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Cleaning outside case necks

My SRBR mentor started me on Nevr Dull. Worked well but the solvent evaporates quickly even when closing the lid immediately after removing a wad. Tried a bunch of solvents to rejuvenate the wadding without success- BBS works but it evaporates too. I have 3 cans half-full of wadding. Have used Krazy Kloth and the trick is to cut the cloth in smaller strips and continue using the same strip as the more you use it the better it works. I won't use steel wool as those steel fibers are like dust and I don't want that in a barrelled rifle action especially one that costs $ 3 K. Lately I have resorted to simply wiping the case necks with a patch dampened with BBS or Hoppes #9. If cleaned by the end of the day the carbon has not yet hardened and wipes off easily.
 
I wipe the outside of the neck with a soft cloth and acetone prior to using an AMP annealer. This gets most of the carbon off but over several firings, the neck residue builds up. Idk if this affects the seal of the brass and chamber wall, but I don’t like it to build up. I don’t tumble brass since I prefer the carbon inside the neck for a dry lube for seating bullets and to prevent case weld. I found a scotch pad wheel for my dremel and going around the case several times, all the built up carbon is gone. One wheel lasts 100 rounds and you can buy two in a pack at Lowe’s for $5. After doing this the first time, I shot my PB midrange match 598-38 in FTR so I’m saying it does not harm the brass and may even help.
 
If only there was an inexpensive device ($53) that you could dump your brass into and turn it on, and all the carbon just gets vibrated off sparkly clean in an hour with zero finger twisting/rubbing, just dump it and go. Then later, to get sizing lube off, dump it back in for 20 more minutes. Hundreds of cases all at once! The lengths people go to avoid using such a thing...
 
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This does not need to be complicated, and you don't need secret solutions or cloths. It is very simple, a few twists with 0000 steel wool removes the carbon residue. I have been doing this forever and it works very simply and effectively.

There are a few things I really feel that are essential in reloading bottle neck rifle cases and removing that carbon build up on the necks is one of them. You DO NOT want to run unclean cases in your sizing dies. If your tumbler removes it, fine, mine never did to the level I felt necessary.
Just have to leave it in the tumbler for 2-3 weeks. Gets it all off every time.
:p
 
Lyman with flitz. That will only guarantee removing it if you do it before annealing. TBH if you anneal without removing carbon or leave any oil on it, it burns that stuff right on there for me. Krazy Kloth and solvents/polishes I have used also leave a brownish-blackish discoloration on cases (that were perfectly clean) after annealing. There is no performance difference based on this, but I hate the way that looks when everyone else is dumping golden waterfalls of mirror polished brass onto their bench and snickering at me. ;)
 
I use Ballistol or alcohol on a paper towel to clean the fouling from fired case necks, anneal and then go over the necks with a couple of twists of gray scotch-brite to remove any oxidation from the annealing process before applying wax and sizing.
 
Do you guys have issues with your brass if you size after annealing without removing that oxidation? I don't remove it after annealing and don't have any problems that I've noticed
 
Before and after, just finished about 10 minutes ago.
 

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I just use a white scotch brite pad and a little bit of my favorite carbon cleaning chemical. The white scotch brite is not abrasive enough to damage necks, and the barrel cleaning chems are meant for carbon.
 

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