First Remington 700 build. Do nothing at all, true the face or full blueprint?

[tonyben]

The barrel should be back from black oxide tomorrow. I also bought a 1/4” thick PTG ground lug and was able to throw it in with the batch to have it black oxide as well.

In the meantime, I jigged up the action and got it aligned. The face only had 0.001” runout and I gave it a skim pass. I ran my dial indicator over the threads and there’s about 0.008” of runout in the receiver threads. I rotated the receiver 90 degrees and ran my indicator over the threads to get a reading, rotated another 90 degrees, etc…

I haven’t checked the bolt lugs yet. I need to find a dial indicator that’s small and long enough to fit in there. My B&S indicators don’t fit.

This had been a most enjoyable thread! Thanks for all that have contributed.

 

[LVLAaron]

I rotated the receiver 90 degrees and ran my indicator over the threads to get a reading, rotated another 90 degrees, etc…

Put your indicator on the carriage. Engage the threading dial and set to 16 TPI.

Now you can manually turn your chuck and your indicator will follow the thread.

 

[Sniperhandle]

Put your indicator on the carriage. Engage the threading dial and set to 16 TPI.

Now you can manually turn your chuck and your indicator will follow the thread.

You're a "Pretty Fart Smeller" I would not have thought of that! Very cool idea!

 

[Rich S]

View attachment 1716734


View attachment 1716735

The barrel should be back from black oxide tomorrow. I also bought a 1/4” thick PTG ground lug and was able to throw it in with the batch to have it black oxide as well.

In the meantime, I jigged up the action and got it aligned. The face only had 0.001” runout and I gave it a skim pass. I ran my dial indicator over the threads and there’s about 0.008” of runout in the receiver threads. I rotated the receiver 90 degrees and ran my indicator over the threads to get a reading, rotated another 90 degrees, etc…

I haven’t checked the bolt lugs yet. I need to find a dial indicator that’s small and long enough to fit in there. My B&S indicators don’t fit.

This had been a most enjoyable thread! Thanks for all that have contributed.

If you don’t figure out a good way to check them, I’d put some layout bluing on them and take as light of a cut as you can. Take depth measurements before and after. You will likely only remove 1 or 2 thousands. You will have a visual of what’s going on and the measurements will verify how much clean up was actually required.

Since you have trued up the face, a depth measurement to each lug should provide some info on the cleanup needed.

 

[LVLAaron]

You're a "Pretty Fart Smeller" I would not have thought of that! Very cool idea!

Every now and then I get a good idea.

 

[tonyben]

I checked with the half-nut engaged, machine set at 16 TPI and it has 0.008" of runout. I set the indicator to the crest of the threads. The outside of the receiver mirrors the same runout. The internal threads are not concentric to the bolt raceway. Is this typical?

 

[Rich S]

I checked with the half-nut engaged, machine set at 16 TPI and it has 0.008" of runout. I set the indicator to the crest of the threads. The outside of the receiver mirrors the same runout. The internal threads are not concentric to the bolt raceway. Is this typical?

I’ll have to admit I have not measured one like that before but that seems to be inline with what I have seen. The ones I did seemed to clean up around 8 to 10 thousands over on the diameter. I would guess it also is not parallel either. I made a go gage 0.002 under and to size that I used to determine thread pitch when recutting threads. I go directly to 1.077 (0.015 over standard). Doing it this way any reviewer I have trued all have the same tenon threads. All have cleaned up nicely at 0.015 over.

If I was making the plug gage again, I’d machine the OD at the same time I cut the threads. That would let it double as a tool to check runout after the threads are cut.

You may have noticed that the crest of the threads inline with the lug races may have been slightly affected by the race machining.

 

[Walt Krafft]

That is possibly typical, but probably doesn't mean much. I don't think the target will ever know the difference. As long as the barrel shoulder seats up to the front of the action the barrel will be parallel to the action.

 

[tonyben]

I got the two barrels back from black oxide today. They came out very nice!

I used hight temp silicon plugs to plug the bores (not really necessary, as the USMC spec for M40 stainless barrels is to black oxide the barrel inside and out).

Stainless recoil lugs..

I'll start turning the barrel for mine when I'm done with my action.

Tony.

 

[jackieschmidt]

For a complete blueprint? More than it's worth. Unless you HAVE to use a 700 for some reason like the vintage sniper match.

For not much more than a free 700 and a full work up, you can get a much better action that doesn't need anything, for 775.

EVO II Stainless Steel Single Shot Action | Mack Brothers

The Mack Brothers EVO II Stainless Steel Single Shot Action is only offered in a short action with the option of bolt face: standard, magnum, or .223.

macbros.com

True.
Rifle building has followed the path of Hot Rods for car guys.
Years ago, we used to scrounge for the “best” head castings, crank shafts, connecting rods, etc.
Now, the Summit or Jeggs catalogue has pages of aftermarket cylinder heads, cranks, rods, blocks, and anything else one needs to assemble a top notch engine that makes using old OEM components a waste of time and money.

Unless, as was said, you are involved in endeavors that require the use of OEM parts.

Computer Aid Design and Computer Aid Machining has literally changed everything.

 

[tonyben]

I found a dial indicator that works. It looks like I've got about 0.00015" difference between the bolt lugs. I can probably just lap the lugs and call it good.

Should I bother truing the barrel threads? Uncharted territory for me here.

I assume my next step is milling a slot in my jig for the bolt handle so I can jig up the bolt in the lathe and checking the back of the bolt lugs?

 

[LVLAaron]

I wouldn't worry about the threads.

I dont like those jigs for bolt handles. I put some stock in the chuck, a turn in place a 60 degree point, and use a false center (https://mansonreamers.com/product/remington-bolt-false-center-2/) then carefully put your tailstock center in the firing pin hole. If you're going to be doing any cutting with that setup, figure out a plug to use instead of jamming the tailstock in your pin hole. (tee hee)

 

[Walt Krafft]

A little lapping will tell you how the bolt lugs mate. Leave the threads alone.

 

[GenePoole]

I just use a collet.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

It's for me to compete with in the Vintage sniper matches, Like LVLAaron said, and for me to develop my bolt action builder skills so I can service customers that like rifles other than M14's.

The following is a side note, and a little bit about myself for context. It's not a rant or anything meant to be defensive...

If you didn't know, I am a very respected M14/M1A builder and that's my primary target audience. But I want to broaden my customer base so I'm not limited to just M14 work. The cheapest M14 I build runs around $3,500 for a basic build on a hammer forged receiver (Springfield Armory rifles are built on cast receivers). The more expensive builds are $5,000 to $7,000 after build and accessories like chassis systems and optics.

I taught myself how to build and bed M14's with no mentor, aside from older armorers that shared information online. I have taught myself how to run a mill and a lathe with no formal training, using only my research abilities and asking questions on forums. People don't know how much work is involved in building and bedding a M14 and how many nuances there are involved in match conditioning a M14. There's literally only a handful of guys in the country that do it and I'm one of them.

In short, I want to expand my abilities so I can better meet my customer's needs. I want this to be as accurate of a build as possible for marketing. If I'm cleaning targets at 300 and 600 yards and placing in the gold medal award category, and people know I built the rifle, that's good for my reputation and for my future customer base.

I sometimes outshoot guys with M40's with my personal M14 builds. Keeping up with a bolt action using a M14 is harder to do than most people think.

Tony.

Since part of your goal is to expand your abilities I would do everything to the action you can within the rules. Then you can decide if you even want to offer the services. Keep track of your time.

 

[AckleymanII]

It is an interesting test to chamber a New barrel on the non-trued and work up a load. Then cut the threads off, re-chamber the barrel, and work up a load after it is trued.

 

[tonyben]

I'll defer to the advice given and leave the threads alone for now. Thanks for the advice and I'll keep you all posted on my next steps. I'll be lapping the lugs for contact.

Tony.

 

[tonyben]

I just use a collet.

I haven't got the equipment yet to remove bolt handles. I'll make due for now.

 

[LVLAaron]

I'll be lapping the lugs for contact.

Wait to do that until it's barreled and in a stock.

 

[tonyben]

Wait to do that until it's barreled and in a stock.

Explain please? That would change headspace and be a pain to get all the lapping compound out with the barrel torqued on.