Schippergreg
Silver $$ Contributor
Sierra jackets are pretty dark and dull compared to j4’s.
I received .30 caliber Sierra and J4 jackets. Both in this caliber have the same color/appearance.(normal, not tarnish).Sierra jackets are pretty dark and dull compared to j4’s.
Washing with a citric acid solution and detergent usually leaves then looking as usualI think back earlier in this string, Randy Robinett posted something about removing the tarnish from discolored jackets.
Liseo, get some powdered citric acid, and a large (ish) pot/kettle and fill with enough water to cover however many jackets you desire, but not cause over-flowing. Bring the water to boil and stir in 1 table spoon FULL of the citric acid, then add the jackets - less than a minute, they should look like new.This is the second batch of jackets I've received in this color.
Has anyone else received them like this?
I'm placing alongside some jackets in a normal color for comparison...
Ah yes, it was the video where I saw itP.S. here's a short video link: < http://www.bibullets.com/bullet-making/ >
If this link doesn/t work, go to < http://www.bibullets.com > and way on the right hand side of the top menu, just to the right of photos/videos, click on the three dots, then click on bullet making.
Liseo, get some powdered citric acid, and a large (ish) pot/kettle and fill with enough water to cover however many jackets you desire, but not cause over-flowing. Bring the water to boil and stir in 1 table spoon FULL of the citric acid, then add the jackets - less than a minute, they should look like new.
You can rinse then dry, or, submerse them in acetone, then separate from the acetone, spread on towel(s) and they'll dry pronto.
Presume those are Sierra jackets . . . maybe some Hines left-overs: needing to de-tarnish both
brands is not uncommon.RG
P.S. here's a short video link: < http://www.bibullets.com/bullet-making/ >
If this link doesn/t work, go to < http://www.bibullets.com > and way on the right hand side of the top menu, just to the right of photos/videos, click on the three dots, then click on bullet making.
The doubts and questions never end...
One more thing. Let's suppose you want to make a modification to the process (CS punch smaller or bigger, more or less pressure, etc.) and intend to test it by shooting. Do you let it rest between core seating and point up or do you perform the steps without resting between them?
Making bullets is several levels deeper then I plan to travel down the rabbit hole… but I’m still interested in the process. Perhaps just a lack of my understanding the terminology, but isn’t the process of closing the jacket after seating the core called “pointing” or is there another “pointing” step to form a smaller meplat?Thanks, Jim. You've got a good approach to this and it will pay off nicely.
Once you get the package of prophylactics* for when (not if.. when) you stick a bullet in the point die, you'll be ready to Rule The World.
Good shootin'-Al
* Don't carry them in your wallet.
Yes, 'pointing' is done after the core is seated.Making bullets is several levels deeper then I plan to travel down the rabbit hole… but I’m still interested in the process. Perhaps just a lack of my understanding the terminology, but isn’t the process of closing the jacket after seating the core called “pointing” or is there another “pointing” step to form a smaller meplat?
DaveI stopped by a shooters place last month. A well known shooter. He tests bullets in his tunnel. Core seats, points up, and shoots them. If they shoot, he makes more right away.
When this guy talks, I listen.
Later
Dave
While primarily a cosmetic issue, it IS oxidation, therefore, somewhat abrasive - don't want that running through the dies. Perhaps George Ulrich will chime in here, with better assessment of potential wear on carbide dies. RGIs the tarnished jacket just a visual issue?
Seating cores and pointing up bullets is a rather violent action considering the way the metal is being compressed and stretched. So We let them rest for at least 24 hours after the core seat for no other reason than some really knowledgeable bullet makers say it’s a good idea.The doubts and questions never end...
Is there a consensus on what diameter the jacket should be?
For .30 caliber, one manufacturer measures .3061X" and another, .3074X"
One more thing. Let's suppose you want to make a modification to the process (CS punch smaller or bigger, more or less pressure, etc.) and intend to test it by shooting. Do you let it rest between core seating and point up or do you perform the steps without resting between them?
Thanks for the explanation! Do custom bullet makers commonly perform the second pointing operation?Yes, 'pointing' is done after the core is seated.
There is another process also called 'pointing' where already made bullets have the finished bullet tips reformed, primarily to uniform the B.C. of each bullet.
Hope this helps. -Al
The realm of true custom bullets tend to be the province of Benchrest Shooters, I doubt there are any serious Short Range Shooters that do anything to the metplate, (tip), of their bullets after it comes out of the point up die.Thanks for the explanation! Do custom bullet makers commonly perform the second pointing operation?
I’ve been interested in trying tipping, but worried that it would distort the jacket. Is this a valid concern?The realm of true custom bullets tend to be the province of Benchrest Shooters, I doubt there are any serious Short Range Shooters that do anything to the metplate, (tip), of their bullets after it comes out of the point up die.
The reason being, the purpose ofsecondary tipping of the bullet, or closing the metplate, is to increase the BC of the bullet. That is a non factor in Short Range Benchrest. In fact, I doubt any serious Short Range Shooters would want to do anything to what is basically a perfect bullet out of his dies.
