• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Chamber flush system build log.

Dr Geoffrey Kolbe is an authority in engineering especially rifles.his cut rifled barrels were excellent.his chamber reamers and tooling are excellent also.he may be a little eccentric but a real craftsman,meticulous.so knowledgeable.i would pretty much put everything I own on what he said about cutting oil vs water based coolant for chamber reamers he would have done the test.
 
Carl S said:
Dr Geoffrey Kolbe is an authority in engineering especially rifles.his cut rifled barrels were excellent.his chamber reamers and tooling are excellent also.he may be a little eccentric but a real craftsman,meticulous.so knowledgeable.i would pretty much put everything I own on what he said about cutting oil vs water based coolant for chamber reamers he would have done the test.
Click to expand...
That may be so, but when I hear him claim that a single chambering will ruin a reamer, then I have to be skeptical as this is the opposite of my experience. I've dulled reamers after 4 or 5 chamberings with oil (Viper's Venom) but coolant based reaming results in a reamer indistinguishable from brand new after dozens of chamberings. Some day I may be up to hundreds and I can make a more informed comparison, but I'm not Dave Tooley so that'll be in a decade or so.
 
INTJ said:
I thought the typical lathe coolant pump was designed to run water based coolant vs cutting oil? I know that the supplied coolant pump on the PM 1440 GT won't run continuously for more than about 10 minutes when pumping oil without throwing the thermal breaker. I like that $179 system you linked to, but will it hold up to 30 minutes of pumping cutting oil?
Click to expand...
imersion vs suction
two different styles
 
Last edited:
Nuttin' fancy here. Homemade tank with baffle inside to keeps chips separated. Filter system in place. Used to use standard coolant pump, but did not make enough pressure. Carbonator turned down is the ticket. Pump on take is just used as a siphon tube lol. Gretan cup. Got a ball valve to limit flow and a quick cut off when things go haywire. One thing that I would like to add is a foot pedal on the pump. That would come in handy.
 

Attachments

  • 1660324114-picsay.jpg
    1660324114-picsay.jpg
    213.4 KB · Views: 122
  • 1660324098-picsay.jpg
    1660324098-picsay.jpg
    128.1 KB · Views: 115
  • 1660324071-picsay.jpg
    1660324071-picsay.jpg
    267 KB · Views: 117
GenePoole said:
That may be so, but when I hear him claim that a single chambering will ruin a reamer, then I have to be skeptical as this is the opposite of my experience. I've dulled reamers after 4 or 5 chamberings with oil (Viper's Venom) but coolant based reaming results in a reamer indistinguishable from brand new after dozens of chamberings. Some day I may be up to hundreds and I can make a more informed comparison, but I'm not Dave Tooley so that'll be in a decade or so.
Click to expand...
I can't disagree with you GenePoole because I have never used coolant for reaming.only
 
I ordered the procon motor/pump combo.

FWIW My 1440GT has an immersion pump that looks exactly like what Dave linked to a couple times. I won't chamber with that, but I am going to run some oil through it and see if it's good'nuff for the small parting jobs I do.
 
INTJ said:
In that case, this one looks like the easy button for anyone system:

Click to expand...
I would confirm it's an immersion style pump.
I have a 5' head height as it was the easiest route for the oil line from the tank. If I dropped it down I'd get more flow but I've never wanted more. More flow means I pump more onto the floor when I have a brain fart.

Here's a pic of my muzzle setup. In hindsight I would use a ball valve on the oil line as it's either open or closed. The blue line is air coming from a foot valve into a needle valve to control air flow. About 65 PSI Both lines tied together then into the rotary union. Both lines have check valves.
Barrel flush coolant system.JPG
 
If I was reaming 304 - 316 stainless high sulphur cutting fluid would be my go to but 416 is extremely soft. Im using "coolant" but mixing at 4-1 instead of 10-1 so that it actually feels slippery between the fingers. Cuts smooth and finish is beautiful.
 
Started the cart. Will have to pause here until the pump arrives, which should be Wednesday. In the meantime I'll work on the catch pan and plumbing back to the tank for the drain.


One day I'll learn how to actually weld. And have a table to actually weld on instead of a concrete slab.


22-08-12 18-50-15 8446.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Need help with chamber flush system lubricant
Replies
1
Views
1,160
Rustystud
tac284
Input on High pressure flush system.
2
Replies
37
Views
8,325
DickE
DickE
Vacuum wet molding a pouch sheath (Ratmandu)
Replies
3
Views
916
Dud

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Classified Ads

Forum statistics

Threads
167,780
Messages
2,240,144
Members
80,757
Latest member
product_by_process

Share This Page

Back
Top