Chamber flush system build log.

[jareese]

After seeing this thread quite some time ago I started gathering up bits and pieces to build my own chamber flush system. I finally got it all together and running and chambered my first barrel with it the other day. The system works really well and I'm happy with how it turned out.

I used a carbonator pump I purchased off of ebay and it has way more than enough pressure and oil flow. In the video that's the amount oil oil going thru a 30 caliber barrel with a regular reamer with only a notched screw to hold the pilot on. I opted for just a remote on/off switch instead of a foot pedal like some others have used.

Anyway, this thread was great and got me motivated to build this system so I just thought I'd share my results.

New video · Saturday, Mar 23, 2024

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

Very nice!

 

[LVLAaron]

I added 8oz of Moly Dee to my tank. Cuts feel a lot smoother. It smells bad but makes a noticeable difference in how well chips exit the chamber.

 

[hoz53]

I added 8oz of Moly Dee to my tank. Cuts feel a lot smoother. It smells bad but makes a noticeable difference in how well chips exit the chamber.

thats interesting—. has the return directly from your chip pan been working ok? it seems i would get chips ect ”down the drain”

 

[DaveTooley]

I added 8oz of Moly Dee to my tank. Cuts feel a lot smoother. It smells bad but makes a noticeable difference in how well chips exit the chamber.

Be careful about breathing in any fumes or particles from using air to blow things off. I did this in about 2010 and had respiratory issues. It was so bad I started over with new oil.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Dave makes a good point. I stopped using air a few years ago. Now just a brush or paper towel to clean off the threads and shoulder to take measurements. When you breathe this stuff every day you are going to pay the price.

 

[LVLAaron]

I dont blow anything off for that reason. Stuff vaporizes, coats the whole shop, gets in the air conditioner, etc.

Is your warning a general statement about oils, or specifically for Moly Dee?

 

[LVLAaron]

thats interesting—. has the return directly from your chip pan been working ok? it seems i would get chips ect ”down the drain”

It's 100x times easier than setting up a bread pan and return lines, etc. The pan drain is on the other end of the lathe. I put a WypAll towel or pigmat in the tray to catch chips. Then in the pump tank, I've got a big magnet on the bottom, and a 5 micron filter. When I replace the oil I'll flush the tank out with some kerosene

 

[GenePoole]

Another good reason to use flood coolant.

 

[DaveTooley]

I dont blow anything off for that reason. Stuff vaporizes, coats the whole shop, gets in the air conditioner, etc.

Is your warning a general statement about oils, or specifically for Moly Dee?

I've never had a problem with any other oils I've used. Only when I added Moly Dee. One job last year was for 400 barrels. I didn't have any respiratory issues.
Great stuff as it double the life of a tap.

 

[LVLAaron]

Thanks. I'll stay conscious of it.

 

[hoz53]

It's 100x times easier than setting up a bread pan and return lines, etc. The pan drain is on the other end of the lathe. I put a WypAll towel or pigmat in the tray to catch chips. Then in the pump tank, I've got a big magnet on the bottom, and a 5 micron filter. When I replace the oil I'll flush the tank out with some kerosene

ok thanks

 

[jamesl]

You might be surprised how well it works if you try running straight to your rotary coupling. No bypass, just straight to it.

Walt, do you know what size pump your lathe has on it. Any chance you could take a couple of pictures how yours is set up? I'm interested in setting mine up similar to how you are describing.

 

[Walt Krafft]

I can't find any specs on it. It is just a standard vane type pump similar to a Gusher that comes on many machines. I guess 3 to 4 gpm at maybe 10psi max. When I originally plumbed to my rotary coupling, I used some 1/8" pipe fittings. I changed it to all 1/4" and got better flow.

 

[Walt Krafft]

I will add, it is enough volume and pressure to give me a real bath if I forget to put the bottle over the reamer.

 

[jamesl]

I will add, it is enough volume and pressure to give me a real bath if I forget to put the bottle over the reamer.

Maybe I missed it the last 27 pages but what are you using for lubricant?

 

[Walt Krafft]

Castrol 9974. A fully synthetic water soluble gun drilling fluid. At 10%, it is nice and slippery with good body, oderless, a good rust preventative. It will messup cheap paint jobs.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

I don't have any experience with Castrol 9974, but have worked with about half a dozen other coolants, all the way from straight pig fat naturals through semi-synthetic to full synthetics. All of them will eventually go rotten if they sit idle with a scum of tramp oil on top. Anaerobic bacteria can flourish in that environment.
Keep tramp oil off the top and make sure the coolant circulates regularly. An aeration or circulation pump is not a waste of time.

 

[Walt Krafft]

I have not had any of this coolant go rancid.

 

[GenePoole]

I have not had any of this coolant go rancid.

Same with Houghton HOCUT 795MP-RHS. I've had it sit all summer in 100°+ heat with no infection.

 

[LVLAaron]

Same with Houghton HOCUT 795MP-RHS. I've had it sit all summer in 100°+ heat with no infection.

Any issues with rust in the hard to see areas? I'd like to run coolant on my mill but I'm not interested in any of the rust complications.