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Chamber flush system build log.

Here's the easy button. Just add a few magnets and a settling pond.
The Graymills 1/8 HP pump is what came with my Haas. The emersion style pumps can run continuously. Just turn coolant on and off as needed.




I thought the typical lathe coolant pump was designed to run water based coolant vs cutting oil? I know that the supplied coolant pump on the PM 1440 GT won't run continuously for more than about 10 minutes when pumping oil without throwing the thermal breaker. I like that $179 system you linked to, but will it hold up to 30 minutes of pumping cutting oil?
 
Anyone use water soluble coolant for their chamber reaming operation. I have a small cnc milling machine and use Hangsterfer's S500 CF coolant in the coolant system. I also use it with the built in coolant sump and pump in my manual lathe. The coolant pump on my lathe is all built into the machine and is prett much like the ones Mr. Tooley posted. Not sure if the pressure would be high enough but they have plenty of volume coming out of a 1/2" hose.

 
I thought the typical lathe coolant pump was designed to run water based coolant vs cutting oil? I know that the supplied coolant pump on the PM 1440 GT won't run continuously for more than about 10 minutes when pumping oil without throwing the thermal breaker. I like that $179 system you linked to, but will it hold up to 30 minutes of pumping cutting oil?

Curious what kind of oil you're running in yours?
 
Anyone use water soluble coolant for their chamber reaming operation. I have a small cnc milling machine and use Hangsterfer's S500 CF coolant in the coolant system. I also use it with the built in coolant sump and pump in my manual lathe. The coolant pump on my lathe is all built into the machine and is prett much like the ones Mr. Tooley posted. Not sure if the pressure would be high enough but they have plenty of volume coming out of a 1/2" hose.


I have a friend that does. He uses the lathe's regular pump and a synthetic water soluble (SYN4300) It does the job for him... He said if he had to do it over again he'd use oil, but his machine is in his house and doesn't want it smelling like a machine shop.
 
Anyone use water soluble coolant for their chamber reaming operation. I have a small cnc milling machine and use Hangsterfer's S500 CF coolant in the coolant system.
A friend runs it in his CNC’s. I have a 5 gallon bucket of the S-500-CF he gave me that I haven’t had a chance to use yet. I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work. It’s similar to some of the Rustlic product that some were using (Nat Lambeth aka @Rustystud ).
 
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A friend runs it in his CNC’s. I have a 5 gallon bucket of the S-500-CF he gave me that I haven’t had a chance to use yet. I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work. It’s similar to some of the Rustlik product that some were using (Nat Lambeth aka rustystud).

I really like the coolant and have been using it for years at the last couple of shops I have worked at. It doesn't stink and stays good in the sumps for quite some time. It's easy on the hands working with it all day. It also doesn't peel the paint off your machine like some other coolants I've been around do.

I might just have to get some parts rounded up to give it a try and see if the built in coolant system on my manual lathe has enough flow/pressure to get the job done.

John
 
I chose coolant because it's the modern way to cut metal. Barrel flush was a secondary use case for me. I saw water-based coolant used almost exclusively in the CNC shops I've been around so I wanted to set up my lathe (and to a lesser extent, my mill where I use coolant with a misting nozzle) to use it for general purpose machining.

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IIRC, at least one reamer company (JGS?) says to use oil with their reamers, not a water based coolant. Not sure how big of a deal that is, but that is what is driving me to oil instead of coolant.
 
IIRC, at least one reamer company (JGS?) says to use oil with their reamers, not a water based coolant. Not sure how big of a deal that is, but that is what is driving me to oil instead of coolant.
Coolant is for extreme rpm applications, but as you see above it works just fine. Its more for heat than lubricity
 
but that is what is driving me to oil instead of coolant.
Nat Lambeth @Rustystud has said he has had reamers go to 1500 chambers cut with Rustlic

In 2005 I built a high pressure flush coolant system. The engineers at Rustlic put me on to Rustlic 255R cut 5:1. I have chambered over 5,000 barrels with 50 gallons of recycled coolant. Rustlic 255R is no longer available. The engineers at Rustlic recommended that I convert to UltraCut Pro. May change it out today. Have about 4 gallons of coolant left in my reservoir. I think that I have gotten my moneys worth. I have several reamers with over 1500 chambers cut with no regrind. Recently I broke a flute on a 6.5/300 Weatherby reamer. This was the first reamer that I have ever broken. There was no chamber damage and I believe the reamer had a existing crack at the root.

I am convinced that through barrel flush coolant is the best way to go if your going to do multiple barrels per month.

Nat Lambeth
 
For those who dont use neat cutting oil may be interested.
What coolant or cutting fluid should be used with BBT chamber reamers?
Always use a neat cutting oil and never use a water based cutting fluid. Water based cutting fluids are fine for use on a lathe or milling machine when turning or milling, but have no place in reaming operations of any sort where a fine finish and good tool life is expected. The difference is not marginal - we have seen reamers effectively worn out and ruined after cutting just one chamber when using water based cutting fluids, whereas the same reamer will cut many barrels with virtually no observable wear when using a neat cutting oil. (Yes, we have done the test...)

Neat cutting oils having a high sulphur content are available and popular in the United States for reaming, but sulphur based cutting oils tend to be a breeding ground for sulphur loving bacteria and so such oils can go "off" pretty quickly and start smelling of rotten eggs. Sulphur based cutting oils are also not generally available in Europe. However, highly chlorinated 'extreme pressure' cutting oils such as used in deep hole drilling are offered by all the oil companies. I have found these to be very effective as cutting oils in reaming operations. In particular, I have found the Miller Oils "Millicut CAS 14" to be dermatologically friendly and this is the oil we recommend...this is a article from Dr Geoffrey Kolbe of Border Ballistic Technologies.Scotland.he used to own Border Barrels.now called Sassen.
 
Coolant is for extreme rpm applications, but as you see above it works just fine. Its more for heat than lubricity
Coolant (oil or water soluble) provides A)heat removal, B)shaving evacuation C) lubricity.
Oil lubes better then heat removal, water soluble does not have near the lube properties......
On machine reamers, I have noticed over the years, depending on material, reaming a hole with coolant, will cause the hole to be undersized by .0001 (as noticed with gauge pins)
Just something to think about.
 
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Heat should not be an issue when reaming a chamber, unless you ream the "old fashioned way" (squirt some oil in the 'hole', coat the reamer with oil and cut until the flutes load), or allow the flutes to load under any circumstances. IMO another way to build heat is to 'baby' the tool, which means you let it rub more than you allow it to cut (take too fine a cut). If you are using a muzzle flush, the flow over the tool will keep it cool (whether its oil or water based), unless you don't have enough flow to flush the cuttings. I cut a .280Ackley chamber yesterday in a SS Brux barrel. I use a muzzle flush. Drilled and pre-bored, 200rpm, 12psi on the muzzle flush. I pulled the reamer several times, no cuttings in the flutes, as I was reaming I could see the cuttings flowing into the chip pan with the oil. I'm using a blend of dark cutting oil and Tap Magic w/EP Extra. After drilling and pre-bore the reaming and setting head space took 25 minutes. 12psi provided plenty of flow through that 7mm barrel to clear the cuttings without making a mess. (I don't normally time myself or set the muzzle flush to a specific psi. I just set the flush enough to clear the cuttings and let the reamer tell me how fast to feed it.)
 
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I know JGS recommended oil. It's in the document below, even though they misspelled Ridgid. From the document.

"In our testing process, when tools are sent back, we take gun barrel stubs from top quality
barrel makers and test the reamers in a hartige (sp) tool room lathe with a 6 station hand
turrett with variable speed so we can match up with anyones rpm that they desire to run it.
Cutting fluid is rigid (see cheat sheet) which brings of the sulphurs, chlorides and parafins of
the oils. These are all additives that make the reamer cut freely."

JGS Tool RPM
 

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