Importance of Bedding Around Recoil Lug?

[Dusty Stevens]

Might be "Old-school" , but I've bedded a couple of HV's a inch and a half in front of the barrel / action joint for support and they shot just fine . Very consistent throughout the full barrel life . Probably better than the operator .

There wont be an issue except those long strings of fire like an f-class match itll walk off the top of the target

 

[D-4297]

That's where they get shot , Dusty . F-class , TR . 199-13x , 197-9x and 198-11x doesn't sound like to much "walkin" to me .

 

[INTJ]

This one was bedded a little under the chamber.



This one was fully free floated:



That is why we say things like "might help" and "maybe"

 

[skeeljc]

I will re-state my earlier question, What do you use for tape on the bottom and front of the recoil lug?

 

[jonbearman]

When I can I use tapered lugs so it can be tight on the sides with plenty of clearance under it and forward of the lug has to have clearance.

 

[jonbearman]

You don't want the receiver sitting on the recoil lug bottom so to speak. That is why we clearance them , at least that's the way I can explain it and you want clearance on the front so you can remove it from the stock.

 

[243winxb]

Black electricians tape

Tape lug.
Thick and smooth. And a thin coating of petroleum jelly gets applied to it.

Tape front, bottom and sides with 2 thickness or more.

I plug holes with latex putty where i dont want Acraglas to run.

 

[INTJ]

I will re-state my earlier question, What do you use for tape on the bottom and front of the recoil lug?

I am not sure who you are asking, but earlier I had mentioned using both electrical tape or duct tape. I think that is pretty common.

 

[1911nut]

Scotch electric tape sticks pretty good to metal cleaned with brake cleaner.

I found the blue masking tape sticks better but it’s maybe 1/2 the thickness of Scotch 33.

I trim/cut the edges with a razor blade and coat with Kiwi neutral shoe wax.

 

[Lucky Shooter]

How do you treat the recoil lug for a glue in job on a Rem action ?

A. Weldy

 

[Dusty Stevens]

How do you treat the recoil lug for a glue in job on a Rem action ?

A. Weldy

You dont use a lug on a glue in

 

[skeeljc]

When I can I use tapered lugs so it can be tight on the sides with plenty of clearance under it and forward of the lug has to have clearance.

Is one thickness of blue painters tape enough clearance?

 

[Fast14riot]

Is one thickness of blue painters tape enough clearance?

IMO no, it is not. I use Blue painters tape exclusively because I get the 2" wide and don't have the seam where trying to match up more than one piece. I always put two layers on front and bottom of recoil lug (and tang of milsurp rifles) to allow a bit of clearance. I like to use Partal Paste #2 release agent because it sticks very well to the paper backing of painters tape and to metal. I almost never have to knock an action out of a stock with it. Last one I did came out so easy I wondered if the marinetex even set!

 

[skeeljc]

+1 on the blue painters tape. It easier to apply and cut than black vinyl tape. The blue painters tape is .005" thick and the black vinyl tape (Brownells) is .006" thick.

Now for the release compound. Forget Brownells "non flammable (shippable)" release agent. It does not flow or stick like their flammable release agent does. I ended up applying two coats of Kiwi shoe polish, allow each coat to dry, then buff with a paper towel. Then I applied Brownells flammable release agent (the good stuff) over the Kiwi polish.

 

[jpx2rk]

Some good info for a potential first timer, thanks to all for sharing your secrets/methods.

 

[deepwater]

My gunsmith(s) use a slick tape that is available in 1mil, 2 mil 3,mil, 5 mil thickness and various widths. They build up as needed. On synthetic/composit stocks they put tape on the bottom/sides of the barrel through the forearm and bed full length. Upon removal of tape, and painting the stock, a beautiful fit and free floated barrel is the final product.

 

[chop house]

My question is does the action move forward and back each time it is fired?

here is what you don't want to happen.... long story but not too tangential to your question. i have installed whidden v-blocks in a couple of savage stocks, mainly varmint rifles and mainly to facilitate swapping things (bbls and receivers) around. one of these rifles was giving me fits with large point of impact shifts and acted a whole lot like a bedding issue. stupidly, since i put a v-block in it, i looked everywhere else first (load, brass, scope, mount...... blah blah)

for reference, here is the front of the installed v-block:



you can see the two action contact lines you mention. anyway, i was inspecting 'everything' again and got the light just right to see the interference between the front of the front action screw and the front of the slot in the block. thus:



the pillar however, is clear of this interference (thankfully):



so, the action was being (at some point) pinched front and back between the front of the screw and the back of the recoil lug... very similar to if the recoil lug was held captive. indeed, when savage first came out with the 'accustock' they had a wedge that clamped down on the recoil lug, pushing it rearward... BUT quickly ran into accuracy/usability/tuning (?) issues and abandoned that design. the accustock now has clearance in front of the recoil lug.

i am in process of bedding this lug now, and am going to try Dusty's way of capturing the lug side to side and rely less on clamping friction between the action and v-block to keep the action 'upright'...

hth...