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AR Accurizing

Since you asked ;)

No new build techniques or new fixtures, just using techniques already presented in this thread I put together a low-budget rifle primarily for AR Tactical Rifle Mid Range matches (to 600 yards).

I came by a, I hate to say cheap let's say inexpensive 1-7 barrel blank 20 inches in length. I turned and chambered it with a Wylde reamer. Finished at 18 inches. Muzzle threaded 5/8-24 because this rifle will also do some suppressed varmint shooting but for now it's just got a thread protector on it. Free float hand guard a fixed power 10X SWFA scope, and a lower that is just basically mil-spec. About a 6 lb. trigger.

First outing shooting 62 grain Hornady hpbt, X-Terminator powder and 450 primer and no load development it's a consistent .7 MOA (at 200 yards) from a front rest and rear bag. One problem I was having was the rear bag was hitting the lever that locks the butt stock, causing the butt stock to collapse as the gun recoiled. Duh! Should have seen that coming.

I have switched to a fixed stock but haven't got back to the range. I'd like to see this rifle shoot ½MOA with some work but I guess we'll see if it (and me) are capable.
 
SS. Bore and turn as needed for clearance. They are JB welded to the tail. Here are a couple close ups.

View attachment 1649776View attachment 1649777
So hate to sound like I idiot here but is there a way someone could do this without a lathe ?
Im love these BCA Bolt action uppers but they have a bit too much slop in some and the horizontal force you add when you work the bolt make them over lap and cat the lugs a lot if you not pushing to the left while you work the bolt I feel something like this would help keep things a centered.
Thanks
 
So hate to sound like I idiot here but is there a way someone could do this without a lathe ?
The sleeve needs to be custom machined to fit your bolt carrier to the dimension in the upper; both dimensions (esp the upper) will vary. If you have the ability to obtain the two needed measurements the sleeve could be machined for you to install. Or, just take it to any smith (or any machine shop for that matter, the lower is not involved).
 

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