Well, since I had my eyes checked last week it seems it's time for a new prescription. I started researching on line, and with the help of a Shooter via e-mail who also happens to be an optician. He gave me some sound advice so this afternoon armed with a hand-full of facts and figures I went back to my local optician. He concurred with everything the fellow shooter/optician suggested so I placed my order. I am hoping that this kind fellow will do an article or Blog for this site with some recommendations.
Here's some of what I found out:
For shooting where a shatterproof material is a must you basically have only two choices. Polycarbonate, or Trivex made by PPG. Most optical shops will tell you Poly, because that's what they sell the most of. This would be OK however when we start looking at what is the best optic material we are confounded with a problem. Glass is the best, with an ABBE number of about 58,the measurement of chromatic aberration, higher being better) unfortunately glass's two biggest problems are weight,,glass has a Specific Gravity number of about 2.50,here the higher number the more weight) and worse yet glass shatters. Have a case let go at 60,000PSI and you could lose an eye, or worse.
Polycarbonate being very strong and shatter resistant unfortunately only has an ABBE number of 30. Not the best optically especially when you are looking off axis. Poly however, is much lighter with a Specific Gravity number of about 1.20.
So that leaves PPG Trivex. Trivex is nearly as strong as Poly and is much better optically with a ABBE number of about 45 and a lighter Specific Gravity of 1.11. Very light but strong.
It was also suggested to me to go with a GOOD, AND IT WAS EMPHASIZED TO ME GOOD anti-reflective coating which I did. I also included the "Transitions" photocromatic coating to eliminate the need for extra sunglasses. However, Transitions I was told may not turn dark enough within an automobile to be useful as sunglasses since most auto windshields are tinted to block the UV rays that trigger the Transitions.
I did all this in a no line bifocal which was a compromise in itself since one focal plane for shooting might be a better bet, but then again you're buying two pairs of glasses. Same thing goes for having your prescription ground to be off center axis for looking through the scope. You'd need to go with a shooting specific pair of glasses, and another pair for your everyday life. Can get expensive real fast if you're not careful.
As it was told to me, as far as eyeglasses are concerned "Everything in optics is a trade-off...there is NO perfect answer".
Pick a good licensed Optician that is familiar with ALL the options available to you, do not deal with a "frame stylist" unless being trendy or pretty is your only goal. Another quote, "Good Opticians, like good Gunsmiths are not cheap in the short run, but always cheaper long term".
Remember, you only have one pair of eyes, so protecting them must be the first priority,remember the trade offs), otherwise you are playing "Russian Roulette" every time you pull that trigger.
Danny
Here's some of what I found out:
For shooting where a shatterproof material is a must you basically have only two choices. Polycarbonate, or Trivex made by PPG. Most optical shops will tell you Poly, because that's what they sell the most of. This would be OK however when we start looking at what is the best optic material we are confounded with a problem. Glass is the best, with an ABBE number of about 58,the measurement of chromatic aberration, higher being better) unfortunately glass's two biggest problems are weight,,glass has a Specific Gravity number of about 2.50,here the higher number the more weight) and worse yet glass shatters. Have a case let go at 60,000PSI and you could lose an eye, or worse.
Polycarbonate being very strong and shatter resistant unfortunately only has an ABBE number of 30. Not the best optically especially when you are looking off axis. Poly however, is much lighter with a Specific Gravity number of about 1.20.
So that leaves PPG Trivex. Trivex is nearly as strong as Poly and is much better optically with a ABBE number of about 45 and a lighter Specific Gravity of 1.11. Very light but strong.
It was also suggested to me to go with a GOOD, AND IT WAS EMPHASIZED TO ME GOOD anti-reflective coating which I did. I also included the "Transitions" photocromatic coating to eliminate the need for extra sunglasses. However, Transitions I was told may not turn dark enough within an automobile to be useful as sunglasses since most auto windshields are tinted to block the UV rays that trigger the Transitions.
I did all this in a no line bifocal which was a compromise in itself since one focal plane for shooting might be a better bet, but then again you're buying two pairs of glasses. Same thing goes for having your prescription ground to be off center axis for looking through the scope. You'd need to go with a shooting specific pair of glasses, and another pair for your everyday life. Can get expensive real fast if you're not careful.
As it was told to me, as far as eyeglasses are concerned "Everything in optics is a trade-off...there is NO perfect answer".
Pick a good licensed Optician that is familiar with ALL the options available to you, do not deal with a "frame stylist" unless being trendy or pretty is your only goal. Another quote, "Good Opticians, like good Gunsmiths are not cheap in the short run, but always cheaper long term".
Remember, you only have one pair of eyes, so protecting them must be the first priority,remember the trade offs), otherwise you are playing "Russian Roulette" every time you pull that trigger.
Danny
