joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Yup! I’ve done it both ways, but with a pad. You put a point on that wood and it’s bound to get knocked off in the future.
Do it yourself Stock making thread
- Thread starter joshb
- Start date
dryhumor
When an old man dies, a library is lost forever...
By the time I’ve cut my scrap into slivers…..
I learned some of what seems to work and what seems to not work today. Found that a foam mop head cut into pieces and held with hemostats is pretty good for application.
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Look closely at that piece of art Bc’z did. The recoil pad has a little wing left on it at the toe. It’s a goldarn travesty of workmanship. Send it to me and I’ll fix it! Might take a while!
You can also see where I found the metal.Look closely at that piece of art Bc’z did. The recoil pad has a little wing left on it at the toe. It’s a goldarn travesty of workmanship. Send it to me and I’ll fix it! Might take a while!
View attachment 1652977
That was my 1st attempt at a recoil pad using the handy dandy jig posted earlier.
Here's my 2nd attempt, I think I over tightened it causing it to dish out the pad a lil bit
Thats looking good.By the time I’ve cut my scrap into slivers…..
I learned some of what seems to work and what seems to not work today. Found that a foam mop head cut into pieces and held with hemostats is pretty good for application.
View attachment 1652969
For applicator I use plain white cotton Tshirts, once folded up i apply dye directly to it, sometimes in blending I'll dab my applicator on a WET towel just to kinda wet it a lil bit.
Keep doing what your doing, but don't be afraid to experiment.
Jonnyofalltrades
Silver $$ Contributor
Wet with water? Or alcohol?
Water, a small container of water per color could work... but a saturated shop towel kinda sorta gives you some control on how much water your taking into your applicator...
I've been wanting to play with a sand back I've seen on YouTube .. prs guitars has a color they call northern lights... It's a diluted red sanded back then hit with diluted blue gives some cool effects
Try the red at full strength then sand back, now apply your blue strength of dye to taste. You should see violets and blue with hints of red.
Same process only in reverse with blue 1st followed with red would be cool as well, depending on what you want your mass tone to be.
Keep us posted i want to see what you come up with.
ELR LVR
Silver $$ Contributor
Now that really looks amazing
how did you get that Tiger Looking effect?
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Rootbeer dye job goes like this....
Black with brown
Sand
Brown with black
Sand
Brown with orange
Sand
Brown with orange and vintage amber
Sand
Vintage amber
Sand
Vintage amber
Start priming
Block twice
Final prime
Block twice
Clear
block 800, hard rubber pad 1000, soft rubber pad 1500, worn out soft rubber pad 2000.
The original rootbeer dye job for Jim Bauer, this stock was made by Xring from 1 solid piece of maple. I had my 1st coat of dye on when jim informed me it needed barrel vents. Lol
this quilted maple Jim Bauer sent me for his buddy Dan Muller, I left the black out of the process and came up with this.
There's is a lady in a shroud bottom corner of butt
Bart Sauter's JB1000, this is the stock he shot his 600yd World record with, and the 1st time in started applying candy over a dye job.
now back to the Mauser
ELR LVR
Silver $$ Contributor
Dang, that is quite a process
When you get down to the "Start priming" step
What are you priming it with?
Polyester resin as is the clear
All the differences between these dye jobs is the amount of black used in 1st coat, or lack thereof on Dan Muller's, the mauser having the highest concentration of black.
Having drops to play with is huge, here's a drop test panel for a ambrosia maple I'm starting on this week....
Customer wants green
1 side is green the other has a base of yellow followed with blue.
Dyes were applied undiluted using application techniques i spoke of earlier.
Damp rag for blending.
The drop...
knowing green and brown don't play well together I had my doubts...
You can see how muddled the color is in the green.
Yellow was allowed to flash, damp rag to pull excess and rewet surface blue around edges, yellow dabbed onto WET towel to dilute worked from inside out followed with damp towels wiping 1 direction.
Let's just say the customer ain't getting green. Lol
Having drops to play with is huge, here's a drop test panel for a ambrosia maple I'm starting on this week....
Customer wants green
1 side is green the other has a base of yellow followed with blue.
Dyes were applied undiluted using application techniques i spoke of earlier.
Damp rag for blending.
The drop...
knowing green and brown don't play well together I had my doubts...You can see how muddled the color is in the green.
Yellow was allowed to flash, damp rag to pull excess and rewet surface blue around edges, yellow dabbed onto WET towel to dilute worked from inside out followed with damp towels wiping 1 direction.
Let's just say the customer ain't getting green. Lol
ELR LVR
Silver $$ Contributor
That area dabbed with yellow would look good after being clear coated
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I wish I had known about the dyes before
I had been working on an Axe Handle I was making tricked out and used various diluted wood stains that didnt give quite the desired effect and finally ended up using some Brown leather dye
I wanted a nice blood burgundy type color to it.
The Analine dye seems like it would have been the ticket
It turned out nice but leather dye takes forever to dry (On wood anyway)
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This is all such great info I appreciate you taking the time to explain it
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Now i want to do my rear deck after seeing that.Green can look good
Here's a test drop I was working on last night
You just need to get yerself some Termin-8 copper wood preservative
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