Case neck lube?

[222Jim]

Have found both Imperial & 21st Century dry products to be a recipe for scratched dies and brass… Not to mention that mess that is now on the outside of the case neck…!

The motor mica kit that Foster now sells with their name on it and comes in a small case with neck brushes inside the case that apply dry lube to the inside of the case neck is satisfactory in that it is non scratching but terribly slow…
This product was originally sold by Bonanza whom Foster bought out years ago…
Nothing has changed from Bonanza’s original catalogue aside from the name FOSTER being applied… If you have an original Bonanza press the current FOSTER Co-Ax parts will fit perfectly though I have never in nearly 40 years of use needed to replace any parts on my Bonanza aside upgrading the side links with Inline’s curved ones.

I have made my own version of Neolube #2 as it cannot be shipped out of the US due to the flammable carrier…
Ultra fine graphite mixed with a very small amount of of Isopropyl alcohol and applied to the inside of the case neck with a Q-Tip.
A tray of brass is ready to mandrel by the time you finish the last case, just start on the first one that you applied the lube to.
There is enough lube/graphite left in the neck after mandreling/siizing that seating is noticeably easier and the cost of course is virtually nothing to make…! {:~)
Apply my recipe or Neolube #2 before priming!
I had a “squib” shot that cost me a match that was running a score of 90.8 until the last shot fell out of the sky to the outer ring of the target… It was perfect windage, just 4 rings low…!
I can only blame/imagine that some liquid effected the primer as I have not in all my years had such a shot aside from a totally un-powdered case while loading at midnight for a match the following day…
This load fired but I could tell that the report and recoil was less and the results on target showed the result…
I use an AutoTrickler that is throwing a load accurate to one granule of Varget so I know that the amount of powder in the case was correct and can only attribute the squib to primer failure.
This issue about Neolube #2 has previously been much discussed on the forum over the years… Check out the “Search” tab here.

I'm in Canada and have ordered and received Neolube No. 2 without issues. Last delivery was ~6 months ago.

 

[memilanuk]

I haven't tried NL2 for that specifically, but I have used Sentry 'Smooth Kote' in the bore for similar reasons. Some of the local HBR/VFS shooters turned me onto it about 10-15 years ago, when I had a barrel that was being particularly fussy about settling in from a clean, cold bore. Smooth Kote took care of that problem but it's about like working with copier toner - dang messy and gets *everywhere*. Or maybe I'm just a slob - dunno . Either way, I don't use it unless I really *need* to.

 

[omnivorous]

I haven't tried NL2 for that specifically, but I have used Sentry 'Smooth Kote' in the bore for similar reasons. Some of the local HBR/VFS shooters turned me onto it about 10-15 years ago, when I had a barrel that was being particularly fussy about settling in from a clean, cold bore. Smooth Kote took care of that problem but it's about like working with copier toner - dang messy and gets *everywhere*. Or maybe I'm just a slob - dunno . Either way, I don't use it unless I really *need* to.

Interesting. Sounds like a dry moly very similar to kg10 above. Guys have posted concerns about moly build up in the bore.

 

[memilanuk]

Interesting. Sounds like a dry moly very similar to kg10 above. Guys have posted concerns about moly build up in the bore.

My admittedly limited understanding is that moly off-gasses somewhere around 800 degrees... which is far less than the actual in-bore temperature when you fire a round. In the case of Smooth-kote, it acts temporarily like a thin layer of fouling between the bare metal of the bullet and the barrel. After a few shots, it's pretty much burned off... but by then, normal barrel fouling has started to accumulate in it's place. If you're cleaning the barrel properly, "buildup" shouldn't be a concern.

 

[Killick]

Have found both Imperial & 21st Century dry products to be a recipe for scratched dies and brass… Not to mention that mess that is now on the outside of the case neck…!

The motor mica kit that Foster now sells with their name on it and comes in a small case with neck brushes inside the case that apply dry lube to the inside of the case neck is satisfactory in that it is non scratching but terribly slow…
This product was originally sold by Bonanza whom Foster bought out years ago…
Nothing has changed from Bonanza’s original catalogue aside from the name FOSTER being applied… If you have an original Bonanza press the current FOSTER Co-Ax parts will fit perfectly though I have never in nearly 40 years of use needed to replace any parts on my Bonanza aside upgrading the side links with Inline’s curved ones.

I have made my own version of Neolube #2 as it cannot be shipped out of the US due to the flammable carrier…
Ultra fine graphite mixed with a very small amount of of Isopropyl alcohol and applied to the inside of the case neck with a Q-Tip.
A tray of brass is ready to mandrel by the time you finish the last case, just start on the first one that you applied the lube to.
There is enough lube/graphite left in the neck after mandreling/siizing that seating is noticeably easier and the cost of course is virtually nothing to make…! {:~)
Apply my recipe or Neolube #2 before priming!
I had a “squib” shot that cost me a match that was running a score of 90.8 until the last shot fell out of the sky to the outer ring of the target… It was perfect windage, just 4 rings low…!
I can only blame/imagine that some liquid effected the primer as I have not in all my years had such a shot aside from a totally un-powdered case while loading at midnight for a match the following day…
This load fired but I could tell that the report and recoil was less and the results on target showed the result…
I use an AutoTrickler that is throwing a load accurate to one granule of Varget so I know that the amount of powder in the case was correct and can only attribute the squib to primer failure.
This issue about Neolube #2 has previously been much discussed on the forum over the years… Check out the “Search” tab here.

There is no problem with Imperial dry neck lube. If it's a recipe, it's for slick mandrelling and bullet seating. You won't get it in you dies if you simply wipe it off. I've been using it for years and my dies are as pristine as the day I received them. With the 2 part kit you apply some graphite, part 1, into the media, part 2. Then you dip the 'primed' case mouth into the mixture, wipe off the outside with a paper towel and mandrel the case neck. The graphite leaves visible streaks inside the neck and after you charge the case with powder you can seat the bullet with ease. I have had no 'squibs' with this protocol but many 'clean' strings.

 

[SeabeeKen]

I apply nl2 with a small foam swab to the inside of the case necks, works great, no mess.

 

[Bob3700]

Thanks for the detailed reply. Good point on burning the teflon. However, the amount burned is minuscule, and the exposure, in an outdoor setting would be minimal. Most/all of it heading rapidly out the muzzle.

Years ago, articles in Precision Shooting focused on Teflon in a barrel, indicated it was detrimental to accuracy. There was a Teflon product called “ Friction Block” that was newly introduced as a bore treatment. Claims were for was reduced friction and fouling in a treated bbl. Several contributors tested the product and struggled to achieve the normal accuracy from their rifles. In the end, they stated that Teflon should not be introduced into ur bbl.

 

[Fire Dog]

Years ago, articles in Precision Shooting focused on Teflon in a barrel, indicated it was detrimental to accuracy. There was a Teflon product called “ Friction Block” that was newly introduced as a bore treatment. Claims were for was reduced friction and fouling in a treated bbl. Several contributors tested the product and struggled to achieve the normal accuracy from their rifles. In the end, they stated that Teflon should not be introduced into ur bbl.

Also, as several here on the forum have mentioned, poisonous when subjected to high temperature… Breaks down and releases Fluorine gas.

 

[1shot]

Interesting regarding using neo in the bore. Do you find it helps with cold bore first shots? Have you noticed any build up of thermoplastic resins or increased corrosion in the barrels from the flourine,chlorine, and sulfur?

The short answer is I have experienced no down side to using this method. Additionally, the cold bore is much closer to the average velocity of the string of fire and can be counted on make the first shot count if that's important to you.
After each shooting session, the bore is cleaned down to bare metal, and the process begins again.

 

[omnivorous]

The short answer is I have experienced no down side to using this method. Additionally, the cold bore is much closer to the average velocity of the string of fire and can be counted on make the first shot count if that's important to you.
After each shooting session, the bore is cleaned down to bare metal, and the process begins again.

Thanks for the info. I’m left wondering if your procedure could benefit those guys who are noticing a big 100 yard, first shot cold bore poi shift with their subsonic rounds?

 

[rwj]

Thanks for the info. I’m left wondering if your procedure could benefit those guys who are noticing a big 100 yard, first shot cold bore poi shift with their subsonic rounds?

Perhaps. If you’re not able to shoot “foulers” after barrel cleaning, it is best to characterize the POI location of the first shot(s) then “holder over” accordingly in the future.

My rifles’ first shot POI from a bare steel clean barrel is .5 MOA low. If a coating (graphite particles or Lock Ease) is applied, the first shot POI is reduced .3 MOA low. Values for your firearms will likely vary…

 

[omnivorous]

I finally got my Neo 2.

 

[64Rambler]

I finally got my Neo 2.

I use these to apply. They don't fray or shed like a cotton swab. I roll the case on the bench with the damp swab (not dripping wet) in the neck at least 2 revolutions, then set the case upright so any pooling goes to the bottom of the neck and leaves an even coat inside.

https://www.amazon.com/200pcs-Makeup-Cleaning-multi-role-Orange/dp/B0BVM21SJJ?tag=accuratescom-20