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Importance of Bedding Around Recoil Lug?

skeeljc

Gold $$ Contributor
I have a Rem 700 in a Magpul Hunter stock. It has an aluminum block that the action sits in. There is a lot of room in front of the recoil lug. When I removed the action I can see two distinct lines where the action has contacted the v-block (two front and two rear).

My question is does the action move forward and back each time it is fired? I doubt the clamping force generated by the action screws is enough to keep it from moving (the coefficient of friction between the aluminum block and the steel action is low). The presence of the contact line on the aluminum block indicates movement.

Do you think bedding just the recoil lug will help with accuracy?
 
Bedding just the recoil lug so the action has a tight fit? Might help, might cause issues. Now bedding under the front and always under the bottom of the action and maybe under the first 1-1.5" of the barrel, along with the recoil lug, can help. Ideally, the bedding job should be stress free so there is no movement between barreled action and stock when the action screws are tightened and loosened.

Many times bedding jobs are done with electrical or duct tape on the front of the recoil lug, especially on Remmys, to make sure the barreled action can be removed from the stock. I don't worry about that on M-70s. Regardless, we want a tight fit on the sides of the lug and the back of the lug when we are trying to minimize movement between the barreled action and the stock.
 
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Sounds like the whole action needs to be bedded but the lug needs to be bedded for sure- the only problem is it must be done right. Letting the lug touch the bottom or front will make it even worse

Good catch, I edited my post. There should always be clearance under the bottom of the recoil lug and I always tape the bottom of the lug to ensure that.
 
I never bed anything on the barrel unless its a very light barrel. Sometime a very light barrel will shoot well if bedded the full length.
 
It really depends on the type of barrel.
A skinny barrel often lends itself to have the entire Knox form (chamber section) of the barrel bedded. This often improves accuracy due to barrel vibration.
On heavy barrels, Sendero style or heavier, I leave free floating from the recoil lug forward, they are stiff enough to start with.
There has been a recent trend in bedding the entire barrel in the fore end, whether this is a good idea or not has not been proven to me...I am yet to even contemplate trying it.
Even with an aluminium bedding block, I skim bed the entire action. I use 2 layers of electrical tape under the recoil lug, 1 layer on the sides if it’s straight sided and none if it is tapered. I also put a layer on the front, just for a little wiggle room when disassembling the rifle from the stock.

Cheers.
 
I bedded two guns where I taped clearances on the bottom, sides and front of the lug. Was that old school and it’s now accepted that only the bottom and front has clearance from the bedding? Those two rifles shot very small.

Im fixin to bed a 40X in a wood stock, always lookin for more information.
 
I bedded two guns where I taped clearances on the bottom, sides and front of the lug. Was that old school and it’s now accepted that only the bottom and front has clearance from the bedding? Those two rifles shot very small.

Im fixin to bed a 40X in a wood stock, always lookin for more information.
You need clearance on the front and bottom to shoot. Clearance on the sides is fine but i bed them to keep from twisting and it doesnt hurt- but the front and bottom touching will.
 
Might be "Old-school" , but I've bedded a couple of HV's a inch and a half in front of the barrel / action joint for support and they shot just fine . Very consistent throughout the full barrel life . Probably better than the operator .
 

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