AR Accurizing

[VA_XTC_Shooter]

I don’t mind him at all and like his vids.

I've gone to his training twice, very good info.

 

[LVLAaron]

I didn't mean the knock the guy at all. I'd like to take one of his classes and get all the secret information.

 

[LVLAaron]

Picked up a triggertech diamond - It's such a gorgeous piece of equipment I dont want to put it in the gun!

 

[SKWERLZ]

I didn't mean the knock the guy at all. I'd like to take one of his classes and get all the secret information.

I know what you were saying.
He’s pretty direct and hurts a lot of feelings.
I quite appreciate his opinions without brand loyalist slant.

 

[LVLAaron]

I know what you were saying.
He’s pretty direct and hurts a lot of feelings.
I quite appreciate his opinions without brand loyalist slant.

Thinking about it... I dont mind him. But (some of) his followers are annoying. They would shit all over any of this accurizing stuff because it's bad. They can't explain why it's bad, but it's bad.

 

[SKWERLZ]

Thinking about it... I dont mind him. But (some of) his followers are annoying. They would shit all over any of this accurizing stuff because it's bad. They can't explain why it's bad, but it's bad.

The cultists

I’ve learned a ton from his videos.

 

[jelenko]

If you can tolerate him, Chad at School of the American Rifle has some interesting stuff. The guy gauges everything. He's been doing a mystery shopper series where he buys 10 of the same rifles from Ruger, M&P, etc and checks them all in great detail. Spoiler; the results aren't awesome.

I love the gauging he does.

 

[LVLAaron]

I love the gauging he does.

Same. Especially the bolt/gas system. I've gathered some of the tolerances over the years from his videos. He avoids saying the specs but sometimes they slip out.

 

[AccelR8]

I think if you download this and then hunt through it, the specs can be found.

M 16 Technical Datapackage + Aditional Prints + Bolt Schematic : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

M16 Technical Datapackage

archive.org

 

[VA_XTC_Shooter]

99% of sotar specs are based on the TDP. He approaches some things a little different than a machinist. Look at his BCG gages, he prefers to say "efficiency" instead of how many thou clearance. I developed an assessment that incorporates a lot of what he teaches, but quantifies it. I just prefer numbers to refer to.

Like a lot of guys, he is focused on a general AR use area (self defense run at all cost) vs accuracy guns. We all know tip top accuracy may not yield the most reliable gun. This is where the cult comes into play. They can't see beyond their own need.

 

[BKA]

Picked up a triggertech diamond - It's such a gorgeous piece of equipment I dont want to put it in the gun!
View attachment 1651135

Then don't put it in the gun! For PRECISION work, go with a Jard set trigger in an AR - nothing else compares

 

[Twdmar]

My experience with High Strength, High Temp Loctite (620 being one)
has been with the removal of the spiders and lock nuts on Polaris ATV UTV and Snowmobile Drive Clutches
It has to be heated so much that a few times the aluminum almost starts to sag, melt, give way etc
(Big Alum Part drawing all the heat away but heat must still be applied locally to the area until the bond breaks)
or has to be heated repeatedly because it starts to harden right back up once you get about half a turn
if it is not hot enough, and you try to loosen the spider or lock nut, the threads strip
so theres a fine line between hot enough and too hot
(when it comes to Aluminum parts anyway)
---------------------
maybe its a different story with with sleeved parts as opposed to threaded and torqued down?
Im just surprised after dealing with a few stripped clutches from not enough heat to hear a knock with a mallet will loosen a high strength sleeve retainer,
when a sleeve retainer is suppose to retain a sleeve with high strength lol?

I haven't tried it yet because barrels seem to come out easy enough even with loctite, but I would imagine some release agent could just be put inside the receiver before the loctite goes on.

 

[ELR LVR]

I haven't tried it yet because barrels seem to come out easy enough even with loctite, but I would imagine some release agent could just be put inside the receiver before the loctite goes on.

When I was a welder, I always tried to engineer things so I could take them apart, cut the welds
Carbon Arc / whatever if needed for any reason
So a guy doesnt basically trap himself into a hole not being able to fix or repair in the future
I think release agent would be a decent idea.
But I had no idea they came out so easily
Maybe its the aluminum receiver aspect?

 

[Twdmar]

When I was a welder, I always tried to engineer things so I could take them apart if needed for any reason
So a guy doesnt basically trap himself into a hole not being able to fix or repair in the future
I think release agent would be a decent idea.
But I had no idea they came out so easily
Maybe its the aluminum receiver aspect?

Whack the barrel with a big dowel and a hammer

 

[jelenko]

When I was a welder, I always tried to engineer things so I could take them apart, cut the welds
Carbon Arc / whatever if needed for any reason
So a guy doesnt basically trap himself into a hole not being able to fix or repair in the future
I think release agent would be a decent idea.
But I had no idea they came out so easily
Maybe its the aluminum receiver aspect?

It is in part the aluminum receiver. I did use their 'accelerator' once - made it much tougher to get the barrel out.
At the same time, I'm finding that heating the outside of the receiver to just over 200* softens the loctite enough that the wood/delrin dowel/hammer gets it right out.

 

[VA_XTC_Shooter]

I haven't tried it yet because barrels seem to come out easy enough even with loctite, but I would imagine some release agent could just be put inside the receiver before the loctite goes on.

That's what you do if you bed with JB Weld.

 

[Twdmar]

That's what you do if you bed with JB Weld.

True, but it works with adhesives as well.

 

[VA_XTC_Shooter]

True, but it works with adhesives as well.

Correct, wasn't implying you can't. I could've worded the post better.

 

[Twdmar]

Correct, wasn't implying you can't. I could've worded the post b

Don't sweat it. I am not convinced that the 620 sleeve retainer is necessarily the correct glue. We're using it maybe a little differently than it was intended but it has good heat resistance. Some of the other loctite products might be a better choice, especially considering most people don't get their rifle hot enough to damage it.
I say this because I suspect that the gap on some receivers and barrel extensions is big enough that the 620 (which I have tried for this and nothing else) that it doesn't cure quite as intended. Some of the sleeve retainers are intended for a gap in the ten thousandths.
Ive pulled a couple barrels where the loctite was a little soft. Look at the previous comment about the primer making a better bond. 620 is also meant to be removable by pressing the parts out, we can tap barrels out.
Thankfully we have the barrel nut and don't have to rely on glue and I suspect what we are really doing with most rifles is bedding the barrel extension rather than gluing it.

 

[WSnyder]

Loctite 620 gap fill .006-.010”
Loctite 660 gap fill .010-.020”

660 used to be called Quick Metal. We used it a lot in heavy trucking and heavy machinery for all sorts of things but it got used a lot for the inner bearing races on semi truck hubs. For some reason those tended to get pounded out and loose. It never moved and we were always able to get it back apart with a little heat and a hammer