Seeing as how he's going to have to face down the Loch Ness Monster to access his range Creedmoor is the only answer!Couldn't ya just put some kinda Creedmoor barrel on it and call it good?jd
what specs are you referring to? The TDPs I have looked at have same specs.Sure. I think the old mil spec parts were (on the whole) from consistent vendors that held tolerance.
I think the earlier specs on the M16 were much tighter clearances than later when they opened everything up for sand and dirt.
I've read about guys securing the barrel in the receiver with LoctiteI've always been a big advocate for bedding the barrel with loctite, or using a shrink fit upper
Loctite 620 is a sleeving compound. Wooden dowel rod and mallet knocks barrel out pretty easily.I've read about guys securing the barrel in the receiver with Loctite
I just can't imagine having to remove it later and the possible heat damage due to how hot it must get to soften the loctite.
I don't understand why guys don't bed with JB and mold release the upper instead?
Got it, thanks guys, didn't know.Blue locktite has been my choice for bedding barrel extension to receiver (within reason), bedding gas block to journal and gas tube to block.
My experience with High Strength, High Temp Loctite (620 being one)Loctite is easily defeated with heat, Doesn't matter what number, Heat will loosen it.
I've gotten out a lot of red loctite 620 scope base screws that some bozo used it on by using the smallest oxy acetylene welding tip I have and heat the top of the screw for a couple few seconds is enough to break them loose.My experience with High Strength, High Temp Loctite (620 being one)
has been with the removal of the spiders and lock nuts on Polaris ATV UTV and Snowmobile Drive Clutches
It has to be heated so much that a few times the aluminum almost starts to sag, melt, give way etc
(Big Alum Part drawing all the heat away but heat must still be applied locally to the area until the bond breaks)
or has to be heated repeatedly because it starts to harden right back up once you get about half a turn
if it is not hot enough, and you try to loosen the spider or lock nut, the threads strip
so theres a fine line between hot enough and too hot
(when it comes to Aluminum parts anyway)
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maybe its a different story with with sleeved parts as opposed to threaded and torqued down?
Im just surprised after dealing with a few stripped clutches from not enough heat to hear a knock with a mallet will loosen a high strength sleeve retainer,
when a sleeve retainer is suppose to retain a sleeve with high strength lol?
well ok that makes more sense, theres not a lot of surface area involved thereI've gotten out a lot of red loctite 620 scope base screws that some bozo used it on by using the smallest oxy acetylene welding tip I have and heat the top of the screw for a couple few seconds is enough to break them loose.
A high temp soldering iron works on screws like this too. I repaired MANY poorly mounted stripped screw red dot pistol optic mounts this way.I've gotten out a lot of red loctite 620 scope base screws that some bozo used it on by using the smallest oxy acetylene welding tip I have and heat the top of the screw for a couple few seconds is enough to break them loose.
I like all these ideas very muchHere are my methods of tightening the upper/lower AR receivers:
1. Ream and install a 1/4" shoulder bolt in the front pivot.
2. Ream the rear pin holes and install an oversized pin.
3. Drill and tap a hole in the lower receiver to install a set screw to push against the upper at the rear pin location (Aero Precision lowers have this feature).
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I don’t mind him at all and like his vids.If you can tolerate him, Chad at School of the American Rifle has some interesting stuff. The guy gauges everything. He's been doing a mystery shopper series where he buys 10 of the same rifles from Ruger, M&P, etc and checks them all in great detail. Spoiler; the results aren't awesome.