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Case lube

I've used Hornady one shot since it first came out. I've used it on everything that I've owned from 22 Hornet to 460 WBY. Never had one single case stuck in the dies and have had no issues whatsoever, but there are some people who hate it for some reason or another.
 
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Put in the “Search” and read until your satisfied.
Yeah most of those threads are years old

But I guess everyone has their favorite. Some of the ones mentioned are hard to find these days.

I'm tempted to use Hobo Oil. Super low viscosity. Seems to wipe off easily. Just not sure if it would begin to 'clog' the die over time.
 
lanolin for Case Lube :D Remember, it needs to be removed, after sizing. Not always easy.

Then there is wax. Watch out for sticky wax build up. :(
You want to use the PEG-75 Lanolin, which has been modified to make it water soluble. Dissolve in isopropyl alcohol (+90%) and lightly mist cases. Rinses off with water… no sticky residue that requires chemical solvents to break down.

Regular lanolin is not water soluble and will build up on cases and inside dies creating a mess.
 
I got a buddy that uses and swears by the old Herter case lube, he says it's better than anything he's used. I like Imperial case wax, but it's hard to get off.
 
What are people's current favourites for full length sizing?
Might help if you share something about your sizing criteria.

I've been loading for too many years to mention. Started with the original RCBS lube. Very easy to apply too much and get dents from excess lube, very difficult to remove.

Next I tried the Lee case lube. Again, challenging to apply uniformly, easy to remove, but since it is water based it can cause your dies to rust. Learned this the hard way.

More recently I've tried most of the usual lubes and some different ones.
- Imperial is an outstanding lube. If I am setting up a die, doing some case reforming or other challenging sizing I am liable to use it. But case to case application can be inconsistent (which equates to variations in case head to datum). Slow to apply and slow to remove.
- Used 5w-20 full synthetic motor oil for several years and tens of thousands of rounds, mostly 223. Doesn't take much, you can run a dry case in a die that has been sizing brass lubed with the oil and not stick the case. Comes off reasonable easy in corn cob media.
- Haven't tried it yet, but the lube for pulling electrical cable is on my list to try.
- Started using Boot Leg case lube (6:1 ratio with Iso Heet and liquid lanolin). If I really soaked the cases, it is possible to cause a very small lube dent. I tried 12:1 and that is what I have been using the past several years. I've never had a lube dent no matter how much I spray on. I can size them immediately after spraying while still wet and it lubes just as well. I came up with a way to very uniformly apply it. My case head to datum dimension are extremely consistent. Cheap and easy to remove. No downside in my view.

How I apply Boot Leg (I tumble in fine 20-40 sieve size corn cob for 30 minutes to remove it)
And oh yeah, I spray the body, shoulder and neck. I spray and roll them around in the pan.
Case Lube.jpg
 
Next I tried the Lee case lube. Again, challenging to apply uniformly, easy to remove, but since it is water based it can cause your dies to rust. Learned this the hard way.
Apply, let dry for a minute and size. Ive never had a die rust from Lee after it has dried. Applying is really as simple as this. Never a dent or damage.

 
Might help if you share something about your sizing criteria.

I've been loading for too many years to mention. Started with the original RCBS lube. Very easy to apply too much and get dents from excess lube, very difficult to remove.

Next I tried the Lee case lube. Again, challenging to apply uniformly, easy to remove, but since it is water based it can cause your dies to rust. Learned this the hard way.

More recently I've tried most of the usual lubes and some different ones.
- Imperial is an outstanding lube. If I am setting up a die, doing some case reforming or other challenging sizing I am liable to use it. But case to case application can be inconsistent (which equates to variations in case head to datum). Slow to apply and slow to remove.
- Used 5w-20 full synthetic motor oil for several years and tens of thousands of rounds, mostly 223. Doesn't take much, you can run a dry case in a die that has been sizing brass lubed with the oil and not stick the case. Comes off reasonable easy in corn cob media.
- Haven't tried it yet, but the lube for pulling electrical cable is on my list to try.
- Started using Boot Leg case lube (6:1 ratio with Iso Heet and liquid lanolin). If I really soaked the cases, it is possible to cause a very small lube dent. I tried 12:1 and that is what I have been using the past several years. I've never had a lube dent no matter how much I spray on. I can size them immediately after spraying while still wet and it lubes just as well. I came up with a way to very uniformly apply it. My case head to datum dimension are extremely consistent. Cheap and easy to remove. No downside in my view.

How I apply Boot Leg (I tumble in fine 20-40 sieve size corn cob for 30 minutes to remove it)
And oh yeah, I spray the body, shoulder and neck. I spray and roll them around in the pan.
View attachment 1325948
I use this same technique with One Shot. Spray at an angle to lube the inside of the neck. Works great, no mess.
 

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