Case broke in 223 body die and is stuck

[rogn]

To the OP...maybe try a tight fitting hardwood dowel from the top. put it in and oil everything up good inside...the wood will swell and hopefully you can catch enough if the brass to knock it out. Good luck ![/QUOTE]

I would never use a wooden dowel in a long, small bore. If it brakes because of force on it , you may have to find some one with a gundrill to get it back out. If its a short section in the neck you might get away with it. Just in case anyone has issue with a case in a chambered barrel.

Some of the old fashioned ways are to get a tight fitting bore brush, run it into the neck and no further then try to pull it back out.
They used to sell "broken case extractors' for the 0.467" cases used in military rifles. M1 and or 1903. The matched size tap is also a good plan with the right size.

 

[ricco1949]

I tighten the die into the lathe chuck, hand turn an appropriate size tap into the remaining case in die, tighten the tap into a collet in tailstock and pull the case out with the tailstock handwheel. Have done his 2-3 times.

 

[NorCalMikie]

I tighten the die into the lathe chuck, hand turn an appropriate size tap into the remaining case in die, tighten the tap into a collet in tailstock and pull the case out with the tailstock handwheel.

Which costs less? A Small Flat Rate Priority Mail Box from USPS OR a lathe?
And, if the folks that made the die can't get the stuck brass out, they'll replace it with a new one WITHOUT all scratches and gouges from trying to short cut the process. Small Flat Rate Priority box is about $7.25. Getting the die fixed the RIGHT WAY?? Priceless.

 

[McFred]

For those that already have a lathe (instead of 2 divorces and some crippling credit card debt) it's no addional cost to run a tap into a stuck brass case and extract it. If you've got any mechanical inclination whatsoever, you shouldn't have to worry about scuffing a die in the process either.

 

[snert]

Redding charges about $6.50 to remove a case. Sometimes takes a bit, as its first come first serve and you are no the only guy to stick a case...trust me on that.

 

[acloco]

JB Weld a threaded bolt inside the remainder of the case. Let dry overnight.

Scratch the inside of the case for the epoxy to grab.

 

[1lnbrdg]

Oh yeah, forgot, an ease-out would usually work too. Body portion sized ease-out. Don't think I'd try the neck area with an ease-out.

 

[okie]

Just get a $7.90 small USPS priority mail box and send the whole works back to the manufacturer with a brief note explaining how much you like the die and all the other products you own that have been made by the same manufacturer and then ask what particular case lube they would recommend.

lol--they will send a you sample of imperial as a kindly reminder...

 

[cw308]

Just send the die back , they will remove it the right way . You would have had the die back already it you sent it the first day it happened .

 

[shoot4fun]

223 brass will likely, in my experience, not show the sign of an impending case head separation. I, from now on, will set a parameter for number of reloads on 223 brass and, no matter what I think, it will be disposed of at that number.
Now, to @Dusty Stevens campaign for not neck sizing, there are die sets out there that contain a body die, neck die and seating die. I am certainly not neck sizing only when I use those dies and, obviously, neither is the OP. I do agree that neck size only is an antiquated practice with all the tools we have available Today for measuring the shoulders and adjusting to just the right length but I will not stop using the above type die sets for building accurate reloads.

 

[ranger3]

I think I said this earlier. This brass was some used brass I bought and was told had been lightly used. Guess what on the first firing by me most if not nearly all cases showed neck splits or cracking. A point for me is no more used brass from someone I don't know and I should have annealed before firing. I am sending the die to Redding today along with a $10 check as requested. So thanks again for all the advice and pointers on how to do this.

 

[ranger3]

Thanks again for all the good advice and just to let you know kudos to Redding for their great service I got my die back today (9 days)with a new plastic dye box and a little bit of Imperial Wax and the die looks like it's actually new. This great service.

 

[243winxb]

To much shoulder set back, when fl sizing may cause case separation in the case body when sizing or firing.
Look for a shiny thin ring going around the case. My brass & photo.

 

[cw308]

Glad it all worked out , lesson learned . Not when you feel that resistance , lower the ram dd alittle more lube , lube makes big difference . I stopped using the wax went back to the RCBS Case lube . I wet tumble the R BS is water soluble , cleans off easier and works just as good .

 

[JFrank]

By the time you get the brass out with ammonia the die will be worthless.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Water will dissolve it too.

 

[JFrank]

Who’s got time to wait for that?

 

[chop house]

To much shoulder set back, when fl sizing may cause case separation in the case body when sizing or firing.
Look for a shiny thin ring going around the case.View attachment 1116285 My brass & photo.

i have some 5 times fired hornady brass in 22-250 that is showing this ring at the 'classic' separation point at the web.... thing is they have only been trimmed once, shoulder bumps have been 0.002", pretty mild loads, tight headspace on a savage, and most puzzling the bent paper clip does not 'feel' the groove, nor does the borescope 'show' it.


so, incipient separation, or not?

 

[cw308]

I would check your chamber , give it a good cleaning , are you full sizing or neck . I don't think it's a case stretch. Clean the ring off with some 0000 steel wool . I full size using the competition Shellholders by Redding they come with different deck heights so you can bottom your die setup without oversizing the case , could be the reason for your mark on the case .

 

[243winxb]

so, incipient separation, or not?

Not, is my guess. The line on the 223 brass (above) is very thin and very bright.

Case Head Separation- This is not one starting.
A full length die can leave a mark where it stops sizing and/or when its gets into the thicker web area. Like my 243Win. Remington brass. Fired 19 time & trimmed 2 time.