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Digital caliper reccomendation

RegionRat said:
Not what you asked... but advice I give folks who I like...

Have one that is out and running. The one you let the kids use. The inexpensive one you don't mind replacing... but....

Have the good one you only use when being careful and know you won't bang it up cause it will hurt. This one is the name brand that you put away so the kids won't find it and you only use it when you have your head on straight....

Cheap and disposable but work surprisingly well:
View attachment 1539711
Not cheap or disposable and standard of the art:
View attachment 1539712
YMMV
Click to expand...
The cheap one is the same one that Harbor Freight sells. Good enough for reloading Varmint ammo.
 
RegionRat said:
Not what you asked... but advice I give folks who I like...

Have one that is out and running. The one you let the kids use. The inexpensive one you don't mind replacing... but....

Have the good one you only use when being careful and know you won't bang it up cause it will hurt. This one is the name brand that you put away so the kids won't find it and you only use it when you have your head on straight....

Cheap and disposable but work surprisingly well:
View attachment 1539711
Not cheap or disposable and standard of the art:
View attachment 1539712
YMMV
Click to expand...
i will add that i do have a couple cheap plastic dial calipers that i keep in the main shop for general use. i will likely move the frankford out to the shop for random use. measuring the occasional bolt, tubeing etc. isn't all that much of a problem if they are reading off.
 
I have both a 6" Mitutoya and 6" Starrett. Both are high quality. The Starrett has a nicer feel to it.
X4HF0zAl.jpg
 
I have a cheaper 8” digital for the quick check less concerning work ( you’d be surprised how versatile it is over a 6” ) but I still prefer a quality dial caliper over digital….
 
I've been looking for a digital mitutoyo set on ebay and all I'm seeing is knock offs. I watched a counterfeit video on you tube and it's easy to spot the fakes. The bad part is, most are still asking $100+ for the fakes! I like to shop eBay to save money, but I'm not that dumb. I do my research. Might just have to bite the bullet on this one and order from a reputable company.

I have a nice set of peacock calipers, but they're not digital. Guess it's more of a want than a need at this point.

Makes it kinda hard to shop for mitutoyo anyways since they only have like 7 million different models
 
LVLAaron said:
I got a 12 inch on Amazon from iGaging. They're very nice. Excellent fit/finish. I wouldn't pass them up.

Click to expand...
igaging is what I use for calipers. The ones I have are going on 6-7 years of use. They have auto off. They do not stay 'awake' or 'on' while not in use. One coin battery lasts maybe 12 to 16 months. Everything I need in calipers. If I need a more precise measurement, I goto a micrometer.
 
I've probably got a dozen different calipers, maybe more. I usually grab the iGaging 6 inch for most work where I use a caliper at all. This thread seems to have gone a little different direction than I thought so, to be clear, there's not a thing wrong with buying top end tooling but just understand that it doesn't necessarily make them more accurate today. Like I said before, even the best set is only intended for rough measurements of about +/- .001. If you need more precision, calipers are just not intended for that. None are! And please don't post caliper measurements to tenths or hundred thousandths of an inch. That's resolution, not accuracy. There should be a law against resolution being greater than a tools accuracy capability. Lol! Seriously, it creates a false confidence in thinking you are actually measuring to those resolution numbers.

Bottom line, if money is no problem, ya can never go wrong with good tools, though.
 
What is your calibration interval for frequently used measuring tools?
Even the digitals have mechanical components that can wear and need "adjustment".
What checks do you perform when accurate (not relative) measurements are needed?
Zero is pretty easy, but what about 3.875"? Gear lash in dial, skipped pulses in digital.
Is it the same as a couple years ago, before you dropped it?
Has your "Standard bullet, case, cartridge changed length over the years?
I know, I'm always harping on a meaningful (near your target) check standard.
:)
 
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kyotekiller25 said:
I've been looking for a digital mitutoyo set on ebay and all I'm seeing is knock offs. I watched a counterfeit video on you tube and it's easy to spot the fakes. The bad part is, most are still asking $100+ for the fakes! I like to shop eBay to save money, but I'm not that dumb. I do my research. Might just have to bite the bullet on this one and order from a reputable company.

I have a nice set of peacock calipers, but they're not digital. Guess it's more of a want than a need at this point.

Makes it kinda hard to shop for mitutoyo anyways since they only have like 7 million different models
Click to expand...
Unknown munitions carries the real ones.
@INTJ is a manager and may have additional input.
 
Rocketvapor said:
What is your calibration interval for frequently used measuring tools?
Even the digitals have mechanical components that can wear and need "adjustment".
What checks do you perform when accurate (not relative) measurements are needed?
Zero is pretty easy, but what about 3.875"? Gear lash in dial, skipped pulses in digital.
Is it the same as a couple years ago, before you dropped it?
Has your "Standard bullet, case, cartridge changed length over the years?
I know, I'm always harping on a meaningful (near your target) check standard.
:)
Click to expand...
For me, it depends on how much it gets used and what for but definitely after a drop. That's another reason not to spend a great deal on calipers, imho. I never send in a $50 set and the geared ones, Mits, B&S and Starretts, more than the electronic. Electronics are all decent these days. Some are a more precise fit of the frame etc and close more squarely than cheaper ones will. When I first got into tool and die for a living, you'd get laughed out of the shop for bringing anything digital in there. Now, it's 95% of all tooling in a shop. That may be over stating it but not a lot and I'm sure you get the point. Pretty much always have one of the common stuff that gets used very little, just for the super critical things, that are serviced and ready to go but they also get sent in the least probably, to be honest.
 
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I've got both igaging and mitutoyo (and some cheap ones as well). I use the analog ones, not the digital ones. I find myself reaching for the igaging more than I do the mitutoyo. The mitutoyo's only seem to get used when the igaging are already being used for something else. I know it is sacrilege but I prefer the igaging.
 
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