Anybody ever had a Powder Explosion?

[DLT]

Bubbles on bottom of the same side thats melted/ blown out

 

[DLT]

Lot#??
I got a few pounds of this

I did take a picture and post it on down the thread for you guys

 

[6MMsteve]

A member on here suggested using wrapping plastic tripled layers, taking the lid off the powder canister laying the wrap on cannister then put the lid back on, this I did that day a couple yrs ago, it is a very tight seal had to do a bunch of cannisters but I give up on the original seal for safety sake...

 

[DLT]

A member on here suggested using wrapping plastic tripled layers, taking the lid off the powder canister laying the wrap on cannister then put the lid back on, this I did that day a couple yrs ago, it is a very tight seal had to do a bunch of cannisters but I give up on the original seal for safety sake...

I have thought about that numerous times just being me didn’t think I would ever have a problem. The more I read seems like at least some of the enduron line does have an issue.

 

[Phillip Crowe]

I just checked all my old powder bottles. All seemed fine except for a probably 20 yr old bottle of N133. It had a very strong odor. Could see an orangeish color on the inside of the bottle and the inside of the cap. Poured the powder out, it looked fine. It's outside now, I'll burn it tomorrow. It had been stored properly.

 

[Murray Brook]

I can remember reading of an incident a few years ago ( not sure what site) where powder had spontaneously combusted. If I remember correctly the poster had said that he was checking his powder bottles and found one to be much hotter than the rest. He isolated the container and it later combusted. Since reading this I regularly check the temp of my powder bottles.

 

[J_idaho]

I have followed this site a long time and I have read many posts on old powder going bad. If I recall correctly powder going bad begins to turn into a type of Nitro Glycerin this is very unstable. Guys I could be very wrong on this but I do recall reading this. Some one bail me out on the details of this.

I’ve heard that about dynamite which is probably same thing.

 

[DLT]

I just checked all my old powder bottles. All seemed fine except for a probably 20 yr old bottle of N133. It had a very strong odor. Could see an orangeish color on the inside of the bottle and the inside of the cap. Poured the powder out, it looked fine. It's outside now, I'll burn it tomorrow. It had been stored properly.

Yea Im going to recommend you burn it

 

[K22]

Sounds like "spontaneous combustion"? I have a friend who has just about every smokeless powder made nowadays, in large and small quantities in his gigantic reloading room. Thousands upon thousands of primers too. Scares the heck out of me to see it. It's like he has his own MidwayUSA! I suspect that his insurance company would deny a fire claim if, God forbid, the place ever caught fire.

PA had and I assume still does a law on the amount of powder allowed in a civilian home. If my memory is correct, it was 10 lbs. Please chime in with any correction if you have current info.

 

[jelenko]

This topic got me to wondering about what causes gunpowder to go bad/decay.

Found this article at Powder Valley. This passage caught my eye:

Exposing gunpowder to oxygen sets off a chemical process that causes the ingredients to separate.​

While I've had a few containers that I had opened [and, of course, kept closed when not using] for over 10 years without an issue, going forward I'm going to use the idea of several layers of plastic wrap for the jugs that have been opened.

 

[243winxb]

exploded

Heat not good. My IMR4895 ate the metal can. Move all powders to plastic HDPE . An 8 pound container is more likey to catch fire, then a 1 pound. Starts in the center.

 

[fgw_in_fla]

Well this thread sure made me stand up and take note. After reading it last night, I hot footed out to the shop to check the 8133 and 7977 I have.
The partial can of 7977 smelled a little "off".
Not quite acidy or acrid but it just didn't smell right.
Compared it to a fresh, unopened can and there was a noticeable difference. I'll have to dispose of the partial can and keep an eyeball on the others.

More info: I just cracked open (another) new can of 7977 bought back in 2016. The fumes that came out of the can almost stopped breathing. Very acidic odor came from the can.
This stuff has me concerned. I just pulled all 8 lbs of enduron powder out of the shop.
I don't need any "middle of the night " surprises.

 

[fgw_in_fla]

The lot numbers of the 2 cans that have that horrid smell that can't get out of my schnoz now....

 

[MislMan]

Could someone with good computer skills send a link to this post to the manufacturer. I think they would be very interested to see this and the discussions and here-say concerning these products. I don’t use any of the powders named, are they ball-type or stick?

 

[KMart]

Heat not good. My IMR4895 ate the metal can. Move all powders to plastic HDPE . An 8 pound container is more likey to catch fire, then a 1 pound. Starts in the center.View attachment 1557157View attachment 1557160

I had a can of IMR 4320 years ago, that degraded in the same fashion.

 

[Wild Bill IV]

I always heard that you should check your powder containers from time to time to check for a change in color or smell. As smokeless powder breaks down, it releases nitrous and nitric acids which accounts for the change in color and smell. Some of the additives in certain powders are the cause of the deterioration. Flash reducers, in particular, are very corrosive and can lead to premature breakdown of the powder.

You are on something!!! If it breaks down into a nitrous acid, it is a somewhat corrosive, but nitric acid is very corrosive and reactive!!! Infact, 18 carrot gold (75% pure) added to the nitric acid will dissolve it!!! Precipitate the solution and decant off the fluids! What's left is called gold mud!!! Dehydrate the mud, heat the crusted mud in a crucible and you now have 24 karat gold (99.99% pure)!!! I'm illustrating the high acidic value (PH) of nitric acid!!!! Most IMR powders are single based (n-factor nitrocellulose)

Now, in chemistry you add acid to water very slowly while stirring with a glass rod to decrease the PH making the water more acidic!! NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID!!! The reaction can be quite fast and violent and generates HEAT!!! The jug of decomposed powder got just enough water from the rain in it to slowly cause a reaction that slowly released gases, building the pressure and heat inside the container! Which slowly accelerates the acid water reaction which releases more gas and heat generation!! NITROGLYCERIN is the collected precipitation of nitro based acids!!! A slowly building TIME BOMB!!! Nitroglycerin is temperature and pressure (shock) sensitive!! My studies in Thermodynamics (Study of Heat) and P- Chemistry clearly show both the pressure and temperature triggers caused a spontaneous combustion explosion (sudden release of extreme heat and pressure)!!!

I never use a humidifier in my reloading room!!! The humidity stays a constant 25%!! I don't worry about static discharge because I don't use rubber mats or rugs on that bare concrete floor!!! Powder decay or breakdown is caused by water or oils!! Never return left over powder back to the container!!! I put the left over in a glass jar with a sealed lid and add a label with the powder type!!! I can then see if the power chances color!!! If the powder is OK for the next reloading, I use it up first!!! I have 3 IMR 4064, 1 IMR 4895, and 2 IMR 4350 still in the original metal quart cans and the powder is still good after setting around for 30 plus years!!!

After 20 years, I had some reloads where the case mouths were corroded!! Those rounds had contaminated powder through osmosis of water breaking through the bullet/neck boundary!!! Those rounds did show water spots on the undamaged case, from snow or rain from big game hunting and popping pups!!!

 

[KMart]

I have about 5 pounds of 4166. I have checked it looks and smells fine. But due to a recent personal experience with a house fire, I think I will be very cautious and take it out and burn it. Not worth the chance.
Sunday night/Monday morning, 5-13-2024, the home that I grew up in caught fire and is a 100% total loss.
The really hard part is that I lost my only child (son) in the fire. The last 10 or so days have really been rough.

 

[SixFive]

I have about 5 pounds of 4166. I have checked it looks and smells fine. But due to a recent personal experience with a house fire, I think I will be very cautious and take it out and burn it. Not worth the chance.
Sunday night/Monday morning, 5-13-2024, the home that I grew up in caught fire and is a 100% total loss.
The really hard part is that I lost my only child (son) in the fire. The last 10 or so days have really been rough.

OMG! So sorry for your loss. I cannot even imagine....

 

[6MMsteve]

S

I have about 5 pounds of 4166. I have checked it looks and smells fine. But due to a recent personal experience with a house fire, I think I will be very cautious and take it out and burn it. Not worth the chance.
Sunday night/Monday morning, 5-13-2024, the home that I grew up in caught fire and is a 100% total loss.
The really hard part is that I lost my only child (son) in the fire. The last 10 or so days have really been rough.

So sorry for your loss.. Friend

 

[46and2]

You are on something!!! If it breaks down into a nitrous acid, it is a somewhat corrosive, but nitric acid is very corrosive and reactive!!! Infact, 18 carrot gold (75% pure) added to the nitric acid will dissolve it!!! Precipitate the solution and decant off the fluids! What's left is called gold mud!!! Dehydrate the mud, heat the crusted mud in a crucible and you now have 24 karat gold (99.99% pure)!!! I'm illustrating the high acidic value (PH) of nitric acid!!!! Most IMR powders are single based (n-factor nitrocellulose)

Now, in chemistry you add acid to water very slowly while stirring with a glass rod to decrease the PH making the water more acidic!! NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID!!! The reaction can be quite fast and violent and generates HEAT!!! The jug of decomposed powder got just enough water from the rain in it to slowly cause a reaction that slowly released gases, building the pressure and heat inside the container! Which slowly accelerates the acid water reaction which releases more gas and heat generation!! NITROGLYCERIN is the collected precipitation of nitro based acids!!! A slowly building TIME BOMB!!! Nitroglycerin is temperature and pressure (shock) sensitive!! My studies in Thermodynamics (Study of Heat) and P- Chemistry clearly show both the pressure and temperature triggers caused a spontaneous combustion explosion (sudden release of extreme heat and pressure)!!!

I never use a humidifier in my reloading room!!! The humidity stays a constant 25%!! I don't worry about static discharge because I don't use rubber mats or rugs on that bare concrete floor!!! Powder decay or breakdown is caused by water or oils!! Never return left over powder back to the container!!! I put the left over in a glass jar with a sealed lid and add a label with the powder type!!! I can then see if the power chances color!!! If the powder is OK for the next reloading, I use it up first!!! I have 3 IMR 4064, 1 IMR 4895, and 2 IMR 4350 still in the original metal quart cans and the powder is still good after setting around for 30 plus years!!!

After 20 years, I had some reloads where the case mouths were corroded!! Those rounds had contained powder through osmosis of water breaking through the bullet/neck boundary!!! Those rounds did show water spots on the undamaged case, from snow or rain!!!

Thank you for this information. Reloaders can propagate misinformation quickly.

I keep my powders in complete environmental control, between 25 to 45 % humidity. My 8lb containers are dispersed into one lb containers for use and never poured back into the 8lb jug.

I frequently scan my powders with a laser thermometer for consistency. I'm not sure if this will give me an early indication of powder deterioration.?

I just checked my Enduron IMR powders for smell and visual conformation, they all are perfectly fine.