Your opinion: Best Carbon Remover

[queen_stick]

damn it Frank! The more I ask you, the more I realize my need for a bore scope... this hobby is fun, but the costs just keep stacking up gotta love it!

I use RL15 exclusively in 1k LG 6br. It just loves shooting that stuff. It's also one of the dirtiest powders I've ever used. I've never used JB on that barrel, and I'm starting to think that's why I had that carbon ring build up on me last week. I have over 500 rounds on that barrel, and the last 300 rounds or so have been with RL15. I guess I'll pull the JB out and hammer the throat a little bit to remove the burned-in carbon. Even though I was able to brush the carbon ring out last week, it sounds like the root cause of the ring is still in there, and needs to be removed with some JB. Just hate going at it blindly

 

[fdshuster]

Walt: Yes, RL15 is one of the powders I avoid using, but did not want to name it, since I know many are using it & like it, and to avoid an argument, I say, if you like it, by all means continue to use it. It is a good powder: I just cannot accept the heavier carbon fouling. Somewhere along the line I had the funds for a new rifle scope, gave it some thought before ordering it, decided on putting that money into the Hawkeye ( same cost), and that started it all. I never really missed not having that particular rifle scope.

 

[lynn]

Danny
We use plain old GM Top Engine cleaner on all of our barrels and it works fine.We clean after each match and after each shooting session.Our matches are the multiple target variety not the 5 shot and go home type and after 80 rounds the barrels are not that bad to begin with.
We use RE15 but we only shoot the top node.Our barrels look like shiny steel with a brown coca-cola stain to them and the GM takes all that out with just a wet patch.
What the bronze brush does is it removes the little puddles or specs of carbon fouling.In our barrels you see a very small puddle for lack of a better word.
If you shake up a can of coke or pepsi and pull the tab near a piece of glass the carbon looks like a little dried up puddle of coke or pepsi and is similar in color to what you would see on the piece of glass.
Lynn

 

[bozo699]

Lynn,
Do you do a general cleaning first then a wet patch of degreaser? exactly what is your cleaning process and do you use a bore scope before and after? Thanks in advance for your time on the subject.
Wayne.

 

[lynn]

Wayne
When the barrel is still hot I put the rod guide in the action and flood the barrel with GM Top Engine Cleaner.After the 3 hour drive home I set my guns in a big aluminum rack that has the barrels at a good downward angle.I put a boreguide in a lightgun and a heavygun and use a liberal amount of GM and run the bronze brush back and forth 5-10 times.I then apply more GM and switch the boreguides to my lightgun and my heavygun and do the same thing all over again.Four guns total.
I then go inside and start putting all my gear away eat a sandwich or get messages off the machine to burn up another hour.
I once again add more GM brush and then dry with 3 patches though each bore.
I then repeat the same process and soak times with 50 BMG Copper Killer and after drying with some patches I am good until practice or the next match.
I ended up going in partnership with a local shooter on a business deal and use his Hawkeye at will but in all honesty if you keep them clean they don't seem to get as dirty as what you might think about as dirty.
I never shoot light loads even in my hunting rifles and fouling has never been an issue.
In my humble opinion most shooters clean the cleaning solvent out of the barrel before it ever gets a chance to work properly.
Lynn

 

[fdshuster]

lynn: The carbon is more difficult to remove if left to sit for a while. I too find it easier to get out if I wet down the bore before leaving the range. This is also evident with the brass case. If I take the time to wipe off the case neck as it comes out of the chamber, the carbon comes right off. If I let the brass sit for a day or so it's much more difficult to remove. In many instances we're all on the same page on this subject.

 

[ridgeway]

lynn: The carbon is more difficult to remove if left to sit for a while. I too find it easier to get out if I wet down the bore before leaving the range. This is also evident with the brass case. If I take the time to wipe off the case neck as it comes out of the chamber, the carbon comes right off. If I let the brass sit for a day or so it's much more difficult to remove. In many instances we're all on the same page on this subject.

I do the same thing when possible.

 

[SS427]

Frank, when you say wet it down, what do you wet it down with? One guy I know used a bore snake to wet it down with Kroil and said they cleaned much easier at home.

I don't do the bore, but I do clean my brass at the bench. Gives the barrels time to cool and they sure do clean easier than if I wait.

 

[lynn]

When I wet my barrels I use one of those Sinclair squirt bottles with the flip open spout and give the barrel a big squirt so its running out the barrel.
Billy Copelin uses a piece of tubing(possibly flexible brake line) on the end of his bottle of the foam cleaner and it works well for him.
I don't work to hard on cleaning like was previously posted but I like clean barrels.To my way of thinking that solvent can do what I do all week(work)and our barrels are always ready for the weekend.If given a chance to work I would guess most of the cleaners out there today do a very good job.
Lynn

 

[Frankr]

i have no bore scope.
my story goes like this. shooting very little 5 shot groups, did i say little...150-.225's(100yrs)lots of em.
well i noticed that a patch was hard to get from the bore guide started up into the bore, i had to fight to get a patch started..very unusal...so i have this stuff i bought(i hate it) never use it..montana copper cream..i bought it thinking it might be a creamy copper remover, well i never found much use for it. its like a thick white liquid but it drys up..so i put some on a patch and fight it into the bore push it through and then another patch of this messy stuff and then work it back and forth,followed up with some JB bore bright(love the JB) and clean that all out, oil bore and a patch will slip from the bore guide to the bore like butter, slips in with no resisentance at all.. so it seems i have found a use for this messy stuff after all..
now i have never run into this before, but say around 1000 round i started to notice having this problem. im thinking my throat may be getting a little rough in there holding the carbon. so thats how it clean it out and im back to shooting but now at 1,600 rounds. seems the problem is consistant and every 25 rounds or so thats the cleaning i have to do.
boy do i wish i could look in there with a bore scope to see whats up.
not to worry i just got two new pac nor SSM barrel's yesterday..i ordered then in feb..

 

[fdshuster]

Otter: I wet the bore with Butch's and time and weather permitting may even give it a few passes with a bronze brush, to help loosen up the fouling. I'll usually take it home wet. Seems the sooner you can get the solvent in there the easier it is to clean. And when I get home if I get involved in something else, do not feel bad about delaying the cleaning. The rifle will be standing in a corner, muzzle down in a small white plastic bottle (Tylanol?) with the top cutoff.

 

[Rustystud]

I have tried a lot of thisngs over the years. For years I use GM Top Engine cleaner (Old formula in the metal can and no longer available) mixed 4:1 with marvil Mystery oil or kroil. I have used carbon Tet mixed with marvil Mystery oil but this is very toxic. For the last couple of years I have used Coleman stove fuel mixed with Marvil Mystery oil. This is very flamable but in combination with a copper solvent routine leaves barrels pretty clean.

I have also used a mixture of acetone and kerosene.

Nat Lambeth

 

[Plugger]

)For some time now I have used 'Sea Foam' brand injector cleaner and seems to do an even better job than the old GM Top Engine cleaner. I then use 'Bore Tech' copper cleaner. They seem to team up well to give me a clean bore.

 

[Joeski]

I sure am liking the foaming bore cleaners lately about four patches and 1 with oil and your done. Then of course 2 dry patches before you shoot it again.

 

[SeabeeKen]

This is an old thread but read it looking for something I had missed in my quest. I've tested (using borescope) most of the bore cleaners out there and here is what I've learned. There is no magical carbon remover. Carbon CANT be dissolved. All that can be done with it is break the bond between the carbon and whatever it is attached to. Many folks confuse powder fouling and carbon. There is a difference. After your favorite bore cleaner removes powder fouling, there is still carbon bonded to the metal and its tough. The bullets of subsequent shots seem to press it onto the metal harder. As several have already said, It can only be removed by abrasive action, PERIOD. JB, Iosso, KG2, Bore Tech Chameleon Gel all have abrasives and will not damage a barrel, in fact, they polish it helping ease the removal of future carbon. Ive found Slip 2000 carbon killer a big help loosening carbon if allowed to soak 30 minutes, even on AR-15 bolts. I also use Kroil before JB and Iosso. I've found nylon brushes useless unless used with the abrasive bore cleaners. Here is a few that I have tried, Bore Tech, Montana Extreme, Froglube, Slip 2000, Mil-Comm, Hoppes, Flitz, Adiga Armory, never dry, Lucas, Eds Red, CRC valve and turbo cleaner, M-pro, Weapon shield, break free, Butches BS, shooters choice, and a number of others. My wife would kill me if she knew how much I've spent testing all this stuff. At the end of it, you will find on my shelf, JB, Iosso, Flitz, KG1 & 2, Bore Tech Eliminator, and Kroil. Dont fall into the CLP trap, it doesnt work and if you think it does try a bore scope and shock yourself. As for oils, I tested those too, many of them and on my shelf is Slip 2000 EWL, EWL 30, and EWG. Thats it. Mill-Comm came in second place in my tests. Sorry if anybody's magic elixir was offended.

 

[T-shooter]

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/thorroclean-bore-cleaning-system.3949315/#post-37194940

 

[rsmithsr50]

sorry but carbon DEPOSITS can be dissolved,
it's been done for decades in the automotive field
and the same products work in gun bbls.
been there, do that

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I do not agree. GM tec will strip a piston to like new, but it will not do the same to the black deposits that are run over by bullets that we call "hard carbon". The best non abrasive solvent for carbon I have ever found is Montana Extreme copper killer. Yes, copper killer for carbon. Plenty of brushing as well. At some point you may still need to break out the jb, but the copper killer has prolonged that point.

 

[Bruce W]

I've been working on my barrel with hard carbon build up on about the first 6 to 8 inches from the chamber. Soaking, bronze brushing, and JB on a patch with a jag. Very frustrating. Chems used: bore tech carbon, and copper products. Kroil, butches and yes even the highly touted GM top engine cleaner. I just tried the Al Nyhus patch on a worn brush with some GM tec . This so far has been the the most promising.It worked also with kroil but the GM seems a little better. Maybe from all the previous scrubbing and soaking it has loosened some. After 3 applications of short stroking the affected area it almost gone.This will be a regular to my cleaning regiment.Yes I have the Lyman bore cam to prove it worked. Thanks to all those experienced folks willing to contribute their knowledge to help out the less informed. Bruce

 

[YEW PLUCKER]

For ONLY carbon? Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrubber works well. Their carb cleaner works just the same (imagine that!)