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Building A ELR Rifle

I decided against converting the Bat M Action to a drop port. Instead, I made a taller extractor to use the original Sako style extractor in the original extractor channel. I still have to cut the back side side for the little retainer pin, but the hard part is done.
I made it from a 3/8 cemented carbide shank. They are made from some type of chrome moly steel at around 38 RC. Plenty strong.
I will also have to lengthen the ejector port by about 1/4 inch to accommodate the 338 Lapua case.
I haven’t decided if I am going to order an Ace 5 port muzzle brake or just make one.IMG_0499.jpegIMG_0500.jpeg
 
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I decided against converting the Bat M Action to a drop port. Instead, I made a taller extractor to use the original Sako style extractor in the original extractor channel. I still have to cut the back side side for the little retainer pin, but the hard part is done.
I made it from a 3/8 cemented carbide shank. They are made from some type of chrome moly steel at around 38 RC. Plenty strong.
I will also have to lengthen the ejector port by about 1/4 inch to accommodate the 338 Lapua case.
I haven’t decided if I am going to order an Ace 5 port muzzle brake or just make one.View attachment 1633297View attachment 1633298
Was it the brass length why you opted out of the drop port?
 
Was it the brass length why you opted out of the drop port?
Yes.
the case mouth would almost get into the recoil lug. Plus, the Bat M has a center 1/4 28 action screw as well as the forward and rear screw. It would disappear. Also, I just did not feel good about cutting all of that material from the bottom of the action.

The regular right eject is going to work fine, I just have to lengthen the ejection port.
I came in early this morning and finished the extractor installation. IMG_0502.jpeg
 
I lengthened the ejection port this afternoon, I made it a little longer just in case total insanity sets in and I decide to chamber a barrel in the Tubb 338 XC.

If you ever have to do any appreciable machine work on a Bat Action, you can see why these 17-4 actions are so strong. I finally dug out a carbide end mill as the HSS ones were pretty much challenged.IMG_0503.jpeg
 
I’m considering doing this same thing except I was thinking I would do a 300 Norma magnum shooting a 245 Berger hybrid.

Finding the components is difficult.
 
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I decided against converting the Bat M Action to a drop port. Instead, I made a taller extractor to use the original Sako style extractor in the original extractor channel. I still have to cut the back side side for the little retainer pin, but the hard part is done.
I made it from a 3/8 cemented carbide shank. They are made from some type of chrome moly steel at around 38 RC. Plenty strong.
I will also have to lengthen the ejector port by about 1/4 inch to accommodate the 338 Lapua case.
I haven’t decided if I am going to order an Ace 5 port muzzle brake or just make one.View attachment 1633297View attachment 1633298
Great idea for making small parts !!
, I never gave a thought as to how hard or tough the steel shanks holding the carbide may be
I got a bunch laying around that are chipped and need to be resharpened but now I'm thinking
.......using them to make small parts may be a better idea.
Thanks for posting that !
 
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I lengthened the ejection port this afternoon, I made it a little longer just in case total insanity sets in and I decide to chamber a barrel in the Tubb 338 XC.

If you ever have to do any appreciable machine work on a Bat Action, you can see why these 17-4 actions are so strong. I finally dug out a carbide end mill as the HSS ones were pretty much challenged.View attachment 1633582

Adding a port is the one job I've declined. I was more concerned about warping but it seemed like a job I'd be sweating through the whole time
 
I lengthened the ejection port this afternoon, I made it a little longer just in case total insanity sets in and I decide to chamber a barrel in the Tubb 338 XC.

If you ever have to do any appreciable machine work on a Bat Action, you can see why these 17-4 actions are so strong. I finally dug out a carbide end mill as the HSS ones were pretty much challenged.View attachment 1633582
Are all BAT actions 17-4? I thought they were 416?
 
Are all BAT actions 17-4? I thought they were 416?
One of Bat’s big selling points is they manufacture their actions from either 17-4 or Chrome Moly.
They also do their own in house heat treating of the 17-4. I’m not sure if they use pre hardened Chrome Moly or do their own heat treating on it as well.
The only action bodies that rival Bat’s in strength are the ones such as ARC that use 4340 and also do their own in house heat treating.
 
One of Bat’s big selling points is they manufacture their actions from either 17-4 or Chrome Moly.
They also do their own in house heat treating of the 17-4. I’m not sure if they use pre hardened Chrome Moly or do their own heat treating on it as well.
The only action bodies that rival Bat’s in strength are the ones such as ARC that use 4340 and also do their own in house heat treating.
Well there ya go! I think hall used 17-4 as well.
 
And those ARCs are hard as diamonds.
When I first read his RC hardness at 53, I thought it was a miss print.

The non tempered hardness of 4340 after quenching is from 1550 degrees F is barely 55 RC. That means they are only tempering at about 450 degrees F to achieve that strength level, which is upwards of 200,000+tensile.

However, ductility drops off considerably at that hardness, but I guess they deemed it still more than adequate. Of course, they are probably using only the highest grade VAR steel, or at least I would think they would.
 
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A good decision to not take metal out of the bottom of that action. Hanging a heavy long barrel off of an action requires a substantial action with excellent bedding. I built a 33XC and used the Tubbs 5 Star muzzle brake. The most effective muzzle brake I have ever used however for some reason he discontinued having them made. My 33XC was 25lb and had zero muzzle rise. Those Berger 300 Hybrids are awesome projectiles. I used a 9.3 twist barrel as I had not intention to shoot heavy solids requiring more twist.
 
A good decision to not take metal out of the bottom of that action. Hanging a heavy long barrel off of an action requires a substantial action with excellent bedding. I built a 33XC and used the Tubbs 5 Star muzzle brake. The most effective muzzle brake I have ever used however for some reason he discontinued having them made. My 33XC was 25lb and had zero muzzle rise. Those Berger 300 Hybrids are awesome projectiles. I used a 9.3 twist barrel as I had not intention to shoot heavy solids requiring more twist.
I was wondering why I could not find a retail dealer for the Tubb 5 Star and why he did not list it on his Site.
I am going with the big APA self timing unit.

 
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Coming along nicely. Great to have the skills to build your own rifles. I'm always impressed by the precision, and just getting everything to fit and be square. Not a chance I'd be able to do that. Always fascinated by those videos of people make things, satisfying just watching it all come together.
 

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