Finishing a stock

[swampthang]

I really appreciate you taking the time to reply Hntndad .
I know exactly what I need to use ,how much and what to expect as results. I DEFINITELY want 12 coats of ppl deltron wet sanded between coats as a final automotive clear coat, but I am looking for someone with more patients and time than me to do it. This piece of wood is WAY to beautiful for my lack of patients to mess it up.

 

[Preacher]

I really appreciate you taking the time to reply Hntndad .
I know exactly what I need to use ,how much and what to expect as results. I DEFINITELY want 12 coats of ppl deltron wet sanded between coats as a final automotive clear coat, but I am looking for someone with more patients and time than me to do it. This piece of wood is WAY to beautiful for my lack of patients to mess it up.

Talk Cigarcop into doing it, he did a super nice job on the one shown....
He didn't use Delton though.....

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

FWIW, I believe that any high gloss finish diminishes the grain of the wood. Not much different than a bad picture where the flash creates a glare that hides what's underneath. So, IMO, if your goal is to strictly preserve/enhance the figure the wood has, a satin or matte finish will do this best. I really like a nice satin oil finish on a well figured hunting stock, for this reason.
That said, IMO there is nothing better than automotive clear for durability, shine, and overall practicality..on a target rifle. I like the high gloss finish of a well prepped and buffed auto clear, personally, but if you want to tone done the shine, there are flattening agents that can be added to auto clears that will give much of the best of both worlds.--Mike

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Another thing that I've found...Wood being porous, will create tons of pinholes in the finish in the early stages to finish the stock with clear. It seems counter intuitive at first, but heavier coats do little if anything to fill these pinholes..they just get deeper, requiring more sanding time to remove the finish down to the bottom of the pinholes. What has worked best for me is to begin with light sealer coats, sanding in between...then on to heavier coats once the pinholes are filled and the surface is fully smoothed and prepped.