.308 Win bullet for 1000yds
- Thread starter jccinohio
- Start date
I decided to start with the Hornady 178 HPBT. May try the edm-m or -x at some point.
Should have plenty of scope.. NF ATACR.. had 30 moa when I had it on a 0moa rail.. now it's on a 20 moa rail. Unless I have it on backwards
The 178 BTHP is a good bullet. Should work well for you. If you wanted to try the ELDs then stick with the M as the X is a hunting bullet.
And you should have more than 30 moa of up elevation on an ATACR on a 0 base.
Yeah, I didn't state that correctly.. I did a tall target test to 30 moa with the 0 moa base, the scope had more.. and now definitely enough with the 20 moa rail.
Now I just have to hope Natchez sends me all the same lot numbers..
NZ_Fclass
Silver $$ Contributor
I was being a bit humorous, but he should only need around 15 MoA to 600, assuming a 100 zero, with a 168g at 2750, but 34 to reach a 1000. The March scopes generally have +/- 30 MoA elevation. A quarter turn from the top should be around +27.5 MoA. - 10 MoA per revolution.
It depends on several factors but I know, at 4000' elevation, I can get to 1000 yards with a 155 Berger out of my 20" FN Patrol.
If the wind blows and your shooting a 155gr CC out of a 20"308 just check that it doesn't blow back into your face. Id also start with the 185gr Jugs
My 20" with 168 SMK runs out to 600 great. I can get another 200 yards with the 175 TMK. All over the place at 1000.
With my 308 and 26” barrel it takes me around 31.5 moa to reach 1000 with a stiff load of Varget or imr 4064 and 168 eldm. This is at 34’ above sea level and 50% humidity. Zeroed 1.75” high at 100. As stated many times the wind call is quite challenging. 800 is not a problem, 900 is fine but things definitely get more interesting after that. My 20” 7.62 x 51 is maxed out around 800 with 168 amax. The 178 eldm and 185 Jugg is another bullet I’d like to try
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I've had good luck out of a 24 inch barrel with the 185 Juggernaut in the past.Right now I'm working on the 169 grain Sierra and it's been doing good so far for me,but this has been an incredibly windy spring here,so I haven't got it out to 1,000 yet.Last Sunday I was at 750 with my 26 in barrel 1-10 twist rifle with the 169's and it was doing what it should be doing.I was able to keep it on a 16 inch square plate despite a wicked wind that was gusting to 20 MPH and switching directions so bad that I couldn't get 5 on the way before it went nuts.I was also shooting my little 6.5 Creedmoor with a 22 inch barrel and it was putting 140 grain ELD-M's on the plate with a little less compensation for the wind needed.Hope to get them to 1,000 this weekend,but I'll not be doing it in the wind like last weekend.Good to practice wind calls,but when it's as bad as it was,it's basically wasting ammunition,especially when I'm trying to work with a new bullet.
The local Sherriff's office was issuing 168s to the snipers and they try to not have to make long shoots. But homeland (or somebody with clout) is making them get better at what they do. So they tried 168s at 1000 and decide they needed a very big target when they went subsonic. With other tests with 175s and 168s some 168s did better. The initial batch they tried it was comical.
MGYSGT
Silver $$ Contributor
A myth, That's what those are. A story started by berger lovers to keep us looking for Sierra's instead of berbers.
My friend that was teaching them asked what size target they needed and they had no idea. Never shoot near that far, so they cut loose on his steel, nary a hit. one of them looking through a spotting scope was seeing the hits on the berm. He says maybe we could hit a pickup truck. They were bragging about this surplus armored car they have owned for years, and my friend says if you are in that thing and I shoot my 300Lapua it may not penetrate but it will spall and cut you to pieces. He had to go the industrial supply and get some pieces of 1/2 steel, it was not armor plate but when hiding behind a car or truck nothing in it is either. His 300lapua would go through like it was drilled out to 600yds, the department's 338 would at 500 but not at 600.
Understand that completely with the older bullet designs. The BC on the 168 eldm is actually higher than the 175 Sierra which can help make up the difference. I've never tried the 178 eldm or the 185 Jugg as my barrel is a 12 twist. My 20 is a gas gun with a 10 twist and is respectable to 800.You mean they "learned" what we "learned" in Nam in the sixties about the 168 ? Don't shoot at anything smaller than a Jeep beyond 700 yards ?
Shooting 147s out of my 6.5-06 has turned out to be another ballgame entirely. If I can just get my load tweaked.
The 175 SMK may have been developed specifically for and in Remington M-24’s. Of course a good bullet doesn't lose that characteristic, but these are one hole bullets through a heavy 700.
Seated here with IMR 4895, for my gun 42.2 grains, these bullets shoot in the 1’s at 100 yards.
To me, free floating is not a settled issue. The question I’d have for those most in favor of bedding or even glueing would be, why stop at the action? My thinking has been that the barreled action is a “unit” and if squirming around loosely or vibrating is bad for the action, to do, it may be bad for the barrel.
I haven’t had many of my HS stocks bedded because the action already sits on a metal block, but I have no regrets with this one.
Remington’s detachable box wasn’t extremely popular IMO, at least I don’t see it much. The stock needs to be relieved for the box’s inset and integral release buttons.
Most bottom metal handles the securing and release of the box but Remington put that feature in the box itself.
This bedding job is so tight so as to discourage unnecessary removal, and I simply take at his word, my bedder’s assurance that it can be removed.
This is one of those guns where a bunch of components that were not actually very expensive or “special” at the time, can be assembled in a way to be one of those permanent “keepers” that I’d rely on as implicitly as their “betters” in the most important instances.
Seated here with IMR 4895, for my gun 42.2 grains, these bullets shoot in the 1’s at 100 yards.
To me, free floating is not a settled issue. The question I’d have for those most in favor of bedding or even glueing would be, why stop at the action? My thinking has been that the barreled action is a “unit” and if squirming around loosely or vibrating is bad for the action, to do, it may be bad for the barrel.
I haven’t had many of my HS stocks bedded because the action already sits on a metal block, but I have no regrets with this one.
Remington’s detachable box wasn’t extremely popular IMO, at least I don’t see it much. The stock needs to be relieved for the box’s inset and integral release buttons.
Most bottom metal handles the securing and release of the box but Remington put that feature in the box itself.
This bedding job is so tight so as to discourage unnecessary removal, and I simply take at his word, my bedder’s assurance that it can be removed.
This is one of those guns where a bunch of components that were not actually very expensive or “special” at the time, can be assembled in a way to be one of those permanent “keepers” that I’d rely on as implicitly as their “betters” in the most important instances.
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Uh thats a hard NO on the 168 SMK it wont make it……
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