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"corners" of primer pockets

I use a Lyman uniformer fixed depth to clean pockets and notice it cuts a lil every firing on Peterson and Hornady brass.
With lapua 6br brass I noticed the uniformer don't touch or cut the pockets, it's taken a lot for me to overcome but I haven't tumbled or dressed pockets in a couple cycles with no loss in X count percentage.

What I have done with the new Alpha brass was to just toss it in the Lyman vibratory machine with corncob media. I originally went that route to remove the Imperial sizing wax but I noticed that it reduced the pocket fouling to a minimum.

I have new Alpha cases in 6 Dasher and 22 Creed. They both have the slightly narrowed primer pockets.
 
I uniform the pocket with the Sinclair tool. Not sure why I do this anymore because I have seen no difference on target with uniformed versus non-uniformed pockets.

I clean the pockets every reload cycle using the Sinclair uniform tool. It cleans the corners and produces a completely clean pocket without carbon if the pocket was previously uniformed. Again, I am not sure this is necessary (to clean to that degree), but I do it. Probably because I read it one time on the net that the accuracy "boogie man" will get you if you don't do it.

PS: I am trying to curb my somewhat irrational and anal behavior when it comes to reloading and cleaning a rifle. Thus far I have made progress on cleaning a rifle, but I have work to do on reloading. Once contaminated with the net, it's hard to reform. I thought about joining "Anal Reloaders Anonymous" but have yet to join. :( :oops: :confused: :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the advice everyone! I'm probably going to grab a K&M or 21st century and uniform them with my cordless drill. Then going forward, I'll clean them by hand. Anyone every have a problem with the depth that is pre set in the K&M?
The one from 21st Century is provided with a cutter for both small and large primer pockets. The depth is user adjustable.
 
I have always used Sinclair's large and small pocket uniform cutters to keep the pockets clean. However, my new Alpha brass has pockets that are just a shade too tight to use the Sinclair tool. Primers seat fine but the Sinclair tool would have to be forced into the pocket which would likely gall the brass when spinning.

Has anyone else ever experienced this?
yes.
 
In the 60's, Guns & Ammo did a Accuracy Primer pocket test, Clean VS Not Cleaned in multiple rifles,multiple calibers for Groups, the Not cleaned had Better Groups across the Board. Maybe someone can Pull it up on internet.
 
In the 60's, Guns & Ammo did a Accuracy Primer pocket test, Clean VS Not Cleaned in multiple rifles,multiple calibers for Groups, the Not cleaned had Better Groups across the Board. Maybe someone can Pull it up on internet.
I'd be interested in reading that. The brass in question was fired 3 times, and it looks built up. After a while wouldn't you run into seating depth issues with the primer not bottoming out?
 
I don't clean primer pockets anymore, only uniform them. If the K&M uniformer leaves stuff, then its below the primer cup anyway. I also quit cleaning brass altogether aside from dry brushing inside necks before sizing and seating. My brass doesn't land in the dirt, so it just gets wiped down during the loading process.

To each their own.
 
Since I'm one of those fanatical OCD ; FTR Shooters who goes to extremes about everything , I do uniform pockets on New Brass , and run the primer pocket tool a few twists when processing fired brass , to get the gunk out .
I use Sinclair "adjustable" tool-heads , and it gives allowance to keep the base of the pocket flat and clean .
For those who say it shortens brass life , by enlarging the pockets , I tend to disagree , since I'm currently running at forty re-loads on my "practice Brass" of roughly 600 cases I've been using for about seven years now . I do find that I will lose about 3 - 5 cases out of every 100 rounds now , that will no longer secure a standard SRP , and then they go to the box for Genis primers , that will give me 4 - 6 more reloads , before no longer useable .
I anneal after every firing , and have never had a split neck , or ; Knock on wood , a Case separation .
My loads are slightly above moderate Competition loads , keeping my velocities around 2,670fps on a 185gr Berger , and 2,640 - 2,650fps for a 200gr Berger .
 
Just like the case/primer pocket dimension the tools all have tolerances so the one tool will have different dimensions than another. in the OP's case the new tool diameter is less than the old tool.
 
Yes I had the same issue with my K&M tool on Alpha PPC brass. A quick call to Pat at PMA and I received a tool to correct the issue. He offered either his PMA uniformer that is not adjustable for depth or the Benchrite which is. I went with the Benchrite and couldn’t be happier.
same here, did you see that the pma tool left an step in the primer pocket? my primers wouldnt go any deeper since they were setting on the top of the step. my pma tool is a bit deeper than my sinclair also, about .005
 
same here, did you see that the pma tool left an step in the primer pocket? my primers wouldnt go any deeper since they were setting on the top of the step. my pma tool is a bit deeper than my sinclair also, about .005
I went with the Benchrite tool instead of the PMA tool. There were 2 reasons for going with the Benchrite. 1 was cost and 2 was adjustability. The PMA tool is non adjustable.

I didn’t notice a step in my pockets, but will look at it closer again when I get a chance.
 
As a small follow on to Monte's note above, nitrile coated grippy gloves make the job a LOT better/more comfortable. Makes trimming better too!
Being able to handle the cases is a good thing.

Hope this is useful,

Frank
Keep those away from cleaning brushes on anything with a motor. If it catches the knit part it will mess you up.
 
I can't remember the last time I cleaned a primer pocket, probably been decades. Although I don't do so now, I used a progressive press loading for Highpower competition for some 20 years and unless there's some new model, there isn't a station for cleaning pockets that I know of...........
 
I've used the K&M small pocket uniformer, first to uniform, then if need be, to clean them quickly before putting new primers.

The nitrile gloves help a lot, to hold the case, and I use a drill motor for the uniformer.

If my cases start grabbling and spinning, I use small amount of Rem-oil, I put in a shallow receptacle and I dip the cutting head into the oil before I use it in the primer pocket, helps tremendously to eliminate the grabbing.

First real problematic cased I had were Hornady 17 Hornet, OMG those pockets were made too tight, and would not accept primers well at all, so it was necessary to uniform them. And they are hard to hold onto, because they're really small. But the oil did the trick. I use the bottom of a prescription bottle, mine have a shallow dip, perfect for a little pool of oil. YMMV
 
I have one gun I use the pocket uniformer on, the rest are done with an RCBS Brush on a prep ctr, if I decide to clean the pockets. Ran cleaned and not, off and on over the years, never detected any worthwhile difference. Cleaning primer pockets depends more on if I feel like doing it than anything else, usually right after decapping. An adaptor that screwed into a prep ctr for the uniformer would be useful. I have a spare set of Sinclair's I may get ambitious one day and drill and tap them to do that and try that out.
 
1/8" brass dremel for .223

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Since I'm one of those fanatical OCD ; FTR Shooters who goes to extremes about everything ,

I was asked to help a guy troubleshoot a rifle's failure to fire at the range one day. Rifle inspection didn't show anything obviously wrong. Ammo check showed his primers seated way, way deep. Like .040" or more deep. The guy said it was once-fired factory brass, and admitted that his OCD wouldn't allow him to shoot if there was any speck of contamination in his primer pockets. Couldn't really say much other than he was causing his own problems.
 

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