Chamber flush system build log.

[Dusty Stevens]

This. I can't pull it off the end of the barrel if I try. If it blows off, it wasn't properly installed.
Then again, I'm only running 45 psi max there. I wouldn't use it with a high pressure pump.

Far as not needing a filter, I'll stick with it...
Even though I'm using an actual coolant tank with baffle separating the return area, and it's not likely with a low flow volume that chips would cross over- my concern was never about damaging the pump/impeller, it's about grabbing an errant chip when reinserting the reamer. Even with prefilters/magnets in the catch tray some stuff gets by- esp stainless where the magnets are useless.

Your stainless barrels are not magnetic?

 

[shortgrass]

That thing is a big "nope" from me. I can see pushing the reamer in, pressure going up, and everything left of me in the shop getting a bath.

I'll either tap the barrel, or make an adapter to use silicon hose and clamp it over the end of the barrel.

If Ya' think ya' need to run that much pressure, ya' need to make a more positive connection, but ya' really don't need more than 40-45psi . I never see much of a pressure increase when the pilot enters the bore. It's about volume, not pressure. After I have the reamer 1/2 way buried , I remove the pilot anyway for more volume.

 

[Edd]

I don't see a need for any filter. It will only restrict the flow, and flow is the key, not pressure.

A filter could restrict the flow but it doesn't have to. You just need to choose one that has a high enough flow rate.

 

[LVLAaron]

I chose a 250psi 22gpm hydraulic filter for the final setup. I'm sure that will be fine and I'll sleep much better at night.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Put good magnets in your drain pan and dont worry about a filter. I guess a diaphragm pump i would but that would just be long enough to get a centrifugal pump

 

[xr650rRider]

If your using a thin pad like a cake pan, put your magnets under the pan and the fine cuttings will stick to the bottom and not your magnet. If it has to go inside, put it in a plastic bag. My drain is 1" and I put them all the way around the drain. I use the rare earth that are about the size of a quarter.

Rare earth magnets

 

[Ksracer]

Here's my drain pan. I welded an aluminum tray to the bottom of a pizza pan and then slid a tool magnet in. Most of the chips never leave the pan. I've got a plastic filter housing with a mesh screen in the return hose that is also surrounded by magnets to catch the smaller particles
I bored the end of a 1/4" shd40 pipe to about 3/8" and then fit an o-ring to the outside of a spring loaded plunger with an airgun tip on it. I just push the rubber tip into the factory center that barrels come with and lock the pipe down into a holder in the rear of my spindle. Since the end with the 3/8" plunger has more surface area exposed to oil than the end with the rubber tip, as pressure rises, there is a differential in force that tries to extend the plunger. The higher the pressure, the more force that is developed to push the rubber tip into the barrel.
It's never leaked a drop.
I can't imagine a faster way to seal your flush system to the barrel. It's literally 5 seconds and done with no pre-drilling or tapping.

 

[tac284]

Here's my drain pan. I welded an aluminum tray to the bottom of a pizza pan and then slid a tool magnet in. Most of the chips never leave the pan. I've got a plastic filter housing with a mesh screen in the return hose that is also surrounded by magnets to catch the smaller particles View attachment 1360989
I bored the end of a 1/4" shd40 pipe to about 3/8" and then fit an o-ring to the outside of a spring loaded plunger with an airgun tip on it. I just push the rubber tip into the factory center that barrels come with and lock the pipe down into a holder in the rear of my spindle. Since the end with the 3/8" plunger has more surface area exposed to oil than the end with the rubber tip, as pressure rises, there is a differential in force that tries to extend the plunger. The higher the pressure, the more force that is developed to push the rubber tip into the barrel.
It's never leaked a drop.
I can't imagine a faster way to seal your flush system to the barrel. It's literally 5 seconds and done with no pre-drilling or tapping.
View attachment 1360990View attachment 1360991

Nice, almost the same as I run, usually 8-10” up inside the headstock because of the TBAC. I took an old 300 ultra mag barrel, drilled and tapped one end for the air tip and then used a Mosmatic pressure washer rotary Union on the other.

What lathe you have there?

 

[Ksracer]

Nice, almost the same as I run, usually 8-10” up inside the headstock because of the TBAC. I took an old 300 ultra mag barrel, drilled and tapped one end for the air tip and then used a Mosmatic pressure washer rotary Union on the other.

What lathe you have there?

It's a Kingston HJ-1700. It was made in 1993. They still make the identical model and nearly every part is stocked in California.

 

[tac284]

It's a Kingston HJ-1700. It was made in 1993. They still make the identical model and nearly every part is stocked in California.

Oh man, I got my first look at a Kingston HJ1700 a few years back at a shop I was touring. Looked like a well built lathe. I believe it was a 2000 model. Kingston HD is on my list as a replacement for at work.

 

[Machinist John]

Left hand threads

Teflon insert in the nose of the rotating spindle to seal.

Two O rings inside the black sleeve

Hose from pan to 10 gallon sump behind lathe. Centrifugal pump submerged in the sump. Sump is baffled internally and has a 4 inch diameter screen in the return flow to capture chips. Tygon clear hose, fuel and oil resistant.

This home brew system has worked flawlessly for over 25 years.

Soluble oil with EP additives. I mix it 50:50. Standard machine shop stuff.

I have an extension that goes through the headstock if needed for short barrels.

 

[LVLAaron]

Clever setup on the outboard end.

 

[INTJ]

What about this pump? Is being hear driven an issue?

Amazon.com

 

[LVLAaron]

What about this pump? Is being hear driven an issue?

Amazon.com

If my math is right it's 45psi - just a guess but that might be about right. I'd let the experienced guys give their two cents on that one. I certainly don't have 15 amps of 24v in the shop though

 

[xr650rRider]

If it could deliver 3.2 gpm at 43.5 psig (0.3 MPa) that would be more than enough but I suspect that's max pressure when deadheaded. When the fluid comes out of the barrel, that's at atmospheric pressure or 0 psig. Everything behind that is friction losses due to your piping. So what are you going to have in the way that robs your flow? You have to keep in mind that anything is better than having to continually pull your reamer and hand clean it. What is apparent from this thread, is nobody uses the exact same setup. I'm betting a 24 volt power supply that will do 10 amps, or 2 - 12 volt batteries, battery charger, will push it up to the price of other pumps.

 

[DaveTooley]

Here's the easy button. Just add a few magnets and a settling pond.
The Graymills 1/8 HP pump is what came with my Haas. The emersion style pumps can run continuously. Just turn coolant on and off as needed.

Coolant Pump with 3 Gallon Tank - 1/8 HP NW55CP3

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/79493904

Machine Tool Coolant Pumps - Industrial Coolant Pumps | Graymills

Graymills manufactures & supplies machine tool coolant pumps for fluid handling and filtration. Visit our site to see our products & contact us for any questions today!

www.graymills.com

 

[Walt Krafft]

I added this system to my old lathe that did not have a coolant system. Works great for regular coolant use plus through barrel coolant.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[xr650rRider]

Precision Matthews sells a couple as well. I've got the cheaper one but I've never even hooked it up, so can't attest to how well it works.

QMT coolant systems

 

[LVLAaron]

I've got the QMT pump for my mill. It works.

Dave has got me talked into running light oil on my lathe's built in pump (it's an 1/8th hp pump). I doubt I'll use it for chambering but it'll be nice to have a little flow for parting and threading.

 

[INTJ]

If it could deliver 3.2 gpm at 43.5 psig (0.3 MPa) that would be more than enough but I suspect that's max pressure when deadheaded. When the fluid comes out of the barrel, that's at atmospheric pressure or 0 psig. Everything behind that is friction losses due to your piping. So what are you going to have in the way that robs your flow? You have to keep in mind that anything is better than having to continually pull your reamer and hand clean it. What is apparent from this thread, is nobody uses the exact same setup. I'm betting a 24 volt power supply that will do 10 amps, or 2 - 12 volt batteries, battery charger, will push it up to the price of other pumps.

My lathe has 24VDC power terminals.