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Barrel tuners

I'll only say this...I doubt there is another tuner on the market that has 1% of the national titles and records that mine has set. There's a reason for that kinda stat. It's not an accident. It took a lot of hours(years) and a lot of testing, both in matches and in labs doing vibration analysis testing to learn about what is actually happening with tuners. And yes, they basically all work on the same principle. Mine has features that have since been copied by others( a few others). Ultimately, that's a move toward advancing accuracy, though. I'm for that!

Mine isn't a simple mass but it'd be a lot cheaper to make if it were. After hours of testing many different designs and dampening means, I do make them the way I do because I DO believe it's the best that can be made.

I have no reason to talk down any other product and I DO NOT! But I do believe that mine has a record to stand on that will be hard to ever surpass. It's simply a good and well engineered tuner with support to back it up. It's record speaks for me but I'm always here to help.

For years, the thing holding tuners back, was the lack of someone that had deciphered how to make a tuner work best for the shooter. They always worked but the support behind them was lacking. Results speak clearly but so does the lab testing that allows us to utilize them most efficiently. The most common mistake is moving a tuner too far at a time. A few years ago, there used to be lots of misleading info in that regard and every maker seemed to be drastically different from one another.

The real secret is in using most any tuner to its potential.

If you do that, they can all tune a rifle. Tuning it to shoot small is the easy part. The real trick is in knowing what to do and why, when it goes out of tune.

I only do tuner orders by phone because of this and the method that I've found best to establish a good tune, I can cover in detail while answering questions and going into detail as to why. This method involves a test that shows so much info that you really do need to know to understand why groups form the way they do, repeatably and consistently. One thing that comes to mind is that with my tuners, there is a point when groups stairstep up and to the right. Well, from a rh twist bbl, physics says that's not wind but it happens when out of tune. This is just one example. It's a 20 minute conversation and I do the best I can to explain why things like that happen and how to correct it when it does. That is all... and thank you all very much!l!!--Mike Ezell
 
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I'll only say this...I doubt there is another tuner on the market that has 1% of the national titles and records that mine has set. There's a reason for that kinda stat. It's not an accident. It took a lot of hours(years) and a lot of testing, both in matches and in labs doing vibration analysis testing to learn about what is actually happening with tuners. And yes, they basically all work on the same principle. Mine has features that have since been copied by others( a few others). Ultimately, that's a move toward advancing accuracy, though. I'm for that!

Mine isn't a simple mass but it'd be a lot cheaper to make if it were. After hours of testing many different designs and dampening means, I do make them the way I do because I DO believe it's the best that can be made.

I have no reason to talk down any other product and I DO NOT! But I do believe that mine has a record to stand on that will be hard to ever surpass. It's simply a good and well engineered tuner with support to back it up. It's record speaks for me but I'm always here to help.

For years, the thing holding tuners back, was the lack of someone that had deciphered how to make a tuner work best for the shooter. They always worked but the support behind them was lacking. Results speak clearly but so does the lab testing that allows us to utilize them most efficiently. The most common mistake is moving a tuner too far at a time. A few years ago, there used to be lots of misleading info in that regard and every maker seemed to be drastically different from one another.

The real secret is in using most any tuner to its potential.

If you do that, they can all tune a rifle. Tuning it to shoot small is the easy part. The real trick is in knowing what to do and why, when it goes out of tune.

I only do tuner orders by phone because of this and the method that I've found best to establish a good tune, I can cover in detail while answering questions and going into detail as to why. This method involves a test that shows so much info that you really do need to know to understand why groups form the way they do, repeatably and consistently. One thing that comes to mind is that with my tuners, there is a point when groups stairstep up and to the right. Well, from a rh twist bbl, physics says that's not wind but it happens when out of tune. This is just one example. It's a 20 minute conversation and I do the best I can to explain why things like that happen and how to correct it when it does. That is all... and thank you all very much!l!!--Mike Ezell
I know you understand a tuner and how it all works with many hours of testing. I would say the "Goodling" tuner has the most impressive results that I have seen. I know even in the UBR game the custom SOY uses one, IBS SOY Hunter gun and VFS both use them as well as some of the group shooters. I personally like your tuner as well, but dont have the extra weight to use it in my application. a tuner is only as good as the person using it, if your gun is out of tune and you are hesitant to turn in in a match, then I suggest you not have one. Mike you have become the "tuner" master and opened many eyes on their benifits.
 
I know you understand a tuner and how it all works with many hours of testing. I would say the "Goodling" tuner has the most impressive results that I have seen. I know even in the UBR game the custom SOY uses one, IBS SOY Hunter gun and VFS both use them as well as some of the group shooters. I personally like your tuner as well, but dont have the extra weight to use it in my application. a tuner is only as good as the person using it, if your gun is out of tune and you are hesitant to turn in in a match, then I suggest you not have one. Mike you have become the "tuner" master and opened many eyes on their benifits.
Goes to show, if you make a tuner work to its potential, they do work. It doesn't hurt that Brud is one heck of a good shooter and a good friend. In tune is in tune, even without a tuner. No tuner makes a perfect tune better than perfect but they can slightly broaden a tune window. The best part of a tuner is the ability to maintain peak tune with a given load, as the day goes and tune changes. If Brud and I can ever get a little range time together, I might convert him yet. ;)Thanks Jim
 
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The Beggs Tuner has served me well. I’m a simple man and so I need simple. And I’m old and have a bad memory so I keep notes of what works well at various conditions and adjust accordingly.
You don't get more simple than the Ezell tuner, seriously. I have 5 or 6 on different guns. If you get it talk to mike about "learning" what the tuner does. It is an education!
 
I currently own and use an Ezell tuner on a 300wsm along with the Dan Bramley tuner on a 6GT and 284 Shehane. I've also owned an EC tuner on a 284 Shehane. They all work as advertised and I haven't had an issue with any of them in so far as I was able to make adjustments and fine tune loads to the point where I am very happy with. Despite its light weight, my preference is the Dan Bramley tuner for no other reason than it requires minimal material removal off the barrel and looks very neat, and if due to component selection you are running close to the weight limit, this tuner weighs buggerall.

The Ezell requires more focus and attention on keeping clean as it has a lot more material extending beyond the end of the barrel and therefore fouls up a lot, so I always dip a few patches in Brasso which is excellent at removing the carbon.
After you clean just squirt some carb cleaner up in there
 
Got to say one thing is that Jim Cline is right. I've seen may competitors have tuners on their barrels and they are lost when it comes to moving the tuner if there out of tune. It's like there is this cobra at the end of their barrel and are afraid to touch it. Just makes me chuckle how lost they are about moving it. It's not rocket science. As far as which one to buy, I must own at least 30 Tuners. Ezells, Borden, Beggs, Buky's, Lamberts, Dave Short, Goodlings, Bob Green, PMA's, & Jackie Schmidts. Buy one of Mike Ezell's. Case closed.
 
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After you clean just squirt some carb cleaner up in there
You can do that but carb/brake cleaner is tough on the o-ring at the rear of the tuner. Not a big deal at all. They cost maybe a dime apiece. McMaster has them in bags of 100 for about 10 bucks, iirc. O-rings are standardized in terms of their numbering system. The industry number for that o-ring is 020. It's important to include that first zero. A 020 is not the same as a 20. I think the dimensions are 1/16 thick, 7/8 id and 1 inch od..iirc. Sounds right.
Also, it's a good idea to remove the tuner periodically to clean and re-lube everything anyway. Nothing special, but a good moly or lithium grease is great. I've started using Lucas Red-n Tacky on them recently. Works good. It should be in tune or within a mark when you go back together with it.
The 3 nylon tiped set screws around the outside should be inspected and loosen or remove them before removing the tuner. When going back together, run them in until you feel them touch the tops of the threads and go about 1/4-3/8 of a turn further. They're not meant to be locked solid nor loosened to move the tuner. That's a safe setting on the tips and the tuner should just be very firm to turn.
I know you probably know this stuff Dusty. Just putting it out there for those that may not know yet.
 
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You can do that but carb/brake cleaner is tough on the o-ring at the rear of the tuner. Not a big deal at all. They cost maybe a dime apiece. McMaster has them in bags of 100 for about 10 bucks, iirc. O-rings are standardized in terms of their numbering system. The industry number for that o-ring is 020. It's important to include that first zero. A 020 is not the same as a 20. I think the dimensions are 1/16 thick, 7/8 id and 1 inch od..iirc. Sounds right.
Also, it's a good idea to remove the tuner periodically to clean and re-lube everything anyway. Nothing special, but a good moly or lithium grease is great. I've started using Lucas Red-n Tacky on them recently. Works good. It should be in tune or within a mark when you go back together with it.
The 3 nylon tiped set screws around the outside should be inspected and loosen or remove them before removing the tuner. When going back together, run them in until you feel them touch the tops of the threads and go about 1/4-3/8 of a turn further. They're not meant to be locked solid nor loosened to move the tuner. That's a safe setting on the tips and the tuner should just be very firm to turn.
I know you probably know this stuff Dusty. Just putting it out there for those that may not know yet.
Yes sir. I havent ever got carb cleaner up to the o-ring i just kinda flood the muzzle area with a few blasts. Its never even hit the grease on the threads. Pma also makes a nice tuner cleaner
 
One of my secrets....."Piston Kleen". $40 bucks a gallon. It's a Citrus.
water based carbon remover, It does remove baked hard carbon on
piston tops. It also comes by 55 gallon drum.
That's good to know but I'm talking about a big jag type thing to hold a patch and clean the inside of my tuners and the muzzle.
I'll have to check that stuff out though. Thank you
 
Thanks for the info Dusty. I've made a few here and there. Basically just a big delrin jag. I'll try to figure something out that might be a little better if I can. I mean, it's not exactly rocket surgery but I'm very open to ideas from anyone.
 
I bought a bag of these for other things and found that if I cut the end flat
I can put some carbon cleaner on it and it's soft but has a squared sides
to it and cleans the inside of the tuner and gets into the corner pretty well
and won't damaged the crown.
Comes in multiple sizes. Comparison to a normal size cotton swab.
IMG_1386.jpeg
 
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