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getting new barrel, 6mm creed or 6xc or ?

my old remmy 700 PSS in 308 is getting shot out, plus it's a pain to load for (super deep throat on factory barrel). the throat has a bunch of cracking in it,,,,so good excuse to put on new barrel! not sure why, it's only got prob 3k rounds thru it.

i thought why not try a 6mm cm.

i don't shoot competition, just retired so i go out to the range and shoot a lot, staying ready for hunting season plus my kids would probably enjoy it.

it will not be hunting rifle, unless maybe a coyote ran in front of me when i was shooting it. just more of a pleasurable range gun. it holds about 5 rounds but doesn't have a magazine set up. brings up another thought, will a 6br or 6 creedmoor cycle ok?

i plan on buying maybe 300-400 rds of prime ammo and using the norma brass to reload

1. any advice on barrel brand/reamer/twist/freebore/best bullets?

2. any reason to go with some of the other 6mm choices, br, xc, dasher?

3. i've never done it but is it really that difficult to buy a finished barrel and put it on myself?

4 don't get mad at my stupid questions please.

thanks!
 
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First off, nobody is going to get mad regarding your (not stupid) questions.

Regarding the caliber, why not just go with 6mm Creedmoor? There is ammunition readily available as well as brass if you elect to roll your own.
You don't sound as though you have done much in the way of research what is involved with installing a barrel so why not have it done for you and go shoot the rifle.
 
Pat has a very good point with the 6creed.
But I just had conversation today with my gunsmith about trying out his dasher, his personal favorite.
But he also highly recommended a 6br
For its ease in loading for and brass availability.
 
But he also highly recommended a 6br for its ease in loading for and brass availability.

It will also have a long barrel life relative to other 6mm rounds...
 
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6BR is a retired feller's dream. It is very accurate, low recoil, and cheap to shoot (in terms of barrel life and component costs). There is precious little factory ammo for it though.
 
@rockwind1, you didn’t say if you will be hunting with this particular rifle or not. Some cartridges are going to be feed better than others through your 700 action.

As for installing the finished barrel, you will have to use a barrel nut system (not that there’s anything wrong with that) in order to set the head space yourself. Otherwise just let a competent gunsmith set up the barrel for you. The decider for me would be how often you intend to swap barrels.
 
1. any advice on barrel brand/reamer/twist/freebore/best bullets?

Krieger 8T/JGS 6BR .272 Neck .104 fb/ any Berger or custom 105 class bullet.

2. any reason to go with some of the other 6mm choices, br, xc, dasher

No because for the sake of simplicity, accuracy and barrel life, the 6BR cannot be beat.

3. i've never done it but is it really that difficult to buy a finished barrel and put it on myself?

Just send it to a competent smith so it can be fit precisely to your action. Do it right the first time.
 
First off, nobody is going to get mad regarding your (not stupid) questions.

Regarding the caliber, why not just go with 6mm Creedmoor? There is ammunition readily available as well as brass if you elect to roll your own.
You don't sound as though you have done much in the way of research what is involved with installing a barrel so why not have it done for you and go shoot the rifle.

I've watched some youtube video's, does that count? seriously, i will probably have the local gunsmith do it but sometimes it takes a while plus it is something i have always wanted to try myself, i like learning new things and this seems like a reasonable one to try it on, won't be to upset if i mess it up. i will do a little more research though, thanks!
 
@rockwind1, you didn’t say if you will be hunting with this particular rifle or not. Some cartridges are going to be feed better than others through your 700 action.

As for installing the finished barrel, you will have to use a barrel nut system (not that there’s anything wrong with that) in order to set the head space yourself. Otherwise just let a competent gunsmith set up the barrel for you. The decider for me would be how often you intend to swap barrels.


i very likely won't be hunting with it, i have other dedicated hunting rifles. this just happens to be an old classic rifle that i want to keep, probably silly. i won't be swapping barrels much.
 
@rockwind1, you didn’t say if you will be hunting with this particular rifle or not. Some cartridges are going to be feed better than others through your 700 action.

As for installing the finished barrel, you will have to use a barrel nut system (not that there’s anything wrong with that) in order to set the head space yourself. Otherwise just let a competent gunsmith set up the barrel for you. The decider for me would be how often you intend to swap barrels.


which ones feed the best in that particular set up in your opinion?
 
If you run an AICS style centerfeed they all feed perfectly. If you run a BDL style then any longer case such as the 6x47 or Creed will be the best.
 
which ones feed the best in that particular set up in your opinion?

There are probably others more qualified to answer but I would think that 243 Win or 6 Creedmoor would be among the easiest to get feeding properly. If your not hunting with it I wouldn’t even worry about feeding from a magazine. I can count on no hands the times that I’ve loaded a magazine at the range. I even single load some of my hunting rifles under certain conditions.
 
Man, what stupid questions.
First, if you want to try a little chambering yourself, why not part off the barrel right at the action shoulder and rechamber that barrel yourself? You can stay with the .30 caliber barrel and change the chambering to .30BR or other .30 wildcats.
You haven’t mentioned your shooting distance of choice and so the twist rate and barrel length will dictate the bullet weight and length and desired powders. Short distances you can get away with a slower twist rate and shorter and lighter bullets - and less recoil. If you can use your magazine for .308 you shouldn’t have a problem with most other cartridges mentioned so far. As far as barrel brand, it’s a coin toss for the shooting that you do. You probably don’t need the bench rest grade barrels which cost a little more. I would, however, stay away from the pencil thin hunting barrels that get hot and then shoot like a noodle.
Sorry about the stupid answer.
 
If you want to shoot a larger Verity of bullets,55 grain to 107 grain,go with 6 creedmoor in 1 in 8" twist,for heavier bullets 110-115 grain 1 in 7.5/7.7 twist,Not Much loading data for 6XC under 115 grain,some 105 grain bullets,6 creedmoor brass is available all over,many brands;6XC is not.The 6 creedmoor is a little faster,You can buy Pre Fit Drop in Match Barrels for Remingtons at Northland Shooters Supply For About $350-$400 ,Criterion or Shilen,If you get a #5/ #6 sporter barrel,they shoot like the Heavy barrels,a little smaller at muzzel .675-.700.Either rounds are good ones.
 
Had a 6 BR outstanding.
Just got a Dasher built on the New Norm Brass Over the Top .

.243 6 Rem . Been there. short barrel life .
 
There are Pre-fit barrels for R-700 actions, tho that means you have to install a barrel nut like a Savage.

Pre-fit barrels are easy. Just youtube "Savage Pre-fit" or "RemAge install"... But by the time you buy the barrel vice, Action wrench, Go & No-Go gauges, barrel nut, recoil lug and a pre-fit barrel, you'll be in it for 80% or 90% of what it would cost a gunsmith to chamber a premium blank and fit it to your rifle with out truing the action.

If you plan on installing a prefit more than once, then it's worth the hustle. As easy as it is to install a pre-fit barrel, there is no room for error. it's your call.
 

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