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First Remington 700 build. Do nothing at all, true the face or full blueprint?

This is just one of the 700 bolts that the late Stan Ware did one piece sleeves on for me. The receiver raceway was taken to .705 and this one piece sleeve attached to the bolt body and turned to .7035. Then the bolt handle was reattached and the extraction camming optimized. There were a couple done with .7025 bolt bodies for 'dog guns, etc. (.17 Remington, .17 Javelina, 243 Ackley, etc).
ZEyt1ull.jpg


This is a bolt from one of my Kelbly's actions that Mike Bryant fitted a rear sleeve to.
WCp9sZtl.jpg


In both of these cases, and the several others that I've had done, there was significant improvements in accuracy. The shape of the groups through the tuning process was also improved.

Good shootin' :) -Al
 
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This is just one of the 700 bolts that the late Stan Ware did one piece sleeves on for me. The receiver raceway was taken to .705 and this one piece sleeve attached to the bolt body and turned to .7035. Then the bolt handle was reattached and the extraction camming optimized. There were a couple done with .7025 bolt bodies for 'dog guns, etc. (.17 Remington, .17 Javelina, 243 Ackley, etc).
ZEyt1ull.jpg


This is a bolt from one of my Kelbly's actions that Mike Bryant fitted a rear sleeve to.
WCp9sZtl.jpg


In both of these cases, and the several others that I've had done, there was significant improvements in accuracy. The shape of the groups through the tuning process was also improved.

Good shootin' :) -Al

Very nice!

Do you weld the handle back on?
 
From my experience the set up effort to check the receiver is as much effort as the machining. For the ones I’ve done, Once indicated in, I just skim the lugs, face and threads. Most have been good with minimal cleanup.


Another thing to consider is bushing the firing pin. It’s common to make it 0.062”. To help with material flow/blanking primers. But the other aspect is making the bushing so it supports the FP in the cocked position. It is a big improvement for consistent fire control.

I switched from bushing, sleeving, truing etc the rem bolts and just buy PTG bolts to the dimension I want it. The big issue is the wait time. There is a decent market for factory bolts so the price difference is not too bad.

Also reworking the cock on close for a more even hand off and correcting FP fall helps if your shooting off bags. May not improve accuracy but it helps prevent upsetting the gun in the bags.
 
This has been a great read.
Now that it's slowed, I have 2 ??s

1 How much does this work cost?
And 2 How much is a new custom action?
last custom i purchased was right at 2000- i dont think i could get over 300 each for my R700 actions. i think i will be keeping them. i think for 300 i could get a R700 cleaned up — that would be having a trued 700 for 600 or a custom for 2000. wats a guy to do?
 
This has been a great read.
Now that it's slowed, I have 2 ??s

1 How much does this work cost?
And 2 How much is a new custom action?
For a complete blueprint? More than it's worth. Unless you HAVE to use a 700 for some reason like the vintage sniper match.

For not much more than a free 700 and a full work up, you can get a much better action that doesn't need anything, for 775.
 
For a complete blueprint? More than it's worth. Unless you HAVE to use a 700 for some reason like the vintage sniper match.

For not much more than a free 700 and a full work up, you can get a much better action that doesn't need anything, for 775.
100% not worth it, unless like Aaron said situation or you’ve already got the tooling to true then up.

Lots of actions in that low price range that are plenty good if you’re not shooting benchrest with them. In addition to the Mack Bros…Zermatt Origin, Kelbly Atlas, Defiance Classic, Stiller Predator, etc…I’m sure there are others…just stay away from the double ejectors, they solve a problem that doesn’t exist and create pressure issues early.
 
I went to Gordy's week long class, what feels like a decade ago. He spent a lot of the time talking about truing 700's. At lunch one day I asked him "Why spend so much time / focus when amazing custom actions are available for not much more than a 700" - He said "You'd be surprised"

Boy was he right.
 
I'm a bit of a cheapskate ... other than my booze ...

The reamer was a fair bit on the 'spensive side, so I turned a shaft to lap them true. But I was doing only for family and friends.

I 'think' I DID buy the reamer eventually, but it was mainly used as an alignment mandrel after lapping. Had to modify the bushings by cutting them down to .2" engagement or I couldn't get the damn thing together without something (the mandrel) being warped. 'I squared' function ... or is it the 3rd or 4th power? ... wait for it ...

Some of these dogs were never going to clean up at .705 ... or whatever it is anyway ...

FWIW, the most fun was barreling a Norwegian Krag. 6.5 X 55 ... 'Skan' ... not Swede... don't ask ...

Barrel thread is left hand ... don't remember if LH ... and ... Metric or Imperial?

The one he sold me NEEDS to be exercised once I'm mobile ...

I miss you Bud ...

"You know what they say about Scotch, don't you?"

No, what ...

"It's all the same ... (me, he's clueless) ... it just tastes different" ...

GRRRRR .......
 
I went to Gordy's week long class, what feels like a decade ago. He spent a lot of the time talking about truing 700's. At lunch one day I asked him "Why spend so much time / focus when amazing custom actions are available for not much more than a 700" - He said "You'd be surprised"

Boy was he right.
I have a real job and because of that I don’t do anything I don’t want to do…I’ve done three and they were a PIA and felt like a Remington at the end. Here's my problem…the end of the day when I’m done it’s still a Remington and not worth anymore to most than when I start. It’s hard for me to take a pile of money from a guy to make it worth my time knowing that he’s really just more upside down in a Remington than he should be…sure, it’ll shoot well but take anything in our list above and you’ll be money ahead. In the end I feel like they have to not be happy with me.

The last few, I just told them I wasn’t their man and gave them two guys numbers that would do it. I’m shocked as many do it as they do.
 
For a complete blueprint? More than it's worth. Unless you HAVE to use a 700 for some reason like the vintage sniper match.

For not much more than a free 700 and a full work up, you can get a much better action that doesn't need anything, for 775.
That's a really good price and with every boltface option
Although
Every option says "Out of Stock"
which is another issue when buying a custom action
Wait time
 
That's a really good price and with every boltface option
Although
Every option says "Out of Stock"
which is another issue when buying a custom action
Wait time
The single shots are done in runs. Get on their notification list and they'll let you know when they're available.

You may want to give them a call. The last one I got showed 'Out Of Stock' but they had one available.
 
I know I have mentioned my method for reducing bolt clearance when the bolt is closed. I install dovetailed inserts at the rear of the bolt. I will be producing a YT video showing this in the next couple of weeks (I got sidetracked by prep for the trip to the Tack Driver match). The inserts are then turned to a close fit in the bore of the receiver. I use this same mod on other bolt actions as well as on Remingtons. If the bolt is centered at the rear, and the locking lugs and seats are perpendicular, the front will take care of itself. I have used a couple of methods to align the front as well but have not seen a lot of benefit.
By the way, the very best shooting Remington I ever had, was unaltered except for a light cut on the receiver face when I first re-barreled it. WH
 
I install dovetailed inserts at the rear of the bolt. I will be producing a YT video showing this in the next couple of weeks (I got sidetracked by prep for the trip to the Tack Driver match). The inserts are then turned to a close fit in the bore of the receiver. I use this same mod on other bolt actions as well as on Remingtons. If the bolt is centered at the rear, and the locking lugs and seats are perpendicular, the front will take care of itself. I have used a couple of methods to align the front as well but have not seen a lot of benefit.
Yes you have. I haven't done it in awhile but I did install PTFE o-rings in the barrel tenon after you posted that idea years ago. Al Nyhus asked about it some time ago and I dug out the o-ring size but I'm not sure if he ever did anything with it.
WH/BL dovetails.
Leeper Dovetails Filled-0 (2).jpgLeeper Dovetails Finished-0.jpg
 
They were 11/16" ID o-rings, as I recall. My idea, of course, was to align the bolt while isolating the bolt from the barrel.
Another technique was to true the locking lug recess, then use inserts pressed into the front of the lugs (I used 1/8" brass buttons). Both systems (the o-rings and the buttons) were really just solutions to a mostly non-existent problem. I suppose I could have promoted the heck out of all of my alignment schemes, but it would rely heavily on BS! I do believe that tightening up the fit at the rear is truly beneficial though. So is a good-fitting bolt sleeve and cocking piece. Whether improving alignment is done with dovetail inserts, a sleeve, or even screws, probably doesn't matter. I knew one guy who used set screws in the receiver bridge. His rifle shot well too. WH
 
Good answers above. I have not had to do anything to over 100 late rr or rar actions. I do question your headspace measurement. Should be 0.698 from the front reciever face to the bolt face.
The OP is referring to the headspace number from a match gage set. The dimension from the BF to the shoulder datum line, not the BF to receiver face.
 

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