Do it yourself Stock making thread

[Seagull]

Don't normal do much tr work but this one needed rebedding . So the owner decided he wanted a full Ali block put in for this old girl . Will epoxy the block in maybe tomorrow nite hopefully and should be ready to shoot by the weekend . The old beddeding was cracked in to many places so it go a birthday

 

[dryhumor]

I seem to think I have a plan. Single shot Tikka T3x is the plan. Just about got the clearance I need. Got to figure some variables on springing/floating the sled/follower or attaching it.

 

[JFrank]

I received a stock I ordered from a guy 9 months ago, the first one was a train wreck I sent back and now I have to finish some details on the second one that didn’t get done right. I have no idea what I’m doing, but by golly I’m going to give it a try.

 

[LVLAaron]

I received a stock I ordered from a guy 9 months ago, the first one was a train wreck I sent back and now I have to finish some details on the second one that didn’t get done right. I have no idea what I’m doing, but by golly I’m going to give it a try.

As someone who has done far too many M40 clones based on stocks from ebay... I feel your pain.

 

[JFrank]

I’ll be milling the pillar a wee bit to fix this little blunder.

 

[pdhntr]

I’ll be milling the pillar a wee bit to fix this little blunder.

I always leave that particular area of a stock about a 1/4" proud, from the grip to a couple inches forward of the trigger guard. After inletting the guard, and checking the final fit of the whole works I will remove the extra wood.

I found I can measure all I want, but sometimes things happen, and the little bit of extra wood just in that area is nice to have on occasion, and can be removed quickly for a perfect fit.

Jim

 

[JFrank]

In this case the front edge of the pillar is proud.
:-(

 

[JFrank]

It’s time to get the files going !

 

[hoz53]

Don't normal do much tr work but this one needed rebedding . So the owner decided he wanted a full Ali block put in for this old girl . Will epoxy the block in maybe tomorrow nite hopefully and should be ready to shoot by the weekend . The old beddeding was cracked in to many places so it go a birthday

i never put a bedding block in any of my stocks but i think i outta try it. i would glue it in and also fasten it from the outside of the slock somehow. would probably make the block to.

 

[Gabe22BR]

It’s time to get the files going !

What ya got in mind taking off or reshaping??

 

[JFrank]

What ya got in mind taking off or reshaping??

Reshaping just a tad bit.
I started with a rasp then went to 100 grit followed by 150 just to get close. I think it’s better already.
It would help if I knew what I was doing .

 

[joshb]

Reshaping just a tad bit.
I started with a rasp then went to 100 grit followed by 150 just to get close. I think it’s better already.
It would help if I knew what I was doing .

It looks like you do. Using the tape is A1 professional! It’s not rocket science!

 

[joshb]

I always leave that particular area of a stock about a 1/4" proud, from the grip to a couple inches forward of the trigger guard. After inletting the guard, and checking the final fit of the whole works I will remove the extra wood.

I found I can measure all I want, but sometimes things happen, and the little bit of extra wood just in that area is nice to have on occasion, and can be removed quickly for a perfect fit.

Jim

Good advice! That’s how I do it. I’m working on one now. I left an extra 1/2 inch on the bottom. I screwed up the action inlet and had to lower it 1/4 inch to get past the gouge.
Still had a quarter inch on the bottom, thankfully!

 

[joshb]

I’ll be milling the pillar a wee bit to fix this little blunder.

You could cut/chisel/route a notch in the curve and glue a 1/4” slab of maple on the bottom to cover it up and recut for the guard.
If you cut your pillar, you might then have to cut your trigger.

 

[JFrank]

It’s not rocket science!

If it were I’d be in big trouble !! Thankfully I know this really good stock finisher that can hide my screw ups.
I was able to get the weight bolt out today but not the sleeve, that was supposed to be behind a removable butt plate. The sleeve is being stubborn.

 

[JFrank]

You could cut/chisel/route a notch in the curve and glue a 1/4” slab of maple on the bottom to cover it up and recut for the guard.
If you cut your pillar, you might then have to cut your trigger.
View attachment 1669421

Maybe bed the low spot under/behind the rear screw hole ?

 

[joshb]

Maybe bed the low spot under/behind the rear screw hole ?

That might work, too. I hate to admit it, but I’ve scabbed pieces on to cover “issues”. One of my worst was changing a Remington clone stock into a Kodiak stock. I’ll look for a pic.
Found it. Even the dog had her doubts! Extra wood behind the action and the trigger guard. Oh…and the bolt notch.

 

[JFrank]

The dog definitely had doubts’ I have to put the action back in to check the clearance, it wasn’t all the way down when this pic was taken.

 

[Gabe22BR]

Use a little heat to get the sleeve out, I’m sure it’s got some epoxy on it- all else fails saw the butt off where you want it- up to the sleeve-

On the trigger guard, make sure the trigger doesn’t hit the bottom of the guard, before milling it off- or YOU will be adding a piece to build it back up-

 

[JFrank]

I’m actually liking the bedding approach rather than milling.
I shouldn’t have to do either one but that’s a side story