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Electronic powder dispenser recommendation...

stevieb92

I've been using a RCBS chargemaster 1500 combo for quite a few years now with decent success. Mainly my loading sessions were about 50 rounds at a time, but last year I've gotten into PRS competitions and now load sometimes 150 - 200 at a time. I've noticed that the chargemaster has a drift to it. It's evident when I take the pan off the scale and read the number, which is of course a negative number because it is zeroed with the pan in place. This drift reduces my confidence that the charge amount is correct.

I'm looking to replace it with something that doesn't have this drift and is a little faster to dispense powder charges. I mainly load H4350 and Varget. What are your top three choices?
 
The drift you are experiencing is likely Zero Drift.
The scale electronics have an AUTO-ZERO that if different each time will show an incorrect reading.
I suggest a couple good check weights near your target charges.
When you decide on a replacement dispenser for your RCBS 1500, the check weights will come in handy.
 
Rocketvapor said:
The drift you are experiencing is likely Zero Drift.
The scale electronics have an AUTO-ZERO that if different each time will show an incorrect reading.
I suggest a couple good check weights near your target charges.
When you decide on a replacement dispenser for your RCBS 1500, the check weights will come in handy.
Click to expand...

Is there a fix for the zero drift?
 
When you put an empty pan on the scale, the AutoZero will set zero as soon as the electronics SENSE stability of the reading. That could be a couple of counts from the previous ZERO.
You need to evaluate zero and target values to have confidence in your charges.
Calibrating @ 100 grams does little for accuracy and repeatability of small (a few grams) readings.

How big of a variance do you get in negative pan weight?

Check procedure:
Using a check weight (accurate or even just stable * see below)
Tare/zero pan (non-plastic pan is best)
Then add check weight.
Repeat over and over.
Then,
Tare without pan.
Weigh pan, then add check weight. Over and over.
Then
Tare pan, add check weight and let it sit for a while.

* A "Good" check weight of known mass and tolerance is best but a stable and durable mass can evaluate drift. Take a U.S. Dime, a Nickle, and a Quarter. With a marker write "My Special Reloading Dime, Nickle, Quarter" and don't lose them :)

Even with the FX120 recommended in the other forum, weighting just a few grams on a scale calibrated @ 100 grams could benefit from smaller check standards.
 
Last edited:
Rocketvapor said:
When you put an empty pan on the scale, the AutoZero will set zero as soon as the electronics SENSE stability of the reading. That could be a couple of counts from the previous ZERO.
You need to evaluate zero and target values to have confidence in your charges.
Calibrating @ 100 grams does little for accuracy and repeatability of small (a few grams) readings.

How big of a variance do you get in negative pan weight?

Check procedure:
Using a check weight (accurate or even just stable * see below)
Tare/zero pan (non-plastic pan is best)
Then add check weight.
Repeat over and over.
Then,
Tare without pan.
Weigh pan, then add check weight. Over and over.
Then
Tare pan, add check weight and let it sit for a while.

* A "Good" check weight of known mass and tolerance is best but a stable and durable mass can evaluate drift. Take a U.S. Dime, a Nickle, and a Quarter. With a marker write "My Special Reloading Dime, Nickle, Quarter" and don't lose them :)

Even with the FX120 recommended in the other forum, weighting just a few grams on a scale calibrated @ 100 grams could benefit from smaller check standards.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!

As I start loading, I can watch the drift go from 0.1 grain as I get near 50 rounds, and gradually get bigger until it reaches about 0.7 grains if I'm loading close to 200 rounds. I calibrate every 50, but the zero drift keeps happening and progressing. I always keep it powered on. If I come back the following day and load more, the zero drift has come back to normal.
 
stevieb92 said:
I've been looking at the V4 with the A&D fx-120i, but man is that setup salty...
Click to expand...
I hear that. It was a big leap of faith and equally big chunk out of my wallet to make the jump to a Supertrickler. I’ve only been using it for a couple weeks but it is really fast and more accurate than my CM. For me the speed gain is what drove me there more than the powder drop precision when I’m bulk reloading for matches. The side benefit is that my powder drops do not vary as much either as they would with the CM. Good situation. I hope it holds up over the long haul.
 
With a GOOD zero, Full scale calibration should be stable for MONTHS.

Temperature, air currents, tilt, vibration, can cause a AutoZero to be wrong.
When you notice the negative pan weight changes, you MUST re-zero/tare even if only after 10 charges.
It's positive readings that really matter.
Zero with pan, add your special reloading nickle, let it sit.
Lift and repeat.
Let it sit.
With just 0.1 grain resolution, getting one or two counts over a reloading session would be good.
With a little more resolution, one or two counts ain't gonna matter.
 
I'm sure many many people have really good results with the "expensive" scales and tricklers.
Especially those that have really stable benches, 3" thick surface plates, and power conditioners.
All that for a milligram setup?
Still better (6 and a half times better) than +/- 0.1 grain scales though.
 
Rocketvapor said:
I'm sure many many people have really good results with the "expensive" scales and tricklers.
Especially those that have really stable benches, 3" thick surface plates, and power conditioners.
All that for a milligram setup?
Still better (6 and a half times better) than +/- 0.1 grain scales though.
Click to expand...
I’m trying to figure out where you are coming from. Can you expound?
 
@jimmymac
Digital scales have minimum environmental parameters, cheapo or expensive.
Is it the scale? The operating environment? Or the operator?
A milligram shouldn't be that darn hard to accomplish.
 
I still have no idea what you are talking about. Your previous post mentioned the hoops people jump through to get good results all for the sake of a milligram scale. I’m easily confused so I’ll move along with my day.
 
Poor mans V4, quality scale like a A&D fx-120i and a Harrel. I went from a RCBS CM to this setup to speed things up and im very happy with the results
 
I've been reading some folks talk about waiting for a new version of the autotrickler (I assume V5???) with IP. Will the A&D fx-120i work with that just like the autotrickler V4?
 
I’ve been using the Super Trickler now for a few months with the FX 120i with great results. It’s fast and accurate. The zero drift is minimal. I might have to re zero once during a 100 rd session. That’s for one kernel of Varget .02. I recommend keeping the unit off while not in use and warming it up for at least 30 minutes. Also, cutoff any fans and temporarily stopping the central AC while loading. Just don’t forget to turn it back on before going to bed.
 
Fairchaser said:
I’ve been using the Super Trickler now for a few months with the FX 120i with great results. It’s fast and accurate. The zero drift is minimal. I might have to re zero once during a 100 rd session. That’s for one kernel of Varget .02. I recommend keeping the unit off while not in use and warming it up for at least 30 minutes. Also, cutoff any fans and temporarily stopping the central AC while loading. Just don’t forget to turn it back on before going to bed.
Click to expand...
Can't tell you how many times I've forgotten to turn the AC and dehumidifier back on lol
 
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