The small filter should be installed before the larger oil/water seperator. That should trap most if not all the water depending on the humidity level when you fill your tank. After filling you can then remove the cotton element and let it dry before your next fill. If you run the larger filter first trapping the oil/water your desiccant filter will become contaminated and need to be switched out more often. Also should be mounted vertically. That way the water would have to travel upwards to get to your tank. The water will have a better chance of coming out when you purge the line every 5 minutes of run time. Also helps to keep the tank your filling at the highest point. One more thing that I noticed in the picture was the bottle of husky compressor oil. These low pressure compressor oils are known to have a low flash point and can detonate in the second stage of the high pressure compressor. Detonation from oil vapors getting into second stage cylinder of these compressors is one of the reasons these compressors fail. There is a lot of information out there on using the proper high pressure compressor oils. (https://7E93973C-3BD9-44E6-8054-12A8E3DBC558.jpegwww.airgunnation.com/threads/compressor-oil-which-is-the-correct-one.1211334/).
 
I've got a feeder hanging outside my bathroom window. Entertaining in the AM while sitting on the throne sipping the first cup of coffee.
 
hoz53 said:
they are watching you to, wondering wats going on
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You bet they know what's going on. Let that feeder run out and they come and hover right in front of you. I swear they nod their heads toward the feeder to make sure I'm aware it's empty. Same thing at my buds place.
 
A note in passing, maybe someone has already made the comment, but a gently used older generation competition rifle, pre-pcp, can offer outstanding accuracy at a good price point. I have a side lever single pump FWB from the late 80s, a ten meter rifle, and it is outstanding. On a 60 shot match you do lose some stamina points to the pcp crowd, but you can make up for it feeling virtuous.
 
PCP can be ridiculously accurate.

This is a 14 shot group that a pellet will not fall through, fired from 10 yards with JSB Match.

Rifle is HW 100 with the solid steel barrel. (Not FSB) stock is Aeron.
 

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