Do it yourself Stock making thread

[joshb]

I've watched a few of his videos.
He produces an amazing product and makes it look easy.

It IS easy! You just need to learn a few woodworking skills. The purpose of this thread is to show people how easy it is, using some simple tools.
With all my new fancy equipment sitting idle, I made that first table with a Skil saw, a router and a sander.
When making my stocks, I use a router, sander, drill press(a drilling jig would work) and a bandsaw (a jig saw would work).

 

[joshb]

Back to stocks. I bedded the mini yesterday and left it overnight. This morning I made the bottom metal template, pulled the barreled action and routed the bottom. I’m making this a Mannlicher style. I ordered a metal end cap for a Ruger and I’ll make it fit. Oregunsmith is on vacation so I have to wait for that bottom metal. I used the plastic mag stuff pattern. I hope it’s the same cut!?!?

 

[Seagull]

Coming along nicely there bud

 

[Bc'z]

Can't wait to see it finished!!

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

Wow, what a great thread.

@joshb I have a project I'm preparing for, which is a tactical 700 Rem action in 375 CheyTac Improved. The bottom is square, unlike the traditional round Remington 700 action, so I have pondered a few different ideas, and nothing really seems better than using a benchrest stock and routing the inlet out...and then recently I'm thinking to just get a chunk and find a stock to copy. I make handsaws for woodworking, and oddly enough had a crazy idea to use checkering on the grip of the handsaw, that is more specialized that I want to get , I digress...

My first question is are you selling the blanks still? This thread is 56 pages long and your first post stated that you were going to make up some blanks.

Some of the stocks looks pretty nice with curl, walnut is without a doubt one of my favorite woods to work. I would say it's the most forgiving. I have a pattern maker's vise on one end of my bench that I use to make handles in the past, it allows me to turn them anyway, use a spoke shave, rasps, sand, et al. I think I only have 2 tpis for checkering tools, but I probably wouldn't do it to this stock.

I'm building the first bolt on an AICS short action Gen 1.5 chassis, with a viperskins on it. That's how I bought it. I don't even have the barrel yet for the CheyTac, but could be a good time to think about starting the stock while the bolt is being made.

I'll try to go back and see what happened with the stocks blanks you were offering and/or if you still are, but please let me know if you see this.

 

[JeffG]

Tag for reference on a very helpful, well-informed thread, Thanks!

 

[joshb]

Liner: let me ponder.
Josh

 

[Fuj]

Retired tool maker here, with a heavy foundation in fabrication.
We set up my sons large garage with some machines and a Roto-
Phase to keep them 3 phase. So I get to play now. I like my chassis
stocks, and like to get creative on the mill. This is my latest, I'm
actually taking to match's. It's basically a MDT Oryx that I created
a front bag rider and rudder butt stock. A friend of mine is getting
into 3D printing, so we may have something being created in that
arena. Not shown is the internal magazine block. I do this so I can
utilize the Savage PTA center screw.

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

Liner: let me ponder.
Josh

I'd be open to other species, doesn't have to be walnut, but I would hope for premium wood, you had a great looking stock at this link: https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/do-it-yourself-stock-making-thread.3923285/post-38163074

I like that grip with the finger sections, I did an early handsaw handle in maple burl and I made it do it formed the hand and index finger on the saw hand, and I get the impression the soft section under the trigger finger would act in the same manner.

One last thing I wanted to add was, I think it would possibly be awkward but I have pondered having some type of formed grip for the forearm, either a post with finger sections scalloped or scallop the forearm to try and make the grip more comfy...I have a few ideas in regard to that, and something can always be adapter to a stock later, it just takes a bit of pine tar and sawdust!

If you're too busy, get back to me when you have more time. I'm working through my first bolt which will be 6.5 Creedmoor for better or worse. It has a 1.25" straight Kreiger...I would also like to go straight and possibly 2" so not sure if that requires bedding it, or if floating would be best, but I supposed that is up to me when I finish it, if I need to provide space so it will free float. My 6.5 Creedmoor build would be very similar to that 6.5 x 55 in the link above, but with a 31" 1.25" straight barrel. I was planning to just crown it with no brake. Ok, that's way more info that you needed... For the stock I would build myself, it will most likely have a 2" straight barrel, slightly longer but the same with no brake.

That stock looks the shizzle, I can't think of a better stock to have than a beauty like that that one makes for themself.

 

[joshb]

Hi! The stock you pointed out was made from a hunk of Honduran Mohagany a friend gave me. He bought it at a local lumber yard that deals in high end wood. You should look for a local source, if you can. I’ve been picking thru my pile of walnut, pulling the best grain I can find to do the last few for me. Most of what I have left is plain grain. I’ve been looking for better wood myself lately. I’m not sure how many more stocks I’m going to be able to make, and I want to do some nice ones before I’m done. I visited a local furniture guy and bought some instrument grade Tiger Maple slabs. There’s a guy in Australia that sells fine blanks, too. Can’t place his name right now. @old_heli_logger is posting some sweet pieces of Myrtlewood on the sale board. I’ve been tempted to hail him for some blanks. I might just do that soon.
Meanwhile, I’ll look around.

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

Josh,

Does that Myrtlewood come from Oregon? [EDIT: I see he's in Hillsburough, OR ]They seem to have a lock on that stuff...I'll look. I don't mind spending a bit extra to get a really nice piece of wood, in fact I follow a guy on IG that gets some amazing wood, he's up in WI...he would probably pick out a really nice piece of wood...I know it wouldn't be cheap, but that's ok...the time one puts into it really offsets the cost of premium wood, IMO.

I used to know of a guy in Grass Valley, CA but I think he went belly up during the pandemic...like everything else...

What about a template once I have some wood? Are there any available on the inet? I have some 8/4 walnut that is 36" long, I could laminate 2 of them, but it's not curly and anything exotic. I might as well just buy something for the project specific.

 

[Twdmar]

Josh,

Does that Myrtlewood come from Oregon? [EDIT: I see he's in Hillsburough, OR ]They seem to have a lock on that stuff...I'll look. I don't mind spending a bit extra to get a really nice piece of wood, in fact I follow a guy on IG that gets some amazing wood, he's up in WI...he would probably pick out a really nice piece of wood...I know it wouldn't be cheap, but that's ok...the time one puts into it really offsets the cost of premium wood, IMO.

I used to know of a guy in Grass Valley, CA but I think he went belly up during the pandemic...like everything else...

What about a template once I have some wood? Are there any available on the inet? I have some 8/4 walnut that is 36" long, I could laminate 2 of them, but it's not curly and anything exotic. I might as well just buy something for the project specific.

A lot of good stocks have been built with laminated wood. If you bought a piece of quality birch plywood, walnut or hard maple for the center lamination you could glue any kind of wood you wanted to the outside. With a lamination you don't have to worry about grain or anything either. I look for boards with ugly knots because I like them when filled with black epoxy. The hardest part(almost) is deciding to try it. Once you can do that, then try out a 500 dollar blank. If you set up your tools, doing two stocks is not much more work than one.

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

I look for boards with ugly knots because I like them when filled with black epoxy.

I bought 3 pallets of shorts and narrows of hard maple. The guy would buy train cars of it from Canada and his contract only allowed him to deliver clear maple, with no figure or unusual grains. Even birdseye or curl, but he mostly had that set aside. I used a lot of it for handsaw handles and love the figure. I had originally bought it all to build a workbench with, and got enough 6' pieces to make a 6' bench. I have some 8' pieces I was planning for a bed. I have some 3/4 vertical grain paduk that is pretty spectacular, but not sure it would be good for a stock.

Can I ask you, what is the rough dimension that is needed for a stock? I think it would be worth it to invest in a high grade blank, or put one together. Kinda looking around to see what various grades cost.

 

[hoz53]

JDHi! The stock you pointed out was made from a hunk of Honduran Mohagany a friend gave me. He bought it at a local lumber yard that deals in high end wood. You should look for a local source, if you can. I’ve been picking thru my pile of walnut, pulling the best grain I can find to do the last few for me. Most of what I have left is plain grain. I’ve been looking for better wood myself lately. I’m not sure how many more stocks I’m going to be able to make, and I want to do some nice ones before I’m done. I visited a local furniture guy and bought some instrument grade Tiger Maple slabs. There’s a guy in Australia that sells fine blanks, too. Can’t place his name right now. @old_heli_logger is posting some sweet pieces of Myrtlewood on the sale board. I’ve been tempted to hail him for some blanks. I might just do that soon.
Meanwhile, I’ll look around.

are these recent stocks JT models or JD models?

 

[joshb]

are these recent stocks JT models or JD models?

I need more coffee to figure that out.
Liber: Back at the beginning of the thread, the first blank was a piece of 1x6 Maple I bought at Home Depot. I glued it outside a piece of cherry. It wasn’t a great piece but it had a little figure. If you have some nice maple lying around, use that and stain it dark. Twdmar is right. Laminates are good and more stable than a slab. Really nice grain is easier to come by in thinner pieces, too.
The 2 1/4” thickness ya get by glueing 3 -3/4” boards together is perfect for a hunter style. Glue some extra on the forend for a bench type.
6” wide x 32-36” long covers most hunters. Some need 7”.

 

[hoz53]

I need more coffee to figure that out.
Liber: Back at the beginning of the thread, the first blank was a piece of 1x6 Maple I bought at Home Depot. I glued it outside a piece of cherry. It wasn’t a great piece but it had a little figure. If you have some nice maple lying around, use that and stain it dark. Twdmar is right. Laminates are good and more stable than a slab. Really nice grain is easier to come by in thinner pieces, too.
The 2 1/4” thickness ya get by glueing 3 -3/4” boards together is perfect for a hunter style. Glue some extra on the forend for a bench type.
6” wide x 32-36” long covers most hunters. Some need 7”.

geez Im sorry i caused all that effort but its always good to hear how you do stuff. thanks
JT =JoshTexas—— JD=JoshDelaware—— i thinkuknew

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

Really nice grain is easier to come by in thinner pieces, too.

I was looking out in the garage and the walnut I have is about 32"-33" and that was for 2 8/4 pieces, could be 7-1/4" wide. Those are only about 1-1/2" thick.

I have another 8' laminate for 3 x 3/4" hickory that is just about 6", I could get a pretty cool looking striped dark/light, it's hard as nails to work though. I think that would be nice when sanded.

I have a piece of purple heart that is about 12" wide x 6' (3/4"), but I hate to work it, that stuff splinters like crazy and they HURT! lol Also turns dark after the light hits it for a time...

I have a lot of options with what I have, just always looking for something cooler...

The 2 1/4” thickness ya get by glueing 3 -3/4” boards together is perfect for a hunter style. Glue some extra on the forend for a bench type.
6” wide x 32-36” long covers most hunters. Some need 7”.

What about the length on bench? I'm checking with a sawyer in WI about cost, just want to make sure I get one that is long enough.

 

[joshb]

geez Im sorry i caused all that effort but its always good to hear how you do stuff. thanks
JT =JoshTexas—— JD=JoshDelaware—— i thinkuknew

Ahh, thanks! 4 cups now but I was still lost! Texas isn’t working for stocks so far. I’m working in a garage. I’d like to build a small shop addition but this Covid crap and lumber prices stalled that idea. My Delaware shop is all set up for it, soo......

 

[joshb]

I was looking out in the garage and the walnut I have is about 32"-33" and that was for 2 8/4 pieces, could be 12" wide.


What about the length on bench? I'm checking with a sawyer in WI about cost, just want to make sure I get one that is long enough.

If you’re building a Cheytac, I would go longer for that monster. 42-44”? Especially if it’s a straight taper barrel.

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

If you’re building a Cheytac, I would go longer for that monster. 42-44”? Especially if it’s a straight taper barrel.

Yes, thanks for that info. I added some sizes I have, the walnut I have is not long enough. The hickory would be ok if 6" wide would work, I have an 8' piece that was going to be the first of a workbench, but plans changed. That reminds me I do have about 150 bf of 4/4 air dried walnut that was grown locally. Great color, but for some reason it stinks when you work it. Doesn't seem rotted, not sure as I have never had walnut like that.