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Wearing eyeglasses while using a riflescope

I like your flair of the dramatic for sighting situations. Love the post.

You're absolutely correct about polarizers being 1 or 2 F-stops. As I was explaining to someone in a private DM exchange earlier, the difference between what works in photography and what would work for the mark 1 eyeball, is the fact that in photography, we have better exposure control. We have aperture control, shutter speed, and ISO. If I reduce the aperture, I can decrease the shutter speed to make up for it, or I can change the ISO (sensitivity), or a combination of both, and still have correct exposure. The reasons for reducing aperture would be to get greater Depth Of Field (DOF). If I use a polarizer, I do not get greater DOF, I just get less light to the sensor or film, and I make it up with the shutter speed of the ISO.

In a riflescope, reducing the aperture will increase the DOF, but you can't increase the shutter speed. The "ISO" will change as your pupil dilates but that takes a bit of time and only goes so far, especially for old geezers.

Top end optics have methods for controlling lens flare built-in. Over at Snipershide, the Dark Lord of Optics, keeps reminding everyone that March has the best flare control of all the scopes he's tested, and you can use a sunshade if you get too close to the sun when aiming. Point being, I don't think it's worth the 1 to 2 stops (50% or 75% reduction on light) into the riflescope to deal with something that's already being addressed.

I tried some circular polarizers for my Kowa 82SV, and it just made everything darker and brought in nothing that I could detect. I have circular polarizers for a few of my camera lenses, they provided for some dramatic pictures when I was shooting 35mm film, but it's been a quarter century since I've shot film. Nowadays, we can simulate polarizers in PP for digital pictures, and apply as little or as much as we want. (Crap, before I forget: PP = post processing, photoshop.)

I have come to the conclusion that I want absolutely nothing to (further) distort the image that comes from the eyepieces of my eye-wateringly expensive riflescopes. That's why I am so impressed with the Trivex stuff. I cannot discern a difference between naked eye and Trivex glasses.
Please continue to share your findings and experiences.

Apart from the dimming of light, something I have yet to find a paper on is the use of a polarizer not in front of the optical train, but in my glasses. The biggest difference between film/sensors and our eyes is HDR (high dynamic range) is unmatched by image capture systems. Our eyes (brains actually, eyes are just lenses) can see a far wider dynamic range than able to capture, so losing the couple stops makes things worse for film or sensors. (Dynamic range is ability to see detail in shadows and bright light at the same time.) I do have an aperture for one of my scopes, have yet to play with it, but this may be an added column for some testing. It will all be anecdotal, of course. My eyes, my vision, but will try to remember to bring my light meter (or a couple of them) to get some baseline numbers that could be repeated if required.
 
Lot of information in the post. But all that aside, at this point I see 6mm bullet holes at 400 and 500 yards much better with glasses off. All I am concerned with.
I have been struggling to see 6mm bullet holes at even 300. Sometimes I could see them. Most times I could not. Granted, where I shoot the backers have lots of holes from previous shooting and the light often comes from the back side of the targets in the morning when we shoot.

Last week I went to the match and about halfway there I realized I would not be able to shoot that day, side effects from treatment but I went to the range anyway. I had brought a new (to me) spotting scope and wanted a chance to try it out.

It had been set up for digiscoping and still had the adaptor on it and I had removed and forgotten to bring the rubber eyecup. Anyway, I tried scoping with glasses on and for some reason tried without my glasses and could see much better.

The spotting scope is a Kowa 884 with a 25-60X eyepiece and the scope on the rifle(s) I had been using are Leupold Competition 45X45's.

I am going to try shooting without my glasses next time.
 
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I get everything that you are saying. About HDR. We have a new Sony TV at the house and it has HDR. So far, big deal, I hear you saying. We also like to watch football, and Amazon has Thursday Night Football on Amazon Prime. The bastards shoot it in 4K, WITH HDR. When we watch the TNF game on TV, the image is astounding. I'm just looking forward to more programming and streaming in HDR.

As for light reduction, everything counts in a riflescope. It does not add to the light.
 
I have been struggling to see 6mm bullet holes at even 300. Sometimes I could see them. Most times I could not. Granted, where I shoot the backers have lots of holes from previous shooting and the light often comes from the back side of the targets in the morning when we shoot.

Last week I went to the match and about halfway there I realized I would not be able toshoot that day, side effects from treatment but I went to the range anyway. I had brought a new (to me) spotting scope and wanted a chance to try it out.

It had been set up for digiscoping and still had the adaptor on it and I had forgotten to bring the rubber removed the rubber eyecup. Anyway, I tried scoping with glasses on and for some reason tried without my glasses and could see much better.

The spotting scope is a Kowa 884 with a 25-60X eyepiece and the scope on the rifle(s) I had been using are Leupold Competition 45X45's.
Kowas are the best spotters. I also have the 88X with the exact same eyepiece. It's extremely nice. I went ahead and got the new TE-80XW extreme wide-angle eyepiece and the IQ is breathtaking.
 
My draw to them is that my eyes are very sensitive to light from recurrent corneal erosion syndrome. Allegedly, they are brighter in low-light situations.
By all means, protect your eyes from the harsh light. I think there's a lot to like in those glasses. Let us know how they work out for you.
 
By all means, protect your eyes from the harsh light. I think there's a lot to like in those glasses. Let us know how they work out for you.
I'm strongly considering a pair of them. They are quite expensive so its a lot to think about. I'm getting my shooting eye fixed next month, so I will see if I need any correction afterward before I buy anything new.
 
I had transition lenses at one point for my every day glasses, I did not like them for shooting. I do prefer my high contrast bronze tinted shooting glasses though. I try to avoid gray tint with shooting glasses, gray is used as a Neutral Density (ND) filter that only darkens the image but leaves color rendition and contrast the same, just darker and harder to see. If I'm going to shade my vision, I want something in return. Contrast helps a lot.

When it comes down to protecting your eyes, don't discount the shape of the glasses. Sure those aviators may look great and get the missus all hot and bothered when you wear them, but the large open areas on the sides allow a lot of stray light in and why you see so many with blinders on the temples. Wrap around style sport glasses cover and protect your eyes from that awful mid morning sun coming over your shoulder and reflecting off the inside of your lenses.
 
All I know is nothing is worth losing an eye when there is a kaboom. Degraded image quality or not, its not worth it. If you never had a kaboom or a gun spit debri in your face yet, keep shooting, you will. It might be from the person next to you too. I think I will look into some of these trivex glasses next time I'm due for new ones.
 
I will state again; coatings do nothing to correct CA. In optical terms, coatings only to control the reflection of light at the air/glass boundary, and they can reduce glare or ghost images (all products of reflectivity.) The do not imp[act or affect CA in any way, shape, or form.

There are also coatings to make the glass more scratch resistant, repel water, mud and dust and make coffee. But coatings don't do CA.
Hey I just ordered a pair and the coffee add on is no longer listed, FYI. lol
 
This is interesting. I got into competitive shooting a year ago and initially thought I preferred no glasses.
One problem is all the ranges I go to require eye protection to be worn. My vision issue is that
after about 3 targets I get some blurriness. With my prescription lenses I seem to get less bluriness.
I wonder if the trivec lenses would help me?
 
This is interesting. I got into competitive shooting a year ago and initially thought I preferred no glasses.
One problem is all the ranges I go to require eye protection to be worn. My vision issue is that
after about 3 targets I get some blurriness. With my prescription lenses I seem to get less bluriness.
I wonder if the trivec lenses would help me?
That could be fatigue. Poor breathing habits can cause "gray-out" like holding your breath before taking a shot due to lack of oxygen. A problem I have dealt with is my eyes cross when I try to look at something close and have to (subconsciously) pull them back to focus. It causes blurred vision after a long time and headaches.
 
Maybe bottled Oxygen then? What about keeping Both eyes open? I see some guys wearing a have that has blinders on it so one or the other eye can remain open. Anyone know about this method?
 
Maybe bottled Oxygen then? What about keeping Both eyes open? I see some guys wearing a have that has blinders on it so one or the other eye can remain open. Anyone know about this method?
I have been shooting XC, LR and F-class and USPSA for over 30 years. Before cataract surgery (and lens implants) my uncorrected vision was 20/400. So naturally I chose competitive shooting with iron sights in XC. Had to shoot Match rifle, couldn't see the front post clearly on a Service rifle at all for 600, which was a shame because that meant I could never try for Distinguished or President's 100. (Nowadays they let you use a 4.5X scope on a SR? Heresy!) LR sling with irons was especially tough for me and I had a bunch of shooting glasses and aids. Scopes were like a vacation compared to irons.

BUT with LR and F-class I have always used an Occluder over my non dominant eye. If you keep both eyes open and relaxed your eye fatigue will be minimized. I had a collection of Occulders and now use an old "Palmateer" hat with a velcro patch that can be adjusted.

For new shooters (rifle and pistol) we used a small piece of foggy clear scotch tape applied to the bottom half of the non dominant lens (eye pro or prescription). This trains the dominant eye to "take over" the sighting task. Always helpful to dry fire with this setup.

Most of you already know this stuff but wanted to share in case others didn't. Denys, thanks for the sharing details re: Trivex. I'll be looking into that for my next new prescription.
 
The eye needs both oxygen and water. I never could understand the folks who held their breath while shooting, sometimes for many seconds before pressing the trigger. I do it differently.

But another important facet is water. If you do not drink water at a match, your vision will suffer. It's a real pain for old geezers like me who only seem to be borrowing the water, but it's important and I visit the facilities before my relay, and drink a lot of water now.
 

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