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Savage Barrel Removal

Mike in Oregon

Gold $$ Contributor
Okay, I know it's supposedly easy, but I have never done it. I'm planning to remove barrels and triggers from two Savage Model 12's and want to hear from you who have done this. I'll be ordering the tools from James from NSS asap to get the job done.
 
If there factory installed barrels, order new barrel nuts. I have removed a few factory barrels and ended using a monkey wrench. Sometimes they leave behind something from manufacturing or a different type of thread locker (small steel balls). I no that sounds odd but I have seen it a few times. Make sure the action is secured very well to. You could try some heat but be careful. It's doable though. Just curious where are you located?
 
If there factory installed barrels, order new barrel nuts. I have removed a few factory barrels and ended using a monkey wrench. Sometimes they leave behind something from manufacturing or a different type of thread locker (small steel balls). I no that sounds odd but I have seen it a few times. Make sure the action is secured very well to. You could try some heat but be careful. It's doable though. Just curious where are you located?
They are factory barrels and new nuts will be used when Pac-Nor re-barrels. I'm just trying to simplify shipping. I'm in Oregon.
 
Get a good 4 bolt barrel vise and a 4-5lb dead blow hammer. A good Savage nut wrench, both large and small shank works the best. Bolt the vise down solidly and wrap the barrel with a piece of paper to protect it, tighten it up and give a hit, CCW to loosen, done, reverse to install the new one.
Mikey
 
When you get the barrel off just have a once fired brass not resized or go and no-go gauge . And adj the barrel with the gauges . I adj mine a little tight with the go gauge and when you tighten the barrel nut everything should be good to go ..
 
When you get the barrel off just have a once fired brass not resized or go and no-go gauge . And adj the barrel with the gauges . I adj mine a little tight with the go gauge and when you tighten the barrel nut everything should be good to go ..
Pac-Nor will be doing the truing and fitting.
 
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I have and use the Wheeler barrel vise and wrench.

Barrel vise go into a sturdy bench vise.
Don't forget to slide the nut wrench on the barrel first!!
Slide barrel into vise and tighten.
Some rosin helps out at times too.
I use a 3lb steel hammer.
Make sure you're going in the right direction!
Couple of whacks, and it should be loose.

You may need to stick the end of a wrench or something in the action to turn it.
Especially if the freaking shot blast is in the threads!
I purchased a specialty tool to chase the threads and clean them up.
 
I have and use the Wheeler barrel vise and wrench.

Barrel vise go into a sturdy bench vise.
Don't forget to slide the nut wrench on the barrel first!!
Slide barrel into vise and tighten.
Some rosin helps out at times too.
I use a 3lb steel hammer.
Make sure you're going in the right direction!
Couple of whacks, and it should be loose.

You may need to stick the end of a wrench or something in the action to turn it.
Especially if the freaking shot blast is in the threads!
I purchased a specialty tool to chase the threads and clean them up.
Leaning towards NSS products. I'll swing over and have a look at Wheeler. Thx.
 
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The last one I took off had the smooth factory nut and it stuck on the barrel after I removed it from the action. I had to heat it up to get the thread locker to release and it also has blasting media in the threads. Remember to recheck the headspace after tightening the nut as it can change.
You will be surprised how easy it is to set your own barrels !
 
Is the round barrel nut?
Taken quite a few factory installed barrels off never a problem. Never needed a ‘monkey’ wrench. I assume he means a pipe wrench. I don’t know about the round new barrel nut except it’s ridiculous.
I’ve used though the action barrel wrench
( same as 700 Remington) also the barrel style. I use no backwoods gypsy mysticism. Well mounted bench vise. Every move be it barrel nut or barrel should be a quick violent jerk. Never a slow pull. Which is why every thing must be securely mounted. There are three style barrel nuts.
One has the size for two styles ((one on each end) the round (new) style has its own. Couple of things. I’d trash the round nut as it’s just a pain. If your taking a barrel off that the action has a picatinny rail on I be sure to remove the screw closest to the muzzle as that’s a through hole and the wrong screw installed (common) is into the barrel threads. Biggest thing is everything secure and quick fast hard jerks to break things loose. Installation is simple.
Now I’ll argue with no one on the following but you do what you want of course. Anti-seize on the barrel threads. 40-60 ft lbs torque barrel nut .Remembering that that number has the proper torque reduction for a lubricated thread.( which anti- size as well as spit is)
 
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Have not taken off Savage barrels but have Remages. Same thing basically. As said put it in 4 bolt vise but put some leather in between the barrel and vise to eliminate scuffing. Use a heat gun on the barrel not much on the action. Before you do all this put the barreled action muzzle down and squirt some Kroil oil in the threads so it can soak in there. I did this for about 2 weeks then put it in the vise with a heat gun and didn’t have to use a cheater bar. It’s not hard, go on UTube and watch videos. It’s a lot easier than you think. This was with Kroil on a factory REM 700.
 

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