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Carbon Ring, what is it, where is it?

Some very good info here and I'll give my 2 cents. I think a lotta carbon issues are due to excess end clearance on case neck to chamber and running the slower powders at a conservative charge from what I have seen. I have personally pulled a few of my reamer specs back on case length to where I can control clearance on case trimming. some of the calibers I run will never get to sammi spec on the brass available and I want to control my neck clearance on case trim. I also make a pilot the same diameter of my turned neck and modify a case so I absolutely know where my neck clearance is running. I try to keep this clearance to a minimum around .008. that I can control. I don't think this eliminates the problem but a .008 ring is a lot easier to deal with than a .020 or a .030. Dave kiff and I visited about this some years ago on the reamer deal, and some very talented names where brought up that abides by this. I agree with boyd, once there, aint no chemical gonna get it out but my borescope tells me when I need to scrub and a .008 ring sure enough easier than them big logs rollers I've dealt with and often enough a normal regiment keeps the thinner ring under control. One thing kiff brought to my attention when we got to talken about this mess, if a feller gonna get on the tight side of end clearance better make a pilot same O.D as neck than using the bought ones or your gonna get a false reading with the taper in chamber the reamer cuts. I'm sure the discipline we shoot is a deciding factor as well on determining how critical the above applies to. Bill
I think I will go up and chk the distance between the case mouth and the start of the bore I will do this with Bore cam, just to get some idea, but I think all my chambers are just standard I haven't got into buying reamers this go around of shooting, been about 25yrs and boy have I learned alot in the last 2yrs
 
6PPC .262 NECK
I had a similar problem to other posters...I turned a piece of brass rod to .261dia.x.5 long with a 45 deg.ch. on one end and drilled and taped the other
end to fit my cleaning rod.
On the end with the chamfer I filled some notches similar to the end of a reamer .
Screwed to the end of my cleaning rod put it in the camber turned it a few times the black ring was gone.

I wonder if it be worth it for some enterprising smith/machinist to make something like this in different diameters to fit different neck sizes and sell to shooters with carbon ring issues? I know I'd probably buy something like this, anywho just throwing this out there.
 
Sinclair Chamber Neck Length Gage

Useful (caliber-specific) tool for determining with some certainty just where your chamber's neck ends and the free bore begins.

'Standard' may mean different things to different people, particularly where SAAMI specs get interpreted by lawyers.
 
Sinclair Chamber Neck Length Gage

Useful (caliber-specific) tool for determining with some certainty just where your chamber's neck ends and the free bore begins.

'Standard' may mean different things to different people, particularly where SAAMI specs get interpreted by lawyers.
I use and like those Sinclair CNL gages. But for 22-cal and 6mm bores, you can use a Hornady (Stoney Point) OAL Gauge and fired rimfire cases to determine the chamber length (details in this old post):

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/headspace-gauge.3875237/#post-36585857

OAL-CLG-1.jpg

OAL-CLG-2.jpg
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Anyone here use Wipe-Out Carb-Out carb out for removing carbon rings? It’s supposed to dissolve carbon. I’ve had good luck cleaning brakes with caked on carbon on it but never tried it on the carbon ring of death.
 
IMO, With JB on a patch you aren't going to hurt your barrel. I've saw too many small groups shot right after JB was used.
I’m sure that’s true but I still don’t like the idea of using a abrasive when a safe chemical will do the same job. Plus there is the added benefit of the film carb out leaves in the bore. If one were to start using it on a new barrel it might even eliminate the carbon ring in the first place.
 
I’m sure that’s true but I still don’t like the idea of using a abrasive when a safe chemical will do the same job. Plus there is the added benefit of the film carb out leaves in the bore. If one were to start using it on a new barrel it might even eliminate the carbon ring in the first place.
How long you think that film is in there after firing a shot or two. Lets see, a bullet being swaged under 60,000 psi followed by fire and heat. Matt
 
I used to do alot of engine wor at a Chrysler dealer.
We used a product called STRIP AID. I thinkit was made by Castle but I'm not sure. That shit would bubble carbon off of pistons, cylinder heads and valves like it was nothing. Shit would burn your skin and lung if you got it on either.
Maybe one of you guys has a few old burnt out barrels with carbon ring in both stainless and blued to test it out on ?
 
If you own the reamer used for your barrel chambering, it is very easy to cut the carbon ring out with a delicate twist by hand. As long as you don’t try to overdue it, you can gently feel where the reamer engages the ring.
 
If you own the reamer used for your barrel chambering, it is very easy to cut the carbon ring out with a delicate twist by hand. As long as you don’t try to overdue it, you can gently feel where the reamer engages the ring.

I had a tough one once. Worked on it for three days. Finally I touched it with the reamer. Set it down on a paper towel, and 15 minutes later the towel was brown where it rested. Perfect.
 
Has anyone tried Dyna-Tek Bore Coat?...I think it's a protective barrier for new barrels.
I've used Dyna Tek Bore coat for years and did try getting some in the area of the chamber where I got carbon rings. I could not get it clean with patches but did with a very stiff brush like ones from iosso or Hoppes often having to add some JB. I suspect this removed the Bore Tek material.
 
What leads you to say Varget is "one of the worst" ? Just curious, not being argumentative.

What are the other powders that are "bad" for contributing to the dreaded carbon ring??

I don't know about other powders except Benchmark, RL15, H335 and CFE 223 for a .223. I can say that in an unscientific way, I have determined that with a squeaky clean bore and chamber, free of carbon, both on a well used barrel and a brand new Shilen, that after a single shot with Varget, the patch is a hell of a lot blacker with Varget than the others listed. I use lighter rather than heavier loads with each of the above.
 
Without giving details about where I worked. We tested Lucas fuel injector cleaner. It's at any auto parts store. It removed carbon and chemical deposits in fuel injectors better than any other product on the market. Use it full strength. It needs a time to work. It shouldn't damage the barrel if left in for a a few days. Not aware of having carbon in my barrels. No way to check. I use it a few times a year. Let us know if anyone tries with success. I'm too cheap to buy a bore scope.

I realize this is a old thread, but I wanted to thank you for the tip on Lucas Fuel Injector.

I did some research with others knowledgeable on the issue and they agreed a combination of Lucas Fuel Injector (they also use Lucas Engine Cleaner which they say is the same thing) and Kroil Oil used on a regular basis has eliminated carbon build up. Roger Amos said he's used it several years and his action/barrel has been free of carbon.

I've used this combination (3 parts Lucas to 1 part Kroil Oil) for 2 years on my new Dasher barrel and my bore scope shows zero build up. I clean about every 40 rounds.
 

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