First Remington 700 build. Do nothing at all, true the face or full blueprint?

[LVLAaron]

I have not sleeved one yet,
thinking about it, planning ahead on it
wouldn't sleeving the whole body be the better way to go?

Depends on the condition of the raceway. On that stiller bolt I shared, those sleeves/bushings got polished to be oval by about a half thou, to have some more clearance when operating it, and a little tighter when in lockup.

 

[urbanrifleman]

The point is; we were picking ONE thing to do. Not what things are easy. And sometimes getting the lugs right doesn't need a lathe

Some valve lapping compound and about 2 minutes. Still not completely convinced the groups would shrink. Probably. But no one has actually bothered to prove it.

 

[ELR LVR]

Some valve lapping compound and about 2 minutes. Still not completely convinced the groups would shrink. Probably. But no one has actually bothered to prove it.

Yep, then follow that up with some Flitz, to polish both surfaces to each other
and smooth as a custom

 

[ELR LVR]

Depends on the condition of the raceway. On that stiller bolt I shared, those sleeves/bushings got polished to be oval by about a half thou, to have some more clearance when operating it, and a little tighter when in lockup.

Sneaky

 

[LVLAaron]

Some valve lapping compound and about 2 minutes. Still not completely convinced the groups would shrink. Probably. But no one has actually bothered to prove it.

Many 700's with only one lug contacting have been corrected and shoot less flyers with higher pressure loads.

 

[ELR LVR]

Depends on the condition of the raceway. On that stiller bolt I shared, those sleeves/bushings got polished to be oval by about a half thou, to have some more clearance when operating it, and a little tighter when in lockup.

So, within sleeving bolts, I have seen it done by epoxy the split bushing to the bolt
and Silver Solder/ etc the bushing to the bolt
---
have you tried both methods or is there any reason why you would recommend NOT epoxying a bolt bushing
(As more of a welder, I am not a solder expert unless it is a PCB board with low temp solder
lol)
I can BRASS braze great, but silver solder always gives me problems
(I know, its the prep and cleanliness and the flux etc, but still
(I can Tig Alum fine, but not Silver Braze that well yet, never had the need to is why)
-
So I'm almost leaning toward epoxy
- If I had to Silver Braze I would rather simply TIG weld it on

 

[WSnyder]

Some valve lapping compound and about 2 minutes. Still not completely convinced the groups would shrink. Probably. But no one has actually bothered to prove it.

You’ve supposedly got the skills and the tooling, why don’t you get on it instead of complaining that someone else’s needs to do it?

 

[WSnyder]

So I'm almost leaning toward epoxy

Go the simpler route and use Loctite Black Max.

Bob Smith Industries has a cheaper alternative that works about as good.

iC-2000 Rubberized CA Glue​

IC-2000 | Rubber-toughened CA

Rubber-toughened Cyanoacrylate sepcially formulated for shock resistant bonds.

bsi-inc.com

 

[ELR LVR]

Go the simpler route and use Loctite Black Max.

Bob Smith Industries has a cheaper alternative that works about as good.

iC-2000 Rubberized CA Glue​

IC-2000 | Rubber-toughened CA

Rubber-toughened Cyanoacrylate sepcially formulated for shock resistant bonds.

bsi-inc.com

is that the same stuff Off - Roaders seal tire beads with? that'll hold it well enough?

 

[WSnyder]

is that the same Off - Roaders seal tire beads with? that'll hold it well enough?

Never heard of that so no idea. I’ve used Black Max for decades for various repairs. It’s a great tool to have in the box and I always have a bottle on hand. Bob Brackney if I recall correctly started using it bushing bolts way back. That’s where I was exposed to it for bolt bushings anyway.

And if no one knows that name, Bob Brackney is sort of the Father of Remington action truing. Others may have been there before but he’s the guy that really took it to where it is today.

 

[ELR LVR]

Never heard of that so no idea. I’ve used Black Max for decades for various repairs. It’s a great tool to have in the box and I always have a bottle on hand. Bob Brackney if I recall correctly started using it bushing bolts way back. That’s where I was exposed to it for bolt bushings anyway.

Great thank you, I'll try it

 

[LVLAaron]

I've done it both ways... Silver solder will have you (well, me at least) need to do a lot of other finish work on the bolt.

 

[tobnpr]

And if no one knows that name, Bob Brackney is sort of the Father of Remington action truing.

Yep.
I started on a SB 9A with a 4' bed- same machine he used. I picked up a couple issues of Rifle magazine from 1977 on Fleabay where he chronicled his build of a .220 Swift. Trued the action on the 9A with a boltway mandrel, and a sacrificial collar on the front of the receiver held in the steady. Had to sell the 9A due to lack of shop space a couple of years ago- big regrets on that one, I shoulda tried harder to squeeze it in somewhere. Having two lathes is the ticket...

Easier setup and much faster than dialing the receiver into a front/rear spiders truing fixture. He then trues the bolt nose to the body, and sleeves the rear of the bolt with a 1" sleeve.

Pretty interesting thumbing through these 50 year old magazines- some companies/advertisers long gone, many still around. And the prices...

 

[ELR LVR]

I've done it both ways... Silver solder will have you (well, me at least) need to do a lot of other finish work on the bolt.

I just hate to dumb it down to the effectual wording of
"I Krazy glued it on "
Thanks for you response, much appreciated

 

[urbanrifleman]

Many 700's with only one lug contacting have been corrected and shoot less flyers with higher pressure loads.

I'm sure that's probably true. I was just thinking that after all the articles ever written, no one ever did a study on it.

 

[STS]

I'm sure that's probably true. I was just thinking that after all the articles ever written, no one ever did a study on it.

How do you know that no one has ever studied it and not published the results. I’ve studied it for years and it’s proven its value many times over. Up until about 20 years ago I would just sleeve the rear of the bolt thinking that the rear of the bolt is what gets pushed up by the sear and cocking piece. I had some that still shot flyers that were cured by sleeving the front of the bolt as well. Some of us old guys are sneaky bastards and experiment and don’t reveal the results.

 

[Bob3700]

I would bet that if u went back in Precision Shooting in the 60-70s u would find ur article. Trueing of REM actions took place long ago when there were no custom actions. Benchrest and Highpower shooters were looking for any technical improvement they could find. In fact, u should look into Bill Calfee’s articles in PS ( in the 90s) on reworking XP-100’s to rimfire as well as 40x REM rimfire to improve accuracy. With clearance between the bolt body n action, the top lug is lifted off its seat by the cocking piece/trigger mechanism. Sleeving the bolt helps eliminate this keeping the bolt parallel to the action centerline. Jim Borden introduced his “ Borden Bumps” on his custom action bolts to help keep two lug actions in full contact.
If u lap lugs without the trigger installed n no sleeving, the top lug will still tilt away from the action only locking on the bottom lug. Think about it.