Dry graphite lube

[6BRA]

I will only say, that you can safely anneal until the necks are red and even a portion of the shoulders.
no 2 people anneal for the same amount of time, except for maybe AMP users. I have fired rounds on both conditions listed above and no issues. There is no dead soft brass situation with either of the above. Carbon is definitely burned out almost completely. Everyone has their own way. Benchsource/dual torch/timer.

 

[JLT]

I've tried Imperial sizing wax, Imperial graphite and finally settled on molybdenum disulfide which I apply inside the neck with a Q-tip. I paint the lower neck of the bullet also. Seating pressure is significantly easier and consistent.
https://www.amazon.com/Molybdenum-Disulfide-Micron-Powder-Ounces/dp/B00IC&tag=accuratescom-20

I do something very similar. I drop a small amount of molybdenum disulfide into a container with isopropyl alcohol and give it a good shake. After applying with a Q-tip, the suspension dries very quickly and it mitigates the moly mess. I put it on prior to using the expander mandrels and there is enough left in the neck to make bullet seating consistent and smooth.

 

[tuttlefarm]

Tuttlefarm,

If I can ask, what are you using for inside Neck / Bullet lube for consistent bullet release and Low Velocity sd numbers.

Thanks

Nylon brush with dry graphite, I do not tumble or clean the brass. it is only good for 8-10 firings.

 

[jcwallac84]

I do something very similar. I drop a small amount of molybdenum disulfide into a container with isopropyl alcohol and give it a good shake. After applying with a Q-tip, the suspension dries very quickly and it mitigates the moly mess. I put it on prior to using the expander mandrels and there is enough left in the neck to make bullet seating consistent and smooth.

Could you elaborate on this process?

I too have used the dry graphite and it just ends up inconsistent on the inside of the case neck it seems, and messy.

I have previously done the wet tumbling and annealing, and it makes for terrible galling with an expander mandrel, let alone seating force consistency. If I could strip away the carbon and reapply lube in a consistent manner it'd save me some hassle. I thought about just using one shot and trying to angle in to the case necks, and I have not done that before, but again worry about consistency.

 

[PJ1]

I use the moly approach with 91% alcohol. You kind of have to get a feel for the right mix of powdered moly and 91%. You can tell by how well it adheres to the walls of the neck by looking at the density as it dries. No need to have a thick coating. On virgin brass, it will almost look like the carbon on fired brass.

I have noticed a big difference in seating pressures when using an arbor press, as opposed to not coating the inside of new brass necks and then seating with the press.

 

[JLT]

Could you elaborate on this process?

I too have used the dry graphite and it just ends up inconsistent on the inside of the case neck it seems, and messy.

I have previously done the wet tumbling and annealing, and it makes for terrible galling with an expander mandrel, let alone seating force consistency. If I could strip away the carbon and reapply lube in a consistent manner it'd save me some hassle. I thought about just using one shot and trying to angle in to the case necks, and I have not done that before, but again worry about consistency.

PJ1 laid it out. Getting an acceptable mix of moly and alcohol is fairly important. I use 1/4 tsp. of moly in two fluid ounces of alcohol and it works well. Drop the moly into an appropriate container, add the alcohol, screw the lid on tight and shake well. Apply the mixture to the inside of the case neck with a Q-tip - dip the swab in the suspension every 8 to 10 case necks or so - and run the cases over an expander mandrel or seat the bullets. The alcohol evaporates quickly, so if you're doing 50 or so cases at a time, the first cases will be more than dry enough for subsequent operation when you're done with the last.

 

[jcwallac84]

This is very helpful thank you guys! I may see how well a 6mm swab-it bore swab works. As much as I’ve used q-tips in the past, But may be a little more messy and not last as long

 

[Hoot]

When I read of members making up swab-able solutions of MoS in some carrier, I have often seen reference to 91% Isopropyl. Is this preferable to anhydrous (99%)? What about ethanol? I have tried different ratios of MoS and denatured alcohol, which is typically 95% ethanol with 5% methanol added to make it undrinkable. My results have been unimpressive in terms of deposition of the MoS inside shiny clean necks. Looks good on the q-tip but leaves nothing I can visually see, behind in the necks. I can easily buy either 91% or 99% isopropyl as the carrier if the denatured alcohol is the cause of my lack of visible success.

Thanks,

Hoot

 

[PJ1]

From my understanding, 99% is going to absorb h2o from the air so I really don't see the need for anything that strong. I'm using moly that is 1-2 micron and I see visible results. You do have to stir it to put it in suspension, as it will settle out.

 

[JLT]

When I read of members making up swab-able solutions of MoS in some carrier, I have often seen reference to 91% Isopropyl. Is this preferable to anhydrous (99%)? What about ethanol? I have tried different ratios of MoS and denatured alcohol, which is typically 95% ethanol with 5% methanol added to make it undrinkable. My results have been unimpressive in terms of deposition of the MoS inside shiny clean necks. Looks good on the q-tip but leaves nothing I can visually see, behind in the necks. I can easily buy either 91% or 99% isopropyl as the carrier if the denatured alcohol is the cause of my lack of visible success.

Thanks,

Hoot

I have always used Isopropyl because it's on hand, inexpensive and volatile. I can't imagine the properties involved are radically different - I'll ask my bride as she is the chemist - but I can report that the Isopropyl suspension leaves enough MoS2 behind to slick things up.

I clean with stainless pins, tumbling to the point where the inside of the case necks is free of carbon. I'm loading ammunition now for next week's match and the deposit of MoS2 is visible, although not screamingly obvious, inside the case necks. If you're not seeing any residue - a gray haze is what I see, and that works well - add a little more moly powder to the suspension.

Question - are you using wax or polish in your tumbling medium? I tumble in corn cob media with car polish after sizing to clean off the case lube. Polish leaves little or no residue on the cases and wax does. That may very well have an effect.

 

[Hoot]

Question - are you using wax or polish in your tumbling medium? I tumble in corn cob media with car polish after sizing to clean off the case lube. Polish leaves little or no residue on the cases and wax does. That may very well have an effect.

No but these are actually new Lapua cases out of the box. Perhaps Lapua gives their new brass a little corrosion inhibitor. When I wet tumble, its just SS chips (vs pins), softened water and Citranox which among other positive traits, is a degreaser.
I may have been looking for too positive an indicator. There's definitely a film but I was expecting a darker result. I am using very fine (0.1um) MoS powder.
Folks who plate their bullets with MoS have generally switched from dry tumbling to a water based suspension with great success. This leads me to wonder if the 91% isopropyl benefits from the 9% water content in terms of wetting and adhesion of the MoS. I only have 77% rubbing alcohol around the house but I will pick up either some 91% or for sure the anhydrous form from the local drug store.

Hoot

 

[jaytee]

Pardon me if this is a stupid question but I'm reading this as a interested bystander who loads but not for any kind of competition. I tumble with the SS pins and I size with wax and use a nylon brush to lube the inside of the necks for sizing. What I'm wondering about is the lubing of the inside of the necks afterwards with the graphite/alcohol mix. Everybody swabs with a qtip, but instead of the qtip cant you just dip the neck in the solution or would that be putting too much on the inside? Would the graphite on the exterior be an issue? Just curious.

 

[Jason.n]

This is a great discussion. I am learning a ton while lurking in the shadows.

 

[PJ1]

Pardon me if this is a stupid question but I'm reading this as a interested bystander who loads but not for any kind of competition. I tumble with the SS pins and I size with wax and use a nylon brush to lube the inside of the necks for sizing. What I'm wondering about is the lubing of the inside of the necks afterwards with the graphite/alcohol mix. Everybody swabs with a qtip, but instead of the qtip cant you just dip the neck in the solution or would that be putting too much on the inside? Would the graphite on the exterior be an issue? Just curious.

You'll get a lot of opinions on this topic. I've never tried the graphite route in alc solution and I would never use ss pins again. The pins ping up the mouths.............Again, you'll get a lot of opinions. Dipping is a waste of material, a mess, and if the primers are installed, you'll get air pressure that may not allow the solution into the necks. In the end, it will be a personal choice.
I size, mandrel, seat using psi dial. It works for me, but it may not for you. Self taught and I don't always listen to what the experts say. Yet I end up with 0.5 moa or less 5 shot groups. Since I shoot steel, getting it down to lesser moa's isn't a big deal for me, but if you are a competitor it's a whole different story. Pick the hill you want to play on and stick with what works for you. Lots of experimentation/black magic going on in this hobby.

 

[Louisiana Shooter]

I've just used powdered graphite for years. Just dip the neck in it. Seat the bullet. Wipe off any excess......seating pressure remains consistent all the time.

 

[Louisiana Shooter]

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[divingin]

What I'm wondering about is the lubing of the inside of the necks afterwards with the graphite/alcohol mix. Everybody swabs with a qtip, but instead of the qtip cant you just dip the neck in the solution or would that be putting too much on the inside? Would the graphite on the exterior be an issue? Just curious.

I don't do either with any regularity, but I will say that graphite in alcohol will settle out after a bit. You can mix it up as this or thin as you like though (alcohol to graphite ration, that is), and run whatever you decide works for your application. But you will need to have some method of getting the graphite back up into suspension eventually.

 

[RegionRat]

If you want to make your own solution it isn't difficult, but if you want to try this and don't want to bother with trying to make it you can just grab some NeoLube No2.

In many labs, shops, and hobbies, etc., it is a very common thing to have around.

I have seen the price for a 2 oz. bottle skyrocket these days, anywhere from $22 to $35.