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Dry neck lube

G'day guys, first time posting and relatively new re loader . How many of you guys use dry neck lube to seat bullets? I did a test today using redding dry neck lube.

I full length resized using imperial sizing wax wiped clean then dipped into the dry neck lube before using my mandrel die. Cleaned outside of case again and left the graphite powder inside of necks for bullet seating.

The seating force felt the most consistent I've felt using a Wilson inline seating die. And I got my best sd and Es for this load yet.

Interested in if anyone does something similar.
 

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I bought some graphite and just apply it inside the necks with a cotton buds (Q-tip). Seems to work very well. I started using it initially for virgin brass as it has no carbon on the neck, but carried on using it on fired cases. I'm getting good groups and lowish SD's so have carried on using it.
 
G'day guys, first time posting and relatively new re loader . How many of you guys use dry neck lube to seat bullets? I did a test today using redding dry neck lube.

I full length resized using imperial sizing wax wiped clean then dipped into the dry neck lube before using my mandrel die. Cleaned outside of case again and left the graphite powder inside of necks for bullet seating.

The seating force felt the most consistent I've felt using a Wilson inline seating die. And I got my best sd and Es for this load yet.

Interested in if anyone does something similar.
That's exactly what I do. It works well and as you say you can feel both mandrel and bullet seating so much smoother. It does leave the outside of the neck black though.
 
I’ve settled on using Lock-Ease. Graphite suspended in a solvent that evaporates after application via a Q-Tip (cotton swab). No need to wipe outside of case neck. If not available in your country, I’d imagine that there are local equivalents!
 
I bought my mandrels from Century 21. They recommended their moly powder in ceramic balls. It only leaves a trace of moly in the neck as far as I can tell, but the mandrel works without issue and whatever moly remains in the neck is left there to facilitate seating.
 
G'day guys, first time posting and relatively new re loader . How many of you guys use dry neck lube to seat bullets? I did a test today using redding dry neck lube.

I full length resized using imperial sizing wax wiped clean then dipped into the dry neck lube before using my mandrel die. Cleaned outside of case again and left the graphite powder inside of necks for bullet seating.

The seating force felt the most consistent I've felt using a Wilson inline seating die. And I got my best sd and Es for this load yet.

Interested in if anyone does something similar.
I use Mobil One on a Q Tip. One quart will last a lifetime Tommy Mc
 
G'day guys, first time posting and relatively new re loader . How many of you guys use dry neck lube to seat bullets? I did a test today using redding dry neck lube.

I full length resized using imperial sizing wax wiped clean then dipped into the dry neck lube before using my mandrel die. Cleaned outside of case again and left the graphite powder inside of necks for bullet seating.

The seating force felt the most consistent I've felt using a Wilson inline seating die. And I got my best sd and Es for this load yet.

Interested in if anyone does something similar.
I used to do mine that same way with similar excellent results, but wiping the exterior graphite mess irked me. I read somewhere about Neolube No. 2, so I tried it and I like it better than graphite powder. I apply it to the inside necks with a foam-tip swab, re-wetting the swab every 10-15 necks. It's a thin liquid that covers uniformly, dries in 10-15 seconds, and bonds tightly to brass, so it's very convenient and durable. After I re-size the cases I expand the necks with a mandrel. The expanding action is very smooth and even - at least as good as with graphite powder - just without the messy clean-up. After I trim, chamfer, de-burr, and prime and charge the cases, the Neolube is still there for smooth bullet seating with no loss of lubricity. Powder doesn't stick to it. I'm sold on it. The only drawback is it's pricey compared to graphite or anything else.
 
I use a 50/50 concoction of powdered moly and white mica for LRBR rounds.

1/4 inch in bottom of shot glass, dip neck in it, click on rim of glass to remove excess, wipe off outside, dump powder and seat bullet in arbor press.

Same results as yours.... consistent and smooth as silk seating.
 
Lots of different options. I went with graphite as it's cheap, they already add it to powder so won't affect it and works well. I have 30 rounds of 260 Rem loaded up for the weekend, so I'll see what the results are like.
 
I fooled with most of the above for 2 seasons along with a few others. Never saw on target gains. Anytime I have read what happens at Bang it starts off with...the case neck expands to release the bullet , then the bullet moves forward. He who correctly responds to conditions wins seems to be the real life truth.
 
I use the Redding dry lube for bolt guns when resizing and just leave whatever is left in the neck. I don't add anymore when seating the bullets. Seating feels very consistent to me this way.

I do admit to brushing the lube out with my M1Garands though. I find it helps prevent the projectile from getting knocked back into the case slightly and inconsistently. But as I am sure y'all know,, Garands aren't precision rifles so... less important than for long range/precision games.
 

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