best die LOCKING ring

[Bill K]

I've changed everything over to Hornady.

Also I have went to the lock & load type of die/press adapters for fast die changing in the press on my Rock chucker and Summit.

 

[ToddKS]

I use Forster dies on the dies that I use on my Coax. Everything else gets Hornady. +1 on the T handle allen wrench. I have a full set that I use to maintain my 1050. Makes life much easier.

 

[jepp2]

i have been using RCBS dies and their lock rings, but they work loose ever few sessions, any suggestions?

For my Co-Ax I use the Forester lock rings. While other can fit and work, they just don't work as well in my opinion.

For my standard presses I basically don't like any of the lock rings. For the ones with the set screw toward the threads, I find that after locking them down, it makes it very hard to make minor adjustments. And if they don't have the lead shot or plastic ball in front of the set screw, then the set screw damages the threads enough to make easy movement impossible. For the split ring style, if you tighten the lock screw when the ring is tight on top the press, you can't unscrew it. So you have to tighten it with the die slightly out of position.

While playing around with using an O-ring under the lock ring to improve die alignment, I found this method worked best for allowing me to make minor adjustments without the problems listed above. Kind of like the Lee lock ring that incorporates an O-ring - that I hated at first. I never tighten the lock ring down any longer. I just compress the O-ring with the lock ring and the die NEVER moves. And I can make half a thousandths adjustments easily. I just make a reference mark on the die that I line up with a point on the press threaded insert. Works fine for me. The picture is taken with the die up from the use position so you can see the O-ring.

 

[RGRobinett]

For my Co-Ax I use the Forester lock rings. While other can fit and work, they just don't work as well in my opinion.

For my standard presses I basically don't like any of the lock rings. For the ones with the set screw toward the threads, I find that after locking them down, it makes it very hard to make minor adjustments. And if they don't have the lead shot or plastic ball in front of the set screw, then the set screw damages the threads enough to make easy movement impossible. For the split ring style, if you tighten the lock screw when the ring is tight on top the press, you can't unscrew it. So you have to tighten it with the die slightly out of position.

While playing around with using an O-ring under the lock ring to improve die alignment, I found this method worked best for allowing me to make minor adjustments without the problems listed above. Kind of like the Lee lock ring that incorporates an O-ring - that I hated at first. I never tighten the lock ring down any longer. I just compress the O-ring with the lock ring and the die NEVER moves. And I can make half a thousandths adjustments easily. I just make a reference mark on the die that I line up with a point on the press threaded insert. Works fine for me. The picture is taken with the die up from the use position so you can see the O-ring.

View attachment 1084929

This is TOP SECRET stuff - you shouldn't be disclosing this info! RG

 

[savagedasher]

As I have a Coaxial Foster Press also, I use the Foster lock rings. They are guaranteed to fit in their press.

I second that

 

[Papa Charlie]

Hornady, I don't want to take the chance of damaging my dies threads.

 

[Bart B.]

Whatever you use, put one of these labels on it. .002" die height change per mark. Makes die adjustments for shoulder bump easy and precise.

 

[Webster]

i currently use a LEE hand press, i have been using RCBS dies and their lock rings, but they work loose ever few sessions, any suggestions?

thanks

I have Redding dies. The ring is not split. If you tighten the screw a lot the screw damages the threads making it very difficult to rotate. I took the screw out of all my dies and put a small piece of rosin core soldier in the hole to protect the threads.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

The lee lock rings are probably the only thing they make thats the best

 

[Fotheringill]

I use anything with a lock ring. The others are sitting in an old, empty tobacco tin.

 

[Ares]

Sinclair makes some very nicely machined and precisely ground split design lock rings, they are hardened stainless steel though, might not go along well with a die bushing/holder of softer material in most presses over time.

For wrench flats or a CO-AX 21st century aluminum lock rings, split ring design almost identical to Hornady.

If you would like a lock ring witch has a set screw towards the die threads the best ones i tried came from Triebel in Germany.

Using a O-ring under your lock ring, only will be beneficial if you've got alignment problems with your press/dies, use lock rings with wrench flat and a toque wrench to compress the O ring if your looking for repeatable consistency.
O-rings compressed too much, exposed to chemicals and elements enough tends to deteriorate and then the compression will usually change slightly..

With a quality press and dies it should'nt be needed in the first place.

 

[BW64]

Forster!

BW

 

[BW64]

Whatever you use, put one of these labels on it. .002" die height change per mark. Makes die adjustments for shoulder bump easy and precise.
View attachment 1084934

So where can I get one of these??

BW

 

[Bart B.]

So where can I get one of these??

Download the page, print on label paper then cut them out. I'll attach the link.

http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/jepp2/DieAdjustment-1.jpg

 

[BoydAllen]

With any of the split type lock rings, if you loosen the split, and leave it that way while making your adjustment, hold the die in position, snug the ring to the press top, and then tighten the split, you will find that the die is locked to the press so that you either have to put a wrench on the ring or die to loosen it, or simply unclamp the lock ring, which is of course the approved method.

I have used various types of lock rings over the years, and the only kind that I try to avoid are those that have no split and have a set screw pointing at the center of the die. As far a problems with O rings, I have never seen that on a lock ring, and it should remember that the only function of the lock ring is to keep the die from turning in the press. The threads take all of the sizing load. Comparing using an O ring type lockring to a solid one, even on a good press, I have seen some slight improvement in the runout of sized cases.

 

[dolek]

The lee lock rings are probably the only thing they make thats the best

That and their neck sizing dies.

 

[Cryhavoc]

Hornady & Forster for me...I have a box full of Redding, RCBS & Lee lock rings that were removed & replaced immediately after purchasing dies......

 

[jamesh]

I keep Hornady lock rings on hand just in case I purchase another die of another brand.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

That and their neck sizing dies.

I sure wouldnt know that. We’ll have to take your word for it cause ill never do a comparison on neck dies

 

[oldduc]

I have the Hornady LnL quick change bushings and Hornady lock rings on all my dies except one. I got a Whidden Universal Click Adjustable Lock Ring for a Harrell's 6BRA sizer die, as a test. I haven't decided yet whether is really useful or an answer to a question I didn't have.