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Competition primer seater

It's a fine piece of machinery and really can prime a lot fast. Really easy on the hands.

1. It does not take into account primer thickness variation
2. It does not take into account rim thickness variation.

The only one that I know if that does this is from k&m.

Does it matter? Well that's for you to decide.
View attachment 1587776
There is about a $300 add on to the primal rights unit that can be purchased. Another manufacturer. This will allow you to seat primers by a dial indicator. This seats off bottom of primer pocket. No need to measure primer height. Seating by varied crush can be achieved. While the above referenced unit works, it is slow in comparison. All other primer seaters, ugly base cps and rcbs with hollands upgrade seats by coming to a hardtop. Absolutely no difference. Rim thickness and primer variation are the 2 issues with a hardstop device. They simply won't work. You have 2 choices..the least expensive being the above reference unit K&M. The other is the F Class products upgrade for the primal rights unit. While most rims are close, 10 out of 50 pcs of brass will be .004 to .005 off 1 way or other.
 
There is about a $300 add on to the primal rights unit that can be purchased. Another manufacturer. This will allow you to seat primers by a dial indicator. No need to measure primer height. Seating by varied crush can be achieved. While the above referenced unit works, it is slow in comparison. All other primer seaters, ugly base cps and rcbs with hollands upgrade seats by coming to a hardtop. Absolutely no difference. Rim thickness and primer variation are the 2 issues with a hardstop device. They simply won't work. You have 2 choices..the least expensive being the above reference unit K&M. The other is the F Class products upgrade for the primal rights unit. While most rims are close, 10 out of 50 pcs of brass will be .004 to .005 off 1 way or other.
Primer pocket depths is another. Just worked through this with a customer. Seating to a hard stop was causing bad fliers. I had a lot of federal primers that varied .008" in overall height. Thats a lot of variation. No matter the tool, if you want to seat to a hard stop everything must be sorted and batched accordingly and the tool adjusted to maintain crush. A consistent depth below flush is only desirable if the pocket depths and primer heights are all the same to ensure consistent crush. I do have a lot of customers that use a tool that seats to a hard stop. But they put in a lot of work to measure and sort everything to be successful at it. If your not willing to do all that your far better off seating by feel in my opinion.
 
Primer pocket depths is another. Just worked through this with a customer. Seating to a hard stop was causing bad fliers. I had a lot of federal primers that varied .008" in overall height. Thats a lot of variation. No matter the tool, if you want to seat to a hard stop everything must be sorted and batched accordingly and the tool adjusted to maintain crush. A consistent depth below flush is only desirable if the pocket depths and primer heights are all the same to ensure consistent crush. I do have a lot of customers that use a tool that seats to a hard stop. But they put in a lot of work to measure and sort everything to be successful at it. If your not willing to do all that your far better off seating by feel in my opinion.
Even uniforming pockets and sorting primer height still leaves 1 other thing. Rim thickness. Hard to change that other than throw them away.

When seating a primer into a case, the case is pushed away from the incoming primer.
if the grooves are not all cut the same.....from base of cartridge...you can see the problem with a hard stop unit.
 
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Even uniforming pockets and sorting primer height still leaves 1 other thing. Rim thickness. Hard to change that other than throw them away.

When seating a primer into a case, the case is pushed away from the incoming primer.
if the grooves are not all cut the same.....from base of cartridge...you can see the problem with a hard stop unit.
Thats correct. But those are easily sorted out by checking the below flush measurements. So IF you use a hard stop tool, you should sort primers by height, uniform pockets, adjust the tool for the different height primers to maintain crush then check the seated depth of the primers. I have guys that do all that and shoot extremely well. But if you dont do all that you can end up with some bad fliers if your working with components that are not very consistent. There could even be a small advantage if you do all that work. Especially if you dont have confidence in seating by feel.
 
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Thats correct. But those are easily sorted out by checking the below flush measurements. So IF you use a hard stop tool, you should sort primers by height, uniform pockets, adjust the tool for the different height primers to maintain crush then check the seated depth of the primers. I have guys that do all that and shoot extremely well. But if you dont do all that you can end up with some bad fliers if your working with components that are not very consistent. There could even be a small advantage if you do all that work. Especially if you dont have confidence in seating by feel.
Imo..with F class upgrade...uniform pockets seat to bottom and add crush. No primer measuring or sorting. I may be leaving something on the table yer as far as accuracy. But it seems to work for me. We are on same page..hard stops alone won't work.
 
The first thing anybody who is trying to sell you something has to convince you of is what you are using simply is not good enough.

The internet, especially You Tube Videos, is great at doing this.
“Best in the business”
“First in quality”
“Last one you will ever own”
“Easy to afford”
“Why waste time and money on other lesser quality products”

Etc. etc. etc.


While I cannot say whether or not this specific product is better than anyone else’s product. A product’s value is in the eye of a past purchaser , user , or potential customer (sucker) .
Ones yearly income versus thier own debt to income ratio has a direct value that can be put on products. We have become a society of people that purchase items way outside their means just to keep up with the Jones’s.

My statement above are in no way a slam on the above product nor and endorsement. I have a few people close to me in my personal life who have made major purchases (five year incursions of commitment of debt) all of those could have very well spent their money a lot differently in my opinion. (Yes opinions are like assholes).

Buy what makes you happy ,as long as it’s within your means and fall within your personal boundaries of risk of loss assessment.

“You pays your money and takes your chances”.

That unknown quote rings true with everything.

Sorry for the rant.
 
Even uniforming pockets and sorting primer height still leaves 1 other thing. Rim thickness. Hard to change that other than throw them away.

When seating a primer into a case, the case is pushed away from the incoming primer.
if the grooves are not all cut the same.....from base of cartridge...you can see the problem with a hard stop unit.
Yeah. This is why I like my Lee ACP tool so much, because it takes the extractor grooves out of the equation and produces really consistent seating depths.

They're no longer made by Lee, though Lee does sell their Deluxe APP press kit that will a little effort can actually be converted to operate the same as the ACP.

Like what F-Class John has done, I've added a little modification where the seating depth can be adjusted and have two separate assemblies, one for LRP's and one for SRP's, so it's a easy matter to switch them out and not change the setting for either.
 
I think the only thing you'll gain is "A Cross Eyed look from your Wife"
Funny….my wife bought one for me and I thought, until I used it, that she got suckered. I was wrong. I won’t go back to hand priming ever again.
@TylerFromMS I know what you mean about the shuttle. However, I fixed that by routing a rubber band from the shellholder base to the shuttle handle. That keeps the shuttle in the ‘primer seating position’. When I return the seating handle rearward (after seating a primer), I push the shuttle handle back with my thumb to the stop and release it. It captures another primer ans snaps into ‘battery’, ready to seat the primer. It really speeds things up. I’ll shoot a pick when I’m back at the shop and text it to you.
 
I like my PCPS.

zkHGkRDl.jpg
 
What do you all think. Is the primal rights competition primer seater worth the money? I can’t decide. I don’t shoot competitions anymore but I do live fine tooling. I have a shop full of the best equipment I can afford. I’m just having a hard time pulling the trigger on one of these. I’m sure I’d love it but will I gain from it?
Lee Gardner Precision
I have used it now for 1 month and primed over 1100 rounds (two rifles loaded for nationals). One day I primed over 600 rounds and I have bad arthritis in my hands. Previously, using my RCBS hand primer, I could never do more than 70-80 per day or my hands and fingers would start hurting so bad that I wouldn’t be able to load for a couple of days. Personally, I find that I’m able to hold less than +/-.001” with primer depth under flush. I’ve had no opportunity to actually review my ES/SD since loading with the CPS, because chronographs are not allowed on the line for most competitions.
Dave
 
Slower!!??? o_O Really???:rolleyes: It's escapes me how it could possibly be slower than an handheld primer seater.
I was almost 50% faster using my handheld RCBS primer tool, versus the CPS. I just can’t possibly think of any way to prime brass that would be faster that the RCBS hand tool. Doesn’t make it accurate and certainly is no good for my hands, but it is fast.
Dave
 
uglyreloadingusa.com not a bit sorry for getting it. the next thing needed is the tube filler . not a bit sorry for getting that either
 

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