• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

First Remington 700 build. Do nothing at all, true the face or full blueprint?

I have not sleeved one yet,
thinking about it, planning ahead on it
wouldn't sleeving the whole body be the better way to go?

Depends on the condition of the raceway. On that stiller bolt I shared, those sleeves/bushings got polished to be oval by about a half thou, to have some more clearance when operating it, and a little tighter when in lockup.
 
The point is; we were picking ONE thing to do. Not what things are easy. And sometimes getting the lugs right doesn't need a lathe

Some valve lapping compound and about 2 minutes. Still not completely convinced the groups would shrink. Probably. But no one has actually bothered to prove it.
 
Some valve lapping compound and about 2 minutes. Still not completely convinced the groups would shrink. Probably. But no one has actually bothered to prove it.
Yep, then follow that up with some Flitz, to polish both surfaces to each other
and smooth as a custom
 
Depends on the condition of the raceway. On that stiller bolt I shared, those sleeves/bushings got polished to be oval by about a half thou, to have some more clearance when operating it, and a little tighter when in lockup.
So, within sleeving bolts, I have seen it done by epoxy the split bushing to the bolt
and Silver Solder/ etc the bushing to the bolt
---
have you tried both methods or is there any reason why you would recommend NOT epoxying a bolt bushing
(As more of a welder, I am not a solder expert unless it is a PCB board with low temp solder
lol)
I can BRASS braze great, but silver solder always gives me problems
(I know, its the prep and cleanliness and the flux etc, but still
(I can Tig Alum fine, but not Silver Braze that well yet, never had the need to is why)
-
So I'm almost leaning toward epoxy
- If I had to Silver Braze I would rather simply TIG weld it on
 
Some valve lapping compound and about 2 minutes. Still not completely convinced the groups would shrink. Probably. But no one has actually bothered to prove it.
You’ve supposedly got the skills and the tooling, why don’t you get on it instead of complaining that someone else’s needs to do it?
 
is that the same Off - Roaders seal tire beads with? that'll hold it well enough?
Never heard of that so no idea. I’ve used Black Max for decades for various repairs. It’s a great tool to have in the box and I always have a bottle on hand. Bob Brackney if I recall correctly started using it bushing bolts way back. That’s where I was exposed to it for bolt bushings anyway.

And if no one knows that name, Bob Brackney is sort of the Father of Remington action truing. Others may have been there before but he’s the guy that really took it to where it is today.
 
Last edited:
Never heard of that so no idea. I’ve used Black Max for decades for various repairs. It’s a great tool to have in the box and I always have a bottle on hand. Bob Brackney if I recall correctly started using it bushing bolts way back. That’s where I was exposed to it for bolt bushings anyway.
Great thank you, I'll try it
 
I've done it both ways... Silver solder will have you (well, me at least) need to do a lot of other finish work on the bolt.
 
And if no one knows that name, Bob Brackney is sort of the Father of Remington action truing.
Yep.
I started on a SB 9A with a 4' bed- same machine he used. I picked up a couple issues of Rifle magazine from 1977 on Fleabay where he chronicled his build of a .220 Swift. Trued the action on the 9A with a boltway mandrel, and a sacrificial collar on the front of the receiver held in the steady. Had to sell the 9A due to lack of shop space a couple of years ago- big regrets on that one, I shoulda tried harder to squeeze it in somewhere. Having two lathes is the ticket...

Easier setup and much faster than dialing the receiver into a front/rear spiders truing fixture. He then trues the bolt nose to the body, and sleeves the rear of the bolt with a 1" sleeve.

Pretty interesting thumbing through these 50 year old magazines- some companies/advertisers long gone, many still around. And the prices...
 
I've done it both ways... Silver solder will have you (well, me at least) need to do a lot of other finish work on the bolt.
I just hate to dumb it down to the effectual wording of
"I Krazy glued it on " :P
Thanks for you response, much appreciated
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
167,499
Messages
2,233,554
Members
80,474
Latest member
Bwag
Back
Top