• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Time to make the donuts....

Sierra jackets are pretty dark and dull compared to j4’s.
I received .30 caliber Sierra and J4 jackets. Both in this caliber have the same color/appearance.(normal, not tarnish).
I think back earlier in this string, Randy Robinett posted something about removing the tarnish from discolored jackets.
Washing with a citric acid solution and detergent usually leaves then looking as usual
 
This is the second batch of jackets I've received in this color.
Has anyone else received them like this?
I'm placing alongside some jackets in a normal color for comparison...
Liseo, get some powdered citric acid, and a large (ish) pot/kettle and fill with enough water to cover however many jackets you desire, but not cause over-flowing. Bring the water to boil and stir in 1 table spoon FULL of the citric acid, then add the jackets - less than a minute, they should look like new.
You can rinse then dry, or, submerse them in acetone, then separate from the acetone, spread on towel(s) and they'll dry pronto.

Presume those are Sierra jackets . . . maybe some Hines left-overs: needing to de-tarnish both
brands is not uncommon. ;) RG

P.S. here's a short video link: < http://www.bibullets.com/bullet-making/ >
If this link doesn/t work, go to < http://www.bibullets.com > and way on the right hand side of the top menu, just to the right of photos/videos, click on the three dots, then click on bullet making.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, Jim. You've got a good approach to this and it will pay off nicely.

Once you get the package of prophylactics* for when (not if.. when :eek:) you stick a bullet in the point die, you'll be ready to Rule The World. :cool:

Good shootin' :) -Al
* Don't carry them in your wallet.
 
The doubts and questions never end...

Is there a consensus on what diameter the jacket should be?
For .30 caliber, one manufacturer measures .3061X" and another, .3074X"

One more thing. Let's suppose you want to make a modification to the process (CS punch smaller or bigger, more or less pressure, etc.) and intend to test it by shooting. Do you let it rest between core seating and point up or do you perform the steps without resting between them?
 
Last edited:
Liseo, get some powdered citric acid, and a large (ish) pot/kettle and fill with enough water to cover however many jackets you desire, but not cause over-flowing. Bring the water to boil and stir in 1 table spoon FULL of the citric acid, then add the jackets - less than a minute, they should look like new.
You can rinse then dry, or, submerse them in acetone, then separate from the acetone, spread on towel(s) and they'll dry pronto.

Presume those are Sierra jackets . . . maybe some Hines left-overs: needing to de-tarnish both
brands is not uncommon. ;) RG

P.S. here's a short video link: < http://www.bibullets.com/bullet-making/ >
If this link doesn/t work, go to < http://www.bibullets.com > and way on the right hand side of the top menu, just to the right of photos/videos, click on the three dots, then click on bullet making.

Is the tarnished jacket just a visual issue?
 
The doubts and questions never end...


One more thing. Let's suppose you want to make a modification to the process (CS punch smaller or bigger, more or less pressure, etc.) and intend to test it by shooting. Do you let it rest between core seating and point up or do you perform the steps without resting between them?

I stopped by a shooters place last month. A well known shooter. He tests bullets in his tunnel. Core seats, points up, and shoots them. If they shoot, he makes more right away.

When this guy talks, I listen.

Later

Dave
 
Thanks, Jim. You've got a good approach to this and it will pay off nicely.

Once you get the package of prophylactics* for when (not if.. when :eek:) you stick a bullet in the point die, you'll be ready to Rule The World. :cool:

Good shootin' :) -Al
* Don't carry them in your wallet.
Making bullets is several levels deeper then I plan to travel down the rabbit hole… but I’m still interested in the process. Perhaps just a lack of my understanding the terminology, but isn’t the process of closing the jacket after seating the core called “pointing” or is there another “pointing” step to form a smaller meplat?
 
Making bullets is several levels deeper then I plan to travel down the rabbit hole… but I’m still interested in the process. Perhaps just a lack of my understanding the terminology, but isn’t the process of closing the jacket after seating the core called “pointing” or is there another “pointing” step to form a smaller meplat?
Yes, 'pointing' is done after the core is seated.

There is another process also called 'pointing' where already made bullets have the finished bullet tips reformed, primarily to uniform the B.C. of each bullet.

Hope this helps. -Al
 
I stopped by a shooters place last month. A well known shooter. He tests bullets in his tunnel. Core seats, points up, and shoots them. If they shoot, he makes more right away.

When this guy talks, I listen.

Later

Dave
Dave

I understand. But it seems to me that if it rests for a few days, the diameter of the bullet tends to decrease a little.
I believe that the degree of shrinkage is due to several factors, such as the hardness and thickness of the jacket.
With this in mind, wouldn't the behavior bullet change, if fired immediately after being produced compared to one that has rested for a few days?
Just hypothetically, for the sake of discussion.
 
The doubts and questions never end...

Is there a consensus on what diameter the jacket should be?
For .30 caliber, one manufacturer measures .3061X" and another, .3074X"

One more thing. Let's suppose you want to make a modification to the process (CS punch smaller or bigger, more or less pressure, etc.) and intend to test it by shooting. Do you let it rest between core seating and point up or do you perform the steps without resting between them?
Seating cores and pointing up bullets is a rather violent action considering the way the metal is being compressed and stretched. So We let them rest for at least 24 hours after the core seat for no other reason than some really knowledgeable bullet makers say it’s a good idea.

However, I have found that the pointed up bullet stays put. I have a “master” core seated jacket and pointed up bullet that I strive to duplicate each time, and Niether has changed in over a year.

Dave Coots does make an excellent point. Regardless of the various steps you take in making your bullets, the only thing that counts is how they shoot. And just as important, you have to be able to tell the difference between a really great shooting bullet and one that is just good.

I believe in the world of custom bullet making, there are no “bad bullets”. But just like everything else involved in the extreme accuracy Disciplines, we are all looking for that magic pill that, at least in our own mind, is a cut above.
 
Yes, 'pointing' is done after the core is seated.

There is another process also called 'pointing' where already made bullets have the finished bullet tips reformed, primarily to uniform the B.C. of each bullet.

Hope this helps. -Al
Thanks for the explanation! Do custom bullet makers commonly perform the second pointing operation?
 
Thanks for the explanation! Do custom bullet makers commonly perform the second pointing operation?
The realm of true custom bullets tend to be the province of Benchrest Shooters, I doubt there are any serious Short Range Shooters that do anything to the metplate, (tip), of their bullets after it comes out of the point up die.
The reason being, the purpose ofsecondary tipping of the bullet, or closing the metplate, is to increase the BC of the bullet. That is a non factor in Short Range Benchrest. In fact, I doubt any serious Short Range Shooters would want to do anything to what is basically a perfect bullet out of his dies.

Long Range might be a different thing. Bart Sauter makes some of the finest custom long range 6mm Benchrest Bullets you can buy. Whether shooters are repointing his, or any of the other customs, I do not know.

Longer ranges out past 600 yards is a different game.

Keep in mind, I am not talking about mass produced bullets such a Bergers, Sierras, Hornadys, etc. I know several F-Class shooters that do repoint the Sierra Match Kings and Berger Hybrids. My best friend is playing around with the David Tubb 115 6MM. I think Sierra makes them and they have definetly been repointed.
They shoot pretty darned good out of his Dasher.
 
Last edited:
The realm of true custom bullets tend to be the province of Benchrest Shooters, I doubt there are any serious Short Range Shooters that do anything to the metplate, (tip), of their bullets after it comes out of the point up die.
The reason being, the purpose ofsecondary tipping of the bullet, or closing the metplate, is to increase the BC of the bullet. That is a non factor in Short Range Benchrest. In fact, I doubt any serious Short Range Shooters would want to do anything to what is basically a perfect bullet out of his dies.
I’ve been interested in trying tipping, but worried that it would distort the jacket. Is this a valid concern?
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
167,454
Messages
2,232,938
Members
80,447
Latest member
Nungut
Back
Top