After Bore Cleaning with JB Bore Paste

[1shot]

If you go to the product page at Gre-Tan Rifles the instructions state to use this Neolube at the Very beginning on a never fired on bore that is spotless, and then clean between each shot for 10-20 round cycles. - My experience is most custom barrels will quit fouling by 10-15 shots using this process. Also the instructions state to not over-clean between uses of Neolube application, but get the copper fouling & carbon out from the shot fired. - The idea is to fill the grain structure with the sub-micron Colloidal Graphite rather than copper & carbon fouling.
It doesn't make a barrel totally "immune" from fouling as no one cleans between every shot after they've in good confidence broken in there barrel. - My observations are, it helps reduce fouling (copper) through normal use. - For me, normal use is shooting 4 targets at a match for record plus the sighters involved for each relay, or if practicing or doing load work-ups 30-40 rounds. - And again, it won't make a marginal barrel or one that has problems associated to being a "copper mine" disappear. - IMO it shortens up break in, and aids in fouling prevention & makes cleaning easier in the long run. - I believe that it can also help an accurate barrel shoot well for longer shot strings before a good cleaning is required.
- Ron -

I have been using this method since 2008 when George Kelbly turned me on to the product. It is without a doubt a product and application procedure that works . I have several barrels in service right now that look like the have 50-100 rounds down the barrel instead of close to 1,000.
My 284 Shehane is fed a steady diet of 180 class bullets at 2,930 fps. and a 6SLR shooting 110 SMK's at 3,055 fps. For any of you shooting simular cartridges, you know these aren't tame loads. and for the record, one is a Brux, the other a Bartlein.
Both barrels clean easily and don't hold copper at all, and haven't since the break-in was completed.
I'm in no way associated with Gre-Tan rifles, and this isn't a solicided testimony, just my .02c on something that works.
I hope this helps.

Lloyd

 

[Paddyd]

I have struggled with understanding what people are really saying with similar statements. Struggling as in I have read/been told about new barrel cleaning (shoot x times, clean, shoot y times, clean, etc.) until you stop seeing copper. However, without cameras, serious scrubbing, etc., doing this at the range undoubtedly leaves some copper laid down in the barrel but just not showing on the patch.

Is the idea that at some point from repeated cleaning shooting / deep cleaning the barrel will end up relatively copper free, or that at some point the areas that are going to copper fowl have fowled and are now more apt to carbon fowl over the top rather than drag more copper?

Which is why I break in barrels using copper erasing powder suck as CFE223 or one of the IMR Enduron line. This keeps the copper from filling tooling burs which when filled with copper prevents the bullets from ironing them out and burnishing. This way all it takes between shots are a couple of quick patches to keep the carbon fouling to a minimum during break in.

 

[wedgy]

Sounds similar to how they treat the bore with HBN, I use 97% or higher Isopropyl alcohol on a bore mop, any less pure and it doesn't seem to stay in suspension as well. Bullets are treated as well but with a tumbling treatment.

 

[memilanuk]

Around here, some of the HBR guys turned me into a product called 'Smooth Kote'. Very similar in concept to the LockEez discussed above, but it uses "deactivated" moly instead of graphite. Basically when applied to a squeaky clean barrel, the film gives that little bit of lubrication that is missing until you have a few foulers down the tube. By that point, the moly has off-gassed and your barrel typically behaves the same after cleaning as it does before - no weird off-call sighters or the first couple rounds being markedly slow.

Not every barrel needs it, but if you have one that takes a few rounds to settle down after cleaning, it might be worth a try.

 

[Tommie]

My experience with Lock-Ease is similar to all the above posts.

 

[centershot]

Great posting!

 

[GSPV]

Don’t over think this, gentlemen. Just put a dot of Lock-Ease on a patch down the barrel after cleaning. Your next shots will more likely be in the group.

 

[Sieg]

Bought a bottle of Lock-Ease on Sunday. My .22lr is consistent at delivering a cold bore stray. It should be a good first test.

Thanks for the insight.

 

[GSPV]

Don’t know if it will act the same on a 22 rimfire with a cold bore shot.

What people are talking about is closing the difference between fouled and newly cleaned.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Bought a bottle of Lock-Ease on Sunday. My .22lr is consistent at delivering a cold bore stray. It should be a good first test.

Thanks for the insight.

Dont think lock eeze will get you there. You need wax and warmth

 

[Sieg]

Don’t know if it will act the same on a 22 rimfire with a cold bore shot.

What people are talking about is closing the difference between fouled and newly cleaned.

​

Dont think lock eeze will get you there. You need wax and warmth

Should have know to be more specific around here..... clean cold bore shot.

Primary purpose is for centerfire.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Should have know to be more specific around here..... clean cold bore shot.

Primary purpose is for centerfire.

Oh ok. You said 22lr

 

[centershot]

So after the initial application of Lock Eeze, how often do you use it? Every time you clean or after every five or so cleanings?

 

[foxguy]

Should have know to be more specific around here..... clean cold bore shot.

Primary purpose is for centerfire.

Sieg,

I believe you will find your first shot will go to point of aim, or closer to point of aim than a cold clean barrel shot would. Some 22LR barrels take a several shots to shot to point of aim, so its going to depend on your barrel.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

So after the initial application of Lock Eeze, how often do you use it? Every time you clean or after every five or so cleanings?

Anytime your barrel is squeaky clean. Just think thats what its for- lubricating a barrel with no carbon.

 

[Sieg]

Sieg,

I believe you will find your first shot will go to point of aim, or closer to point of aim than a cold clean barrel shot would. Some 22LR barrels take a several shots to shot to point of aim, so its going to depend on your barrel.

I will be an interesting experiment. Rifle is a Vudoo with approx. 8K rds through it. At 50yds it's tendency is to toss the first shot .5" off POA @ 10-11 o'clock. Decent entertainment for $3.99, if it doesn't pan out I've got plenty of locks to use it on.

Rimfire consistency isn't.