Butches bore shine

[Rob01]

Duh....read what you quoted.

You'll win whatever argument you are having, because you are arguing with yourself.....

Or, fight with your cat.

Put the bottle down before posting again.

 

[D Coots]

Whatever is in the bottle pales in comparison to the drugs people take to completely take away their reading comprehension......and then being pissed about it.

 

[Rob01]

Whatever is in the bottle pales in comparison to the drugs people take to completely take away their reading comprehension......and then being pissed about it.

Must be the same ones as people quoting old posts to say stupid things and then doubling down on being stupid. lol Keep at it! You are only making yourself look stupid. You made some dumb comment that had no sense to my post and thought you were being clever. You weren’t. lol

 

[AlNyhus]

I've been a Butch's user since it came out and continue to use it.

Dave's point about time spent cleaning is an important one for many competitive shooters. Even just cleaning between yardages, time gets pretty tight when you're shooting two yardages per day. At the yardage change, you're resetting wind flags, adding more flags between 100 and 200, reloading, grabbing a quick bite, etc. That's just the reality of competition....time is the enemy.

Recently, Randy Robinett encouraged me to try the Accelerator/Wipe Out foam approach with no brushing. Using two patches of Accelerator followed by Wipe Out foam for between yardage cleaning, in 15 minutes the barrels are clean with no brushing. At the end of the day, I clean them using the same method and follow up with some Hoppe's #9 in bore for protection and mild cleaning. When pushing out the Hoppe's at home a day or three later, there might be the slightest of smudges on the patch, if anything. Barrels are a Bartlien twisted 1:17 and a PacNor twisted 1:18. By my Hawkeye borescope, the Accelerator/Wipe Out foam combo works on carbon better than anything chemical I've ever tried.

For what it's worth.....

Good shootin' -Al

 

[fatelvis]

Thorroclean is from Iosso and does contain abrasives. I called and talked with them about it and they stated that the abrasives are very mild and break down very quickly. When I asked if it would increase throat erosion they said absolutely not and can be used as your regular cleaning solution. I trust Iosso and Thorroclean is pretty much all I use now. I have clean, happy barrels.
I wish more people would speak with the manufacturers to get information. They are usually very happy that someone is interested enough to call and provide lots of useful information.

Rick, I’m glad your barrels are clean and happy, but you’ve GOT to take care of that bug problem you’ve got!

 

[ISS]

you guys...! All this "my dog's bigger than your dog...".

Reminds me of the different six man teams in RVN talking about whose' recon records are the best my third tour in Danang.

 

[JEFFPPC]

I see, there are a lot, no make that a huge, amount of barrels out there with hard carbon and copper in them. Don't need a borescope, just read any and all cleaning threads. On the other hand is squeaky clean needed, probably not.

 

[JEFFPPC]

So in for a penny in for a pound.
A...Any thing beyond Hoppes.......No gain.
B...Nylon brushes about as effective as qtips.
C...Sweets is necessary along with a mild abrasive.
D... Bronze brush, optional but limited.

 

[BoydAllen]

So in for a penny in for a pound.
A...Any thing beyond Hoppes.......No gain.
B...Nylon brushes about as effective as qtips.
C...Sweets is necessary along with a mild abrasive.
D... Bronze brush, optional but limited.

Years ago, in PS magazine, back before it was in color, someone wrote about adding about 25% Kroil to Hoppes. I tried it and it improved performance removing powder fouling, That was back when I was using two solvents to clean, one for powder, the other for jacket fouling. These days I patch and brush with Butch's and deal with the hard carbon with a patch on a nylon brush (not a hard one) with Thorroclean and Thorroflush on a patch, just in the areas where I see hard carbon.

 

[JEFFPPC]

Years ago, in PS magazine, back before it was in color, someone wrote about adding about 25% Kroil to Hoppes. I tried it and it improved performance removing powder fouling, That was back when I was using two solvents to clean, one for powder, the other for jacket fouling. These days I patch and brush with Butch's and deal with the hard carbon with a patch on a nylon brush (not a hard one) with Thorroclean and Thorroflush on a patch, just in the areas where I see hard carbon.

I squirt some Kroil in the Hoppes sometimes, can't really see a difference. I have tried Kroil by itself, pretty disappointing.

 

[JEFFPPC]

Stainless rod with aluminum jag, when you think you got it.....patch some Sweets in for 8 to 10 hrs, no as NO, blue your good. Now someone please tell me how it will be a smoothbore because your third cousins neigbor saw it on the internet. DO NOT let any ammonia solvent dry in the bore. It Can, not will, in some cases form ammonia salt which is not a good thing.

 

[precision1]

Posted my opinion already on subject but definitely know shooters choice mc#7 is slightly stronger and faster cleaner.very comparible to butches but shooters choice wins hands down if your determined to use old school solvents

 

[Kiwishooter]

Is there any difference between the old Butches Boreshine and the newer production from Lyman?

Some cleaning solvents seem to change over time.

 

[AlNyhus]

Is there any difference between the old Butches Boreshine and the newer production from Lyman?

Some cleaning solvents seem to change over time.

I'm somewhat hesitant to say this but here goes.

The original formula works markedly faster and more effectively than the 'Lyman' version. I have both and have back to backed them several times.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[JEFFPPC]

So in spite of what I do, and read others do I think none of the products do what we would like or think they should do. Only one close in my mind is Sweets for copper. Yes maybe some of the solvents are a tiny bit better than others but to me they are all lacking as carbon cleaners. Abrasives work but do thsy bring on other problems, that is the question.

 

[Link]

So in spite of what I do, and read others do I think none of the products do what we would like or think they should do. Only one close in my mind is Sweets for copper. Yes maybe some of the solvents are a tiny bit better than others but to me they are all lacking as carbon cleaners. Abrasives work but do thsy bring on other problems, that is the question.

Another kan of worms;] - how often to use your fav abrasive. My smith [who shoots verry well] uses abrasives every 150 rounds. Then a friend uses it after every shoot to get that mirror finish.

 

[jelenko]

how often to use your fav abrasive

I think it depends on what you use the rifle for. E.g., SRBR, LRBR, PRS, XTC, gdogging, hunting, plinking, or just personally looking for small groups.

 

[bsekf]

Snake Oil???? Anybody try these?
1 part household ammonia and 2+ parts Dash liquid detergent
Irrigate barrel for 1-2-hours and scrub, then clean well and lubricate
or
one part ATF and one part acetone

 

[demarpaint1]

Has anyone tried Gibbs oil for removing carbon?

 

[jelenko]

In my experience, as JEFFPPC mentioned, the best liquid solvents will do is get the loose carbon out - some a little better than others. That black, hard stuff that's left in the throat after using a solvent isn't moving without an abrasive.
Note: Using a bronze brush with the solvent always gets out more carbon than not using a bronze brush.

Some do report that getting a solvent in the barrel just after shooting will keep it clean. I tried that but it didn't make any visible difference [i.e., observed with a borescope]