Case stuck in body die- can't get it out.

[mattri]

Using a Redding body die. Lubed cases per usual, a dozen or so went through no problem and then one stuck.

Case went into die without undue pressure, then when I went to pull it back out the sides of the rim stripped out and it stayed in the die.

Tried using a punch small enough to fit through the top of the die to tap it out but this thing is stuck. I hit that punch pretty hard with a hammer and the case didn't budge.

Have had cases be tight but never one stuck like this before. Only thing I can figure is that by some fluke the spray of lube missed it. Again, have never had a case stick like this.

Any way to get this thing out without ruining the die?

 

[M-61]

Reloading Supplies â–¶ Dies - Reloading â–¶ Reloading Die Parts & Accessories â–¶ Stuck Case Removers â–¶
RCBS Stuck Case Remover
Product #: 504741 RCBS #: 9340 UPC #: 076683093400


$18.49
Rebate available! Status: Available
Ready to ship

MIDWAY

 

[mattri]

Good find! I didn't even know they made such a thing. Wonder if it might just be easier to get another die and be more careful with the lube?

 

[Nomad47]

Hate to say it but I've needed one more than once. Beats buying dies every time I screw up.

 

[Cort]

I think you can send the die to Redding and they will remove the stuck case for you. I would first try soaking the die in Kroil over night and then see if your punch will remove the case.

Cort

 

[coford]

Reloaders generally fall into two category's - there are the ones that have already done this and the one's that probably will at some time. Go ahead and buy the stuck case remover and it will last you a lifetime. I have used mine twice on my stuff in 35 years of reloading. Still works just like the day I bought it. I have lent it to over a dozen people and it has always worked for them also. Cheap insurance to have around and it will keep you from having a bad day if you stick another.

 

[spclark]

Try heating the die with a propane torch while you have the punch in place in the stuck case. Helps having a buddy around to steady it with pliers when you smack the punch with a stout hammer. The heat will make the die expand so the trick is not waiting too long while it heats - you dont want the case expanding too.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Buy the stuck case remover. You will need it again.

 

[pdog2062]

I would be very careful heating a heat treated piece of tool steel with a propane torch

 

[navyrad8r]

the other thought would to put it in the freezer for a few days while the stuck case remover is being shipped. the try and whack (gently) again...if not the case remover will be at your door.
FWIW I sent mine back to RCBS the fixed one and replaced one that I wrecked for free. I paid shipping only to rcbs.
cheers,
doc

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

Stories about stuck cases always start with: "I used a spray lube..."

Imperial sizing wax is your friend.

 

[22BRGUY]

Don't know if you might be interested but years ago I had the same problem and built my own stuck case remover. First I drilled out the primer pocket just enough to get to the thicker metal case head. Then I found a wood type or sheet metal type pointed screw with fairly fine threads slightly larger in diameter than the primer pocket drilled hole, and a hex head on the screw. Then I put the die in my press upside down from the bottom of the press threads with the primer pocket pointing up. Then I found a couple of thicker washers with the center holes just big enough for the screw to go through and the outer diameter bigger than the die thread opening on top of the press. I simply put the screw thru the 2 washers and screwed it into the primer pocket drilled out hole. When it got tight, I used the appropriated wrench to turn the screw creating enough pull force to break the case loose from the die. It took very little movement of the case to come free. This is just a general idea of what worked well for me and you can use the same principle maybe with your own imagination....or just buy the stuck case remover.

One thing I also learned in the process was that the inside of the die is now slightly scuffed and somewhat sticky even with proper case lube. A fellow at Hornady at the time said I could send the die in but all they do is to use Flitz metal polish on an electric drill to repolish the inside of the die. I did what he suggested myself and it worked great.

Best wishes

 

[Heavies]

Stories about stuck cases always start with: "I used a spray lube..."

Imperial sizing wax is your friend.

This.

 

[Outrider27]

When I was first ordering all the reloading equipment to get started in reloading my buddy told me to add the RCBS stuck case remover to my list, that I'd need it someday (this was probably in late 1970). Turned out to be great advice; it was 12 years or more before it happened, but the fix only took about 10 minutes, including re-reading the instructions that I hadn't read since just before I put the box up with the rest of my dies.

 

[savageshooter86]

Just my 2cents I would buy the stuck case removal tool. Seems it would be good to have around just in case.

 

[Strut]

You can improvise a stuck case removal tool yourself. Start with a #7 drill, 1/4 20 tap, T handle, a handful of washers and a 1/4 20 bolt about 1" long. Also, the note above about Imperial sizing wax is great advice. Since I found out about Imperial wax, I have not had to pull a case.

 

[GSPV]

Put it in the freezer. The coefficient of expansion of brass is much, much higher than steel. Then use a rod through the top of the die and knock the case out from there.

 

[Shynloco]

You can improvise a stuck case removal tool yourself. Start with a #7 drill, 1/4 20 tap, T handle, a handful of washers and a 1/4 20 bolt about 1" long. Also, the note above about Imperial sizing wax is great advice. Since I found out about Imperial wax, I have not had to pull a case.

With all due respect for Imperial Sizing Wax (which I've used for years and continue to use on SOME casings - Lapua mostly), I've found that when you have tough jobs that have a potential for causing problems - like stuck casings, I use RCBS Lube 2 (or the lanolin formula) as the RCBS lube has far better viscosity compared to Imperial Sizing Wac which has next to none. Stuck cases are the result of the lack of lubricant between the casing and die walls. Lubricants lacking viscosity often are sqeezed out of the die on a tight casing. We've all experienced stuck casings and they are a pain to be sure. But perhaps thinking ahead to ward off that perky situation can help out so your entire day reloading doesn't go south. Just a tip even though I'm sure the ugly stuck casing issue will once again raise it's ugly head. Info only.

Alex

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

I'm not sure I follow you here. Are you sure that RCBS Lube 2 has more viscosity that ISW? The reason I'm asking is that ISW is pretty much a solid at room temperature and really doesn't run well at all, so I would say its viscocity is extremely high. Maybe the term you are looking for is fluidity, the reverse of viscosity. I would agree that ISW has little to no fluidity at room temperature and pressure, but when pressure is applied (or heat), it does start to run or become more fluid.

At any rate, I surely do not want to start a "my lube is better than your lube" competition, but I will paraphrase what I said earlier; "all great stuck case threads and stories start with "I sprayed my cases with..."

And I will end by saying that I've been using ISW for "a little while now" and I have never had a stuck case. I do remember encountering a few some decades back when I was using RCBS lube on the stupid pads.

 

[CatShooter]

I don't know if RCBS-II has more or less viscosity than whatever... but in the past 4 years, I have loaded approximately 4,000,000 rounds of 223/5.56 ammunition, using RCBS-II lube in automatic loading machines and didn't stick a case nor dent a shoulder. We bought it by the gallon.

It is good stuff.