On beam scales part two

[sparker]

Coming Tuesday, a matched pair of Ohaus 10-0-5s tuned, matching calibrations and interchangeable pans! I’ll post a link here as soon as I list them.

 

[Murray Brook]

@sparker
Scott is there any place to purchase beam bearings for a Lyman M5. TKS

 

[sparker]

Send me your address, I likely have a set I can send you

 

[Murray Brook]

Send me your address, I likely have a set I can send you

Thank you. I will PM you. TKS

 

[Murray Brook]

@sparker PM sent

 

[Murray Brook]

@sparker
Did you receive my PM.

 

[LCazador]

@sparker
Did you receive my PM.

Scott is a great guy but not the fastest! Family and life first kind of guy! He did a scale for me, great piece of work. Great pieces of work can't be rushed!

 

[sparker]

Yes, I’ll have the bearings out to you Monday.

 

[Murray Brook]

Yes, I’ll have the bearings out to you Monday.

Thank you ever so much. Let me know how to fix up with you.

 

[sparker]

Here’s the listing for the pair of 10-0-5 scales.

SELLING - A pair of Scott Parker Matched 10-0-5 scales

Two Ohaus 10-0-5 scales from mid 1960s. Both In box, in excellent to mint condition. Fully tuned, calibrations have been matched, pans are completely interchangeable between the two scales. Perfect for father and son, or two good shooting buddies. $550 shipped VLD223@yahoo.com 6613641199

forum.accurateshooter.com

 

[Overdrawn]

If you're prepared to have ago (and take the risk that it may never work again) and if you succeed it will be a satisfying experience and worth the effort.
I'm not an expert 304 mechanic by any means, these scales have always been a bit exotic and quite a rare beast, especially on my side of the pond, any information here is given in good faith but you must pick and choose what, if any you may find helpful.
Because all the workings of these scales are hidden out of sight, they are often badly neglected, full of dust spiders etc.

1) Remove the dial, it's held on by a small grub hex grubscrew. This might be your first problem; you need to remove the screw completely and the dial should slide off the brass shaft. In reality they are sometimes a devil of a job to get off due to corrosion.

https://imgur.com/OMMjgoc

2) Remove the outer dust cover, it's slides up to reveal the bearing, knife edge and lose endplate.

https://imgur.com/SMr5QUM

3) Remove the spring attachment plate from the beam, leaving it attached to the spring.

https://imgur.com/xAEStah

4) The whole dial/spring assembly can now be removed. There are two Allen bolts holding the dial assembly in position.
One bolt can be seen in this picture, unfortunately the other is under the dial (Hense step 1)

https://imgur.com/8J52QjT

5) You can now remove the inner dust cover and lift out the beam. The knife edges are held in place by a grub screw, but the knife edges are usually a tight fit and must be pressed out.

https://imgur.com/T4Y7It9

6) Clean up the knife edges, checking with an eyeglass for dull spots. Don't forget there are two knife edges, the second one is for the pan hanger - it's exactly the same as the main knife edge.
The pan hanger also has its own agate bearings too.
https://i.imgur.com/m2GLxfA.png

7) The agate bearings rarely give any trouble. One unusual thing I have found is that the main bearings look as if they should be free floating, they sit on little pillars like they do in regular reloading scales but every one of the 304 type scales I've come across, either one or both of the bearings have been fixed by some sort of shellac compound.
https://i.imgur.com/a5WIkHJ.png

8) A good clean up all round and put it back together. Because you have left the spring attachment still fixed to the spring, it should go back in the right place with no worries. Once all assembled set everything to zero, replace the dial but don't tighten the grub screw. If everything is balanced at zero, you now just need the dial to read zero too. Use a set of grain checkweights to confirm everything is working as it should.
https://i.imgur.com/uyXVhJN.png

Then sit back - enjoy a single malt while you contemplate on an afternoon well spent.

If you're prepared to have ago (and take the risk that it may never work again) and if you succeed it will be a satisfying experience and worth the effort.
I'm not an expert 304 mechanic by any means, these scales have always been a bit exotic and quite a rare beast, especially on my side of the pond, any information here is given in good faith but you must pick and choose what, if any you may find helpful.
Because all the workings of these scales are hidden out of sight, they are often badly neglected, full of dust spiders etc.

1) Remove the dial, it's held on by a small grub hex grubscrew. This might be your first problem; you need to remove the screw completely and the dial should slide off the brass shaft. In reality they are sometimes a devil of a job to get off due to corrosion.


2) Remove the outer dust cover, it's slides up to reveal the bearing, knife edge and lose endplate.


3) Remove the spring attachment plate from the beam, leaving it attached to the spring.


4) The whole dial/spring assembly can now be removed. There are two Allen bolts holding the dial assembly in position.
One bolt can be seen in this picture, unfortunately the other is under the dial (Hense step 1)


5) You can now remove the inner dust cover and lift out the beam. The knife edges are held in place by a grub screw, but the knife edges are usually a tight fit and must be pressed out.


6) Clean up the knife edges, checking with an eyeglass for dull spots. Don't forget there are two knife edges, the second one is for the pan hanger - it's exactly the same as the main knife edge.
The pan hanger also has its own agate bearings too.
https://i.imgur.com/m2GLxfA.png

7) The agate bearings rarely give any trouble. One unusual thing I have found is that the main bearings look as if they should be free floating, they sit on little pillars like they do in regular reloading scales but every one of the 304 type scales I've come across, either one or both of the bearings have been fixed by some sort of shellac compound.
https://i.imgur.com/a5WIkHJ.png

8) A good clean up all round and put it back together. Because you have left the spring attachment still fixed to the spring, it should go back in the right place with no worries. Once all assembled set everything to zero, replace the dial but don't tighten the grub screw. If everything is balanced at zero, you now just need the dial to read zero too. Use a set of grain checkweights to confirm everything is working as it should.
https://i.imgur.com/uyXVhJN.png

Then sit back - enjoy a single malt while you contemplate on an afternoon well spent.

Well I finally got around at having a go cleaning and reconditioning my ohaus 1110 today, i hadn't done anything with the scale since we talked several months ago.

I didn't change the agate bearings, I thought I'd see how the scale would work with just doing the knives first, the knife edges were worn so with the help of you and sparker I managed to take the scale apart, I used a 600 grit hone on the rust and also sharpened the knife so there wasn't any shine glaring off the edges of both knives.

I haven't really tried the scale yet, I did notice there was a still a difference when holding the pan down and when I held it up the beam still doesn't come back the same at zero. But one thing I have to do is adjust the scale since when I put a 10 grain check weight in the pan and do the beam at 10 grains and then do the spring at 10 grains there's about a grain difference between the two. I'm not sure whether I should change the agate bearings, I did notice they are indeed stuck with some kind of adhesive in their slots.

Thanks again for your help,
John

 

[1066]

Well I finally got around at having a go cleaning and reconditioning my ohaus 1110 today, i hadn't done anything with the scale since we talked several months ago.

I didn't change the agate bearings, I thought I'd see how the scale would work with just doing the knives first, the knife edges were worn so with the help of you and sparker I managed to take the scale apart, I used a 600 grit hone on the rust and also sharpened the knife so there wasn't any shine glaring off the edges of both knives.

I haven't really tried the scale yet, I did notice there was a still a difference when holding the pan down and when I held it up the beam still doesn't come back the same at zero. But one thing I have to do is adjust the scale since when I put a 10 grain check weight in the pan and do the beam at 10 grains and then do the spring at 10 grains there's about a grain difference between the two. I'm not sure whether I should change the agate bearings, I did notice they are indeed stuck with some kind of adhesive in their slots.

Thanks again for your help,
John

I'm pleased to see you've had a dig about in there John. It sounds to me that you still have a little friction somewhere, did you disassemble and check the knife edge on the pan hanger suspension?
Also check damper blade and zero pointer is clear of the scale body and no wire wool hairs are stuck to the damping magnets. In my experience, it would be unusual for there to be any problems with the bearings other than mechanical damage or a build-up of 40 years of grime.
If, when all poises and the dial is set to zero. (The dial should come to a hard stop at zero) the pointer should read zero.
If you then place a 10, 20, 30, 40gn checkweight consecutively in the pan and, leaving the spring dial at zero, just use the small sliding poise, they should all zero out.
If you then use the dial to add a further 10gn load and add a another 10 gns to your checkweights in the pan it should again zero on the pointer. If it doesn't, then some adjustment of the spring tension is necessary.
The spring adjustment is reached through the small hole in the top of the spring box, unfortunately it's usually necessary to remove the beam again to take the dust cover off the rear of the spring box to see what you are doing.

 

[Mr. Seven]

@sparker Are the old Hornady Pacific scales worth tuning or particularly accurate?

 

[sparker]

There are no three-poise reloading scales worth using.

 

[Bc'z]

@sparker I appreciate the call and conversation we had yesterday morning.
You mentioned 20 weight oil in the Redding #1
Couple questions
Standard 20 weight, or high milage due to age of scale?
Do I need to change oil every 3 months or 3000 rounds?
Serious questions with a lil humor injected.
Thanks you sir
No I haven't opened it up yet

 

[sparker]

@sparker I appreciate the call and conversation we had yesterday morning.
You mentioned 20 weight oil in the Redding #1
Couple questions
Standard 20 weight, or high milage due to age of scale?
Do I need to change oil every 3 months or 3000 rounds?
Serious questions with a lil humor injected.
Thanks you sir
No I haven't opened it up yet

Standard 20 weight. Look at the surface of the oil in the reservoir occasionally for dust particles on the surface. A Q-tip will remove them easily. An annual oil change is fine but may not be necessary.

Scott

 

[rwj]

There are no three-poise reloading scales worth using.

Reason(s)?

 

[sparker]

Reason(s)?

Whenever you manufacture a poise, some amount of error is incorporated in the poise. I’d much rather have only two sources of error than three.

 

[sparker]

Just finished synching up a pair of 10-05s for a customer, including making the pans interchangeable. The two pics are at zero with two different pans, same scale.

 

[JFrank]

Just finished synching up a pair of 10-05s for a customer, including making the pans interchangeable. The two pics are at zero with two different pans, same scale.

Very nice’
Those should make someone very happy, I’m getting anxious for mine now…

Jim