Thank you Sir!!!I use West systems all I do is saturate the timber with epoxy wait till tacky then lay on carbon fibre saturate carbon fibre with epoxy use a small roller and roll epoxy all over it. Then do the same to next piece of timber clamp up and wait till the next day to add another piece of carbon fibre matting and other piece of timber. Clamp up and wait for atleast 2 days before triming off the excess carbon fibre mating and start shaping. Just remember carbon fibre will eat tooling trust me.
I use 30k carbon fiber between my laminates. Clamping works well. Keep in mind clams make tight spots where the head of the clamp sits. I use a combination of clamping and vacuum on mine. You control the glue joint with the finish on your mating surfaces. Once you figure out your layup sand the glue joints opposing each other. That will keep all the glue from squeezing out of the joint. Don’t be afraid to use tight bond I have stocks that are older than me that were glued up just using Elmer’s. If you use glue It’s more about finish you want to keep moisture out.For anyone that uses epoxy to glue their stock laminates together:
I am thinking to put some fabric between the laminates of the stock I'm putting together for some additional strength. burlap/denim/something. Kind of a fabric G10 kinda thing. I'm thinking to use the West System epoxy.
How would you go about clamping/weighting the laminates for good adhesion? From the little I know, too tight will starve the joint of glue making it weak. Vacuum bagging is not an option. I'm a newb at this and am looking for solid advice on how to proceed.
Thanks for any advice anyone can give.
This thread has inspired me to try my hand at making a stock as well. Joshb and others have been very helpful and encouraging so I figured what the heck. So far I have used the same philosophy as Seagull. I found some 6” carbon fiber tape on Amazon and have some West systems in the shop. I laid the blank up all at once and let it set a couple days before trimming it up. I’m working on my inletting skills on some mock-up blanks I glued up from the wood pile. Once I get a little more confidence I’ll dive into this blank. Good work fellas, and thanks for your help to us who would like to make our own stock one day. JoeI use West systems all I do is saturate the timber with epoxy wait till tacky then lay on carbon fibre saturate carbon fibre with epoxy use a small roller and roll epoxy all over it. Then do the same to next piece of timber clamp up and wait till the next day to add another piece of carbon fibre matting and other piece of timber. Clamp up and wait for atleast 2 days before triming off the excess carbon fibre mating and start shaping. Just remember carbon fibre will eat tooling trust
Thanks.I use 30k carbon fiber between my laminates. Clamping works well. Keep in mind clams make tight spots where the head of the clamp sits. I use a combination of clamping and vacuum on mine. You control the glue joint with the finish on your mating surfaces. Once you figure out your layup sand the glue joints opposing each other. That will keep all the glue from squeezing out of the joint. Don’t be afraid to use tight bond I have stocks that are older than me that were glued up just using Elmer’s. If you use glue It’s more about finish you want to keep moisture out.
I wouldn’t. Wood glues need a tight joint and lots of clamping pressure. Putting a fabric in between could weaken the joint. Use an epoxy with fabric.Thanks.
I was wondering about TiteBond.
I want to put a fabric in between the wood. Not necessarily carbon fibre. Just something for a little bit of torsional strength and to help reinforce the wrist a bit. I was wondering if TB would soak in to the fabric well enough that it would work. If anyone has any insight, I would love to hear it.
My guess is that it's not a great plan but in the spirit of learning I'd like to understand why it may or may not work.
Carbon fiber is relatively cheap on ebay. Fiberglass works well but both are a bit a little more work compared to some fabrics.Thanks.
I was wondering about TiteBond.
I want to put a fabric in between the wood. Not necessarily carbon fibre. Just something for a little bit of torsional strength and to help reinforce the wrist a bit. I was wondering if TB would soak in to the fabric well enough that it would work. If anyone has any insight, I would love to hear it.
My guess is that it's not a great plan but in the spirit of learning I'd like to understand why it may or may not work.
I’m sure you could use a cotton based fabric. You’ll only get your strength from the hardness of the epoxy/glue being used. If I were to use something like that I would use some kind of penetrating epoxy to completely seal it off if not it might want to wick moisture faster than the wood. I pretty much only use carbon fiber for the “cool” factor sure it will add some strength and rigidity and maybe a bit better glue joint. Walnut/maple have a hardness of around 900-1200 lbs. if you want strength make your stingers out of bubinga, Padauk or Wenge any of those 3 have a hardness of around 2000 lbs.I want to put a fabric in between the wood. Not necessarily carbon fibre. Just something for a little bit of torsional strength and to help reinforce the wrist a bit. I was wondering if TB would soak in to the fabric well enough that it would work. If anyone has any insight, I would love to hear it.
I'd guess it's a crack or something found naturally in the wood with epoxy tinted and maybe some kind of prismatic added. It looks cool in the pic, probably better in sunlight in person.Wow, a little more detail on your process?? Those are awesome.
The fabric will give it some additional strength if it's done correctly. Putting a dowel through the grip may or may not still be a good idea depending on how the fabric is done.I’m sure you could use a cotton based fabric. You’ll only get your strength from the hardness of the epoxy/glue being used. If I were to use something like that I would use some kind of penetrating epoxy to completely seal it off if not it might want to wick moisture faster than the wood. I pretty much only use carbon fiber for the “cool” factor sure it will add some strength and rigidity and maybe a bit better glue joint. Walnut/maple have a hardness of around 900-1200 lbs. if you want strength make your stingers out of bubinga, Padauk or Wenge any of those 3 have a hardness of around 2000 lbs.
Exactly it’s some punky walnut drop that I had on hand. It’s actually the drop from this stockI'd guess it's a crack or something found naturally in the wood with epoxy tinted and maybe some kind of prismatic added. It looks cool in the pic, probably better in sunlight in person.
Look in to what people are doing for epoxy river tables and you'll get lots of ideas.
That’s stunningExactly it’s some punky walnut drop that I had on hand. It’s actually the drop from this stock View attachment 1396851