Welcome to the new HQ

[Florida Wally]

Metal wainscot and wood will look good. The picture with the machines gives some perspective - looks like a pretty big shop. Nice!

 

[Walt Krafft]

That would look great. Need something behind the machines to keep them clean.

 

[X Count]

Kinda sorta moved in. I can at least cut chips again!

Testing out one of the "low bay" lights. Kind of hard to tell with just 1 how it will work out. With 9 more I'm sure the shadows disappear.


View attachment 1752656

My shop has a pitched roof and I run LED floodlights mounted on the roof 1/4 way in from the wall pointing across to the opposite wall.

This "intersecting fire" approach seems to work pretty well at preventing shadows instead of pointing the light directly down. It prevents shadows when your working over the top of a job.

I still run lighting on machines to get in and around things.

 

[Infrequent Shooter]

Lookin real good LVLA! Impressive amount of work.

 

[ricco1949]

I'd be sheet rockin and primering only above the wainscot. A pro spraying only would be done in less than a day. My friend sprayed my 28x48 shop in about half a day masking 8 windows, 2 man doors and 4 overhead doors. Still looks good 15 years later.

Don't know if you are intending to DIY or contract it. I suspect if you DIY and choose the T&G you'll wish you hadn't about half way through..LOL.

 

[LVLAaron]

I'd be sheet rockin and primering only above the wainscot. A pro spraying only would be done in less than a day. My friend sprayed my 28x48 shop in about half a day masking 8 windows, 2 man doors and 4 overhead doors. Still looks good 15 years later.

Don't know if you are intending to DIY or contract it. I suspect if you DIY and choose the T&G you'll wish you hadn't about half way through..LOL.

I'm definitely doing wood of some kind. I like being able to screw anything to the wall where I want.

 

[AlNyhus]

I'm definitely doing wood of some kind. I like being able to screw anything to the wall where I want.

I did white washed tongue and groove on the She Shack I built for my wife. In a project as big as your shop, I'd consider spraying the pine t&g a nice white before going up with it.

That's a lot of t&g. But if that's your vision, do it!

Good shootin' -Al

 

[DaveTooley]

Take a look at LP Smart siding. I'm finishing up a house in the mountains and used it vs cement siding. You might consider just a 9' vertical panel all the way around. I have sheetrock in my current shop and it gets very little debris on it. I'd run vertical panels with a 6" kick board around the floor.

Engineered Wood Siding & Trim for Professionals | LP Building Solutions

LP SmartSide engineered wood trim & siding resists damage from impacts. Learn more about our engineered wood siding and trim products today.

www.lpcorp.com

 

[TZaun]

Big fan of Smart Siding. We put it on our house in ‘18. In ‘22 we had a hailstorm that dented up the steel on the shop, pummeled the gutters and downspouts, broke windows, and damaged doors. Not one chip in the Smart Siding.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Take a look at LP Smart siding. I'm finishing up a house in the mountains and used it vs cement siding. You might consider just a 9' vertical panel all the way around. I have sheetrock in my current shop and it gets very little debris on it. I'd run vertical panels with a 6" kick board around the floor.

Engineered Wood Siding & Trim for Professionals | LP Building Solutions

LP SmartSide engineered wood trim & siding resists damage from impacts. Learn more about our engineered wood siding and trim products today.

www.lpcorp.com

My wife was asking about some nickel-gap the other day. Thanks for the link.

 

[tobnpr]

Engineered wood siding like that suggested requires a structural substrate- OSB or plywood- which you need anyway for your mounting requirements.

It cannot be installed directly over the 2× cross-furring currently installed.

It's your shop, your $$ to drop obviously...but IMO the easy button if you want a reasonably aesthetic finished surface would be B/C plywood painted with a durable water-based enamel or industrial epoxy paint. You could cover the joints with 1×2 battens if desired.

 

[LVLAaron]

The upper walls are a really low priority. I'm sure at some point I'll just put up some half decent 3/4 plywood.

 

[DaveTooley]

Engineered wood siding like that suggested requires a structural substrate- OSB or plywood- which you need anyway for your mounting requirements.

It cannot be installed directly over the 2× cross-furring currently installed.

It's your shop, your $$ to drop obviously...but IMO the easy button if you want a reasonably aesthetic finished surface would be B/C plywood painted with a durable water-based enamel or industrial epoxy paint. You could cover the joints with 1×2 battens if desired.

I agree with you for exterior use. Not so much for interior use. LP has one style with a 9/16" thickness. Almost identical thickness of T&G pine. Any heavy loads would need to find the 2X blocking anyway.

 

[Skedaddle Shooter]

I'm definitely doing wood of some kind. I like being able to screw anything to the wall where I want.

The T & G installation would work over horizontal stringers if you install it in a vertical orientation. That also would keep you from having a bunch of little dirt collecting shelves you would have in a horizontal installation. I ran a metal wainscot in the my main shop but in my wood shop portion I found some imported prefinished plywood at our hardwood suppliers yard. They supply cabinet makers. The prefinished Birch plywood was less expensive than drywall once it was taped and painted and you have backing wherever you want to mount things.

 

[LVLAaron]

I'd be OK with vertical nickel gap. Before I make any big decisions I'll visit my local bender lumber

 

[joshb]

The upper walls are a really low priority. I'm sure at some point I'll just put up some half decent 3/4 plywood.

Look at T-111. It’s a cheap outdoor siding product. It used to come in 8 and 9 foot sheets. A better look than plain plywood. Inside, it should last forever.
I’ve put up a ton of tongue and groove. If you do it, watch out for too much “paint” on the tongues and in the grooves if you prefinish it. Makes assembly a big pain.

 

[LVLAaron]

Look at T-111. It’s a cheap outdoor siding product. It used to come in 8 and 9 foot sheets. A better look than plain plywood. Inside, it should last forever.
I’ve put up a ton of tongue and groove. If you do it, watch out for too much “paint” on the tongues and in the grooves if you prefinish it. Makes assembly a big pain.

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I'd get it pre-finished. I like to be lazy when I can.

 

[joshb]

Check your pricing against this. Since you’re set up for vertical install, you could order a pallet of 10 foot or 12 foot lengths.

 

[LVLAaron]

Check your pricing against this. Since you’re set up for vertical install, you could order a pallet of 10 foot or 12 foot lengths.View attachment 1753403

Exact same price! 1.67 sq/ft

 

[JFrank]

54x80 would run about $9K to do the 14 ft walls at $11.42 a stick. ( if my math is correct .. I’m a little rusty)
Plus labor