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Do it yourself Stock making thread

Spent the morning putting the gun together. The action is an old 600 that had been sleeved. Thanks to @hogpatrol , @Markman and @nilebartram for the help getting the parts to put it back in working order. One part I couldn’t find was a bolt release button that worked with the Timney trigger so I did a little Redneck Gunsmithing with a piece of brass rod. I got the hole for it drilled right on the first try! Sending the metal out for ceracote in tan. Nutted barrel in 223 from @urbanrifleman .F803C40C-E14E-4A0A-83C8-CD1C899F6810.jpeg53D4878E-E9F7-45ED-A876-A4AFBB2A4A45.jpeg2A6A70B4-D320-43CF-8FDA-B8A3FC45A473.jpeg7E7E3301-4F3E-4D9E-A6FF-6EC28A65CE0B.jpeg
 
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That’s pretty wild. There’s a Maple blank on eBay with a bunch of cracks. Filling them with something like pearl orange would look cool…but $400 for a blank with cracks?


 
That’s pretty wild. There’s a Maple blank on eBay with a bunch of cracks. Filling them with something like pearl orange would look cool…but $400 for a blank with cracks?


Looks more quilted than curly.
Beautiful piece of wood.
 
I just got the old 600 back from getting ceracoted. I can’t say enough about how happy I am with the job they did. The action had lots of deep scratches all over it from being sleeved. They took the time to polish them out and make the action look like new again. If any one needs ceracote work done, I highly recommend Milrad LLC in Brookhaven, Pa. With only minor begging, they had it done in a week! Great outfit!DB1CB8EC-7A37-4BC4-BCE4-0C6FAACE8342.jpeg4E5D15E8-EDB1-4CC2-99CA-F92EC3C20698.jpeg51336B0F-7445-4231-BA04-5FBC474303FD.jpegEE0DA3B1-3421-4DFA-B25A-29E7BCBB3E46.jpegDFAAFD88-FE50-4626-9E42-5A091C488351.jpeg
 
That’s pretty wild. There’s a Maple blank on eBay with a bunch of cracks. Filling them with something like pearl orange would look cool…but $400 for a blank with cracks?


Maybe if the blank was sorta straight. Nice piece of wood though
 
How do you find using the duplicator now ??
It feels like cheating! I finally figured out the quirks and it’s working for me.
When I first set it up and used it, I was using a well known manufacturer’s stock to copy. The first copy was off. I fussed, measured carefully, double checked all my bits and cut another copy. It came out crooked! I cursed myself for buying the “cheap” duplicator and went back to making them by hand. Last spring, I started a second try with it. Just to check everything, I measured the stock I was copying.
IT WAS CROOKED! The duplicator was working just fine! Stupid me!
I still inlet the action, barrel and bottom metal in my blocks with a router. I shape the fore end by hand to suit my whimsy .
 
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Nice I do all my inletting in the mill and the rest is done on the duplicator . Butt of stock and forend in the machine same as you do plus a bit of hand shaping at the end .
 
I thought you could inlet 100% on a duplicator? Thats what the duplicator folks say at least
Ah, the “sell” and the reality.
Nope. It’s not accurate enough for that. You get close, but not on. Not dead nuts on, anyway. Not good enough for my work.
I tried a few. You have to go back in the inlet and recut it to make it right, except you’ve lost the clean edges to measure off of. The outsides need to be sanded smooth. The differences on the surface can be as much as an 1/8 of an inch. I’ve made some custom dummy guide bits. If I’m using a 1/2” cutter, I’ll use a 5/8 “ guide bit for “finish” and a 3/4” for rough in.
Maybe it’s better with the $10,000 machine?
Add: Here are some more pics. I tried something new with the 40x stocks. I left 2 flats to work from. I’ll see if it works for me.
99F82B28-0384-4886-8B11-A5242845BD33.jpeg566A6881-C5A5-4DFC-B7AE-6C7F51430A80.jpeg
 
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