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Do it yourself Stock making thread

butchlambert said:
My Bridgeport turned it fast enough to get a good cut. You may see the vacuum hose. Folks on PM are not my instructors.
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Beware a man that owns a Bridgeport and knows how to use it.
That's mine in my avatar.

Butch....How may flutes on the cutter ?? I never liked a 2 flute, but a
4 was more likeable in the top range. And good call on the vacuum.
I made an unwarranted mess a time or two...LOL
 
“I know this is not the jig Josh, but I like how you concealed the mag in your design.”
I can’t take credit for the design. It’s a tweaked copy of the old Tikka Master Sporter stock. It’s the reason I got into making stocks. I shot one in Wyoming and liked it. When I got home, I bought a couple of the old guns. They were rare and pricey so I ventured a thought that I could try to make one. I also altered some aspects of it to suit my tastes and built some to take other actions. I posted a pic of one and got several PMs asking “how I did that?”, so I started the tutorial thread. I have learned a lot here and thought I could give something back to help others.
 
joshb said:
Back to stocks. I bedded the mini yesterday and left it overnight. This morning I made the bottom metal template, pulled the barreled action and routed the bottom. I’m making this a Mannlicher style. I ordered a metal end cap for a Ruger and I’ll make it fit. Oregunsmith is on vacation so I have to wait for that bottom metal. I used the plastic mag stuff pattern. I hope it’s the same cut!?!?View attachment 1343536View attachment 1343537
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I hope you will post the final product pictures here! I have a mini and that green plastic stock always depresses me. As to finish on that maple, I saw someone use trans tint dye in yellow. His trick was to dye the wood and sand it down a bunch of times. What that did was bring out the highlights with a higher contrast each time. The end result was spectacular!
 
Fuj said:
Beware a man that owns a Bridgeport and knows how to use it.
That's mine in my avatar.

Butch....How may flutes on the cutter ?? I never liked a 2 flute, but a
4 was more likeable in the top range. And good call on the vacuum.
I made an unwarranted mess a time or two...LOL
Click to expand...
I have several 2 flute carbide edge core box bits. We did put a coat of clear and that helped as we had no tear out or splintering.
1656337540680.png
 
DGP4 said:
I hope you will post the final product pictures here! I have a mini and that green plastic stock always depresses me. As to finish on that maple, I saw someone use trans tint dye in yellow. His trick was to dye the wood and sand it down a bunch of times. What that did was bring out the highlights with a higher contrast each time. The end result was spectacular!
Click to expand...
I will post it if it’s not a disaster. Bc’z is being kind enough to give me pointers for the Trans tint usage. I ordered the barreled action because I HATE plastic stocks!

Looking at the pic above: I take an eighth of an inch in depth at a time and slowly go deeper. I’ll use a 3/4 or 1” core box bit first, then a 1 1/4” bit for the final action cuts. This process reduces tear out.
 
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joshb said:
I will post it if it’s not a disaster. Bc’z is being kind enough to give me pointers for the Trans tint usage. I ordered the barreled action because I HATE plastic stocks!
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Al used https://www.westsystem.com/ for our product. No Titebond, but not saying it isn't good. Vacuum bagging gives a better and more complete clamping. Yes, I have used clamps successfully. Al worked his whole working life at Locheed Martin. He specialized in building wooden fixtures that they formed aluminum sheet into parts for prototype work. He understands the latest ideas in this type work.
Al cut and shaped the stock from the grip back. He did that part in his home shop after I did the fore end and receiver inlet. The first thing we did was establish the rear receiver screw location and everything was machined from there.
 
Wellington said:
58 pages is to much to look through, so I will just ask. What tools would you guys recommend for rough shaping the stock after all the machine work has been done.
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It depends on the style of stock. Some don't have big rounded edges but are more like slabs with the edges rounded (some anschutz smallbore stocks) and others don't have a square corner anywhere. Handplanes, chisels, spokesman as mentioned. Sanders, angle grinder, router, you name it and it will probably work.
 
I use West systems epoxy on all my stocks for gluing up using the slow hardener . Them once stock is machined I use another timber epoxy to seal the timber once sanded before priming and painting. Shaping a stock I use a single cutter than I can turn the cutter blade and change out when it stuffed. Cutting the barrel channel I use an 1 1/4 bore cutter then finish barrel channel with sand paper starting at 80 grit and finishing at 240 . I use the same grit on the stocks before sealing and a bit of rasp and file work to shape grip and forends aswell.
 
joshb said:
Pages 6 & 7. Sheesh! Sorry it’s “too much”.:oops:
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Josh,

Please don't be sorry. If someone can't take the time to read through it, they probably don't have the time to build their own stock either. Although I mentioned it was 58 pages, I have read through most pages and keep going back. Thank you for creating this thread and add so much to this thread, and to others who added info as well (i.e., ButchL, Fuj, et al)
 
liber said:
Josh,

Please don't be sorry. If someone can't take the time to read through it, they probably don't have the time to build their own stock either. Although I mentioned it was 58 pages, I have read through most pages and keep going back. Thank you for creating this thread and add so much to this thread, and to others who added info as well (i.e., ButchL, Fuj, et al)
Click to expand...
You are welcome. Thanks for that. To be completely honest, I go back and read it again too. Occasionally, a lot of time passes between builds. I’ll stand in the shop when starting a new one and think “ now ......how did I do that?”o_O I go read it.
 
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